tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8000191682087974772.post5811653879134905352..comments2024-03-21T08:21:38.675+00:00Comments on mending things: The Thorens TD280 MK IV turntableMr Iveshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14965084993191032538noreply@blogger.comBlogger24125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8000191682087974772.post-66378177904900423302023-03-31T08:59:32.060+01:002023-03-31T08:59:32.060+01:00Thanks Alias_mk, that's interesting. I suspect...Thanks Alias_mk, that's interesting. I suspected that the deck was assembled from the thorens parts bin. I now had a TD321, which was a floating deck and basically a TD320 with no shipped tonearm. I have had problems replacing the belt as not even thakker ones for this model seem to fit, and my example has sintered bearings whereas all docs say this table has conventional brass sleeve bearings. I think the last few years of the old Thorens were probably rather chaotic as CD became the dominant format. I have even seen some Ariston-branded decks with clearly a Thorens arm and "Made in Czechoslovakia (Project?) written on the back.Mr Iveshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14965084993191032538noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8000191682087974772.post-1110139974115469612023-03-31T08:46:16.985+01:002023-03-31T08:46:16.985+01:00280 MK IV was produced in now defunct Unitra compa...280 MK IV was produced in now defunct Unitra company in Lodz, Poland, along with TD 180, which is an extremely junky old Unitra model in a Thorens disguise. Thus the different bearings and also other parts, the same applies for TD 180. They just put in it what they had at hand. <br />In 1993 both Thorens and Untira companies finally bankrupted.alias_mkhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09664113866547846375noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8000191682087974772.post-18671891576856610432019-02-05T18:58:07.543+00:002019-02-05T18:58:07.543+00:00Thanks for that.
Got this too late but found a re...Thanks for that. <br />Got this too late but found a repairer nearby.<br />Switch had rusted but got a replacement and all working ok now.<br />Thanks for your reply <br />Trevor <br />Trevor Stableshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06702414118384061131noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8000191682087974772.post-91102005521573830162018-10-23T21:32:36.738+01:002018-10-23T21:32:36.738+01:00My deepest apologies Trevor, I don't seem to h...My deepest apologies Trevor, I don't seem to have received notifications from blogger about your post, or perhaps the gmail anti spam is too aggressive. Anyway, sorry for the long delay.<br /><br />The switch internally is connected to a circuit board inside. It's possible that something has failed on the board. <br /><br />Finding a good repairer can be different , I use HiFi Hangar in Bordon, but that's a long way. The board is actually easy to replace as all the wires have push connectors, and the boards do come up on ebay , especially in Germany. <br /><br />You'd need to:<br /><br />disconnect from the am and the mains<br />put the arm in its cradle position with the catch on<br />remove the mat, platter and subplatter and belt, and plug some cloth in the bearing hole or some oil will drip out. <br />close the lid and flip the deck so its lying on its lid with the feet in the air, on a soft surface like an old towel<br /><br />There are 4 screws which hold the base board on, easy to remove<br /><br />Inside will be like my picture, the circuit board (the only one) is top held on by 4 screws onto 4 brackets. a number of wires connect to it, worth taking a picture so you know which ones is which.<br /><br />fit the wires to the new board and reverse the above process (as the Haynes manual would say)<br /><br /><br />Now this might sound too complex or expensive , I have seen the boards from £25 -£50, and to be honest you might get a replacement TD280 for that much.<br /><br />The other option is to turn off at the wall as you now have to do. These decks are very safe as the wall power supply is just 16v AC to the deck, the same as a model train set. I tend to leave mine running when in use, so I turn on at the start of a listening session and place , flip and remove records from an always spinning platter - DJ style, perfectly safe. Then unplug when I'm completely finished<br />Mr Iveshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14965084993191032538noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8000191682087974772.post-36993121721218677462018-07-17T19:06:17.840+01:002018-07-17T19:06:17.840+01:00Hello
I have a td280 which was working fine.
The s...Hello<br />I have a td280 which was working fine.<br />The switch for stop is just staying on 33rpm when you turn to stop or 45rpm<br />There has been some dust around.<br />Could I clean this or is it best to source a new switch.<br /><br />thanks<br /><br />trevorTrevor Stableshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06702414118384061131noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8000191682087974772.post-71345627755018376722018-07-13T16:40:42.251+01:002018-07-13T16:40:42.251+01:00Hello Mr Ives
I have just set up my TD 280 after ...Hello Mr Ives<br /><br />I have just set up my TD 280 after several years of non use.<br />It is playing through an old Sony mini system and I looking to replace this with a Denon RCDN9 with a Project Phono box E.<br />It is playing as I write(Bad Company) but the switch to the stop position is not working.<br />This was in order before so I expect it may have been damaged in moving.<br />It runs at 33rpm and stays running at that speed if the switch is placed to stop or to 45rpm.<br />I am not technically minded Hi-fi wise although can do basics easily enough.<br />I am in Bradford.<br />Is it simple for me to buy a new switch mechanism and replace or might I be better placed having the Deck repaired if I can find somewhere local.<br />For now I will stop the deck by unplugging from the mains but do not expect that that is a good option going forward.<br /><br />Thanks<br /><br />Trevor Stables<br />Trevor Stablesnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8000191682087974772.post-80896527046698666142018-03-31T06:58:19.257+01:002018-03-31T06:58:19.257+01:00My pleasure Joel, glad you are up and running agai...My pleasure Joel, glad you are up and running againMr Iveshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14965084993191032538noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8000191682087974772.post-60098541315531392232018-03-31T01:05:17.114+01:002018-03-31T01:05:17.114+01:00Good news Mr Ives, upon inspection of the innards ...Good news Mr Ives, upon inspection of the innards of my TF280, everything looked pretty ship shape. I had already ordered the linz wire replacements with new tags, so this time, with a new soldering tip, I successfully soldered the new tags on and we're back in business. <br /><br />Thanks for the support on this, glad to get the table back on track.<br />JoelAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8000191682087974772.post-3464587035835340732017-12-30T08:31:08.845+00:002017-12-30T08:31:08.845+00:00Thanks NashSpaceRocket , since writing that blog a...Thanks NashSpaceRocket , since writing that blog article I got the chance to buy a Thorens TD321, so I sold a couple of decks including the TD280 to fund it. I really liked the TD280 and its a good no nonsense deck that will give pleasure for a long time. The TD321 has a floating suspension and heavier platter, but uses the same circuit to synthesise the AC for the motor.<br /><br />Does your TD280 have the inverted bearing or conventional ?Mr Iveshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14965084993191032538noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8000191682087974772.post-22267428072095871532017-12-29T19:55:07.770+00:002017-12-29T19:55:07.770+00:00i've owned one of these for 22 years and it st...i've owned one of these for 22 years and it still works great.<br />They have a problem with belt slippage, so you need to keep spares when the belt stretches so much it slips off the drive pulley, that's the time to replace.<br />Apart from changing the cartridge (i put a Grado gold on mine), one of the best and easiest bangs for the buck is to upgrade the hard wired connecting cables.<br />I bought some kimber pbj connectors stripped one end and soldered them in with cardas silver solder. I'm no electronics expert but it was very easy to do. <br />The new cable is like night and day. NashSpaceRockethttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08118305641176545715noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8000191682087974772.post-40489949060200829252017-04-17T08:07:45.718+01:002017-04-17T08:07:45.718+01:00The cartridge tags were soldered I think. It's...The cartridge tags were soldered I think. It's worth getting a hobby stand, one with a base and some clips to hold the cartridge tab while you old the wire and solder and soldering iron with your spare hand. Its fiddly as hell.Mr Iveshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14965084993191032538noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8000191682087974772.post-59769319612686941912017-04-16T22:32:57.205+01:002017-04-16T22:32:57.205+01:00Yeah, it was the crimp that broke off. I have a re...Yeah, it was the crimp that broke off. I have a relatively good soldering iron (Hakko 936 knock off, but not bad), but the tip was a little bit shoddy and wouldn't tin. The sad thing is that it's probably going to be the cost of the turntable itself to take it to a repair shop, so with that and the fact that I really would like to learn and keep this table in check, I feel like it's my duty to get involved!<br /><br />I have messaged the guy on ebay with the Tonearm rewire kit to see if he can send me some spares. I think it comes with solder, it didn't appear that the originals were soldered on (rather crimped maybe?). Did you find this as well?<br /><br />Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8000191682087974772.post-88033886594022965702017-04-16T20:31:15.346+01:002017-04-16T20:31:15.346+01:00well soldering is a skill, and you may have reache...well soldering is a skill, and you may have reached the point where its a good idea to take it to a repair shop. A poor solder connection can cause more problems than no solder connection. What did you break off, do you mean the crimp connectors that connect to the cartridge ? It should be possible to solder a new crimp, but perhaps worth getting someone with a fine high temp soldering iron to do this ?Mr Iveshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14965084993191032538noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8000191682087974772.post-80395042292499542442017-04-16T19:16:14.189+01:002017-04-16T19:16:14.189+01:00Hi Mr Ives,
Apologies again for the long delay.....Hi Mr Ives, <br /><br />Apologies again for the long delay...life is always getting in the way of my progress. <br /><br />I checked all the connectors with a multimeter ensuring they were < 6 OHms and some seemed to be a little loose. I then tried to add solder near all the connectors, which (despite my crappy soldering tip and lack of skill in the area) seemed to work temporarily. I got much better sound of the machine, but something I did during the solder cause of the actual terminal clips to loosen, which was causing the vibration from the sound to push it off the terminal connect. I tried fiddling with it to tighten the clip, but ended up breaking it clean off. <br /><br />So all in, I'm basically back to square one, but worse. Those wires seem near impossible to solder and control (at least at my skill level), so it sounds like getting pre-soldered tags/clips would be probably a good idea for me. are there clips on the inside of the turntable as well, or are those just soldered to the board?<br /><br />Best,<br />Joel<br /><br />(maybe there is a better way to connect with you via email? )Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8000191682087974772.post-68261895690778578892016-11-06T11:33:52.210+00:002016-11-06T11:33:52.210+00:00Hi Joel, I'll not lie, it is very fiddly. sear...Hi Joel, I'll not lie, it is very fiddly. search ebay for "tonearm rewire". I'm not sure where you are but on ebay UK where I am I get various kits. I'd look at the ones which are 4 separate litz wires, ideally with the cartridge connectors already soldered on one end. You will have to wire the 4 wires to connectors beneath the arm, inside the base, you can just about se them emerge in my picture with the base off. Some sellers sell a screened black wire with the 4 conductors inside, but his looks way too stiff to me. the wires have to be very thin and flexible to prevent them impeding the movement of the arm, or you'll get all kinds of tracking/skipping issues.<br /><br /><br />But are the connectors on the back of the cartridge a tight fit ? If they are not, I'd look to that first.Mr Iveshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14965084993191032538noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8000191682087974772.post-58893171012269963432016-11-06T11:15:01.912+00:002016-11-06T11:15:01.912+00:00Oh wow, sounds fiddly indeed, but from the sounds ...Oh wow, sounds fiddly indeed, but from the sounds of it, unless I try a round two on the soldering at the headshell side, this may be my only option. <br /><br />Do you know if the wires on the board side need soldering as well? My soldering skills are a 5/10 at best, so it sounds like a challenge! Just had a quick ebay search for the "4 wire loom turntable" but couldn't find anything but the jumper cables. What did you search for?<br /><br />Thanks again for you help!<br />JoelJoelnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8000191682087974772.post-4189913964621849272016-11-06T10:29:32.315+00:002016-11-06T10:29:32.315+00:00I have to say I'm not sure how the headshell w...I have to say I'm not sure how the headshell works on this arm. The allen key bolt that holds the headshell on and allows you to adjust azimuth is very stiff on mine and I have not budged it. I suspect the wiring goes right through i.e its not a true un-pluggable headshell. . Could it be that the brass clips on the headshell wires are simply not tight enough fit ? They should be hard to pull off, so if they come away easily, that suggests to me that they simply need a bit of careful crimping. Its extremely fiddly work and as I get older I dread this type of thing as my eyesight is not what it ones was. However Possibly one by one, slide the headshell wires off the back of the cartridge and give each connector a gentle but firm squeeze with pliers and reattach. Care is needed as too tight and you'll not be able to slide on. Its also best done with the deck on a table with you seated, doing this stooped is very bad for your back.<br /><br />if the wires are very poor it is technically possible to re-wire the arm, but you need to get the correct flexible litz wire from ebay and you need to get the 4 new wires pulled through to where they emerge inside the deck. There are sellers selling a complete 4 wire loom with cartridge push connectors already soldered at one end. I guess you'd use the old wires to pull the new wires through. Ideally if you could remove 3 of the 4 existing wires, securing the last so it doesn't get drawn inside. Then use the 4th old wire as a lassoo to pull the 4 new ones through. Fiddly but should workMr Iveshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14965084993191032538noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8000191682087974772.post-66837077312690600452016-11-06T10:08:34.779+00:002016-11-06T10:08:34.779+00:00Hi Mr Ives,
Thanks for the heads up – though was ...Hi Mr Ives,<br /><br />Thanks for the heads up – though was truly hoping for better news! Re: the wiring, When I first got my MK280, I was getting a lot of cutting out during playback – constantly having to nudge the turntable to get the sounds to return. I took a closer inspection and noticed the wires were pretty visibly worn near their terminals where they connected to the headset. A slight touch to them would normally restore sound, so I figured the connection was bad. I disconnected the headshell and lightly soldered a couple of the more worn looking terminals (2 or 4). This helped, but I am still getting the issue.<br /><br />I was just looking to replace the headshell / catridge, so thought maybe it was time to sort this once and for all. <br /><br />to note – I have also taken the other steps you mentioned in the article above (bought a cork and rubber slipmat to raise the arm level and bought sobothane domes (but have yet to fit them as I haven't gotten around to measuring the plinth base and cutting the plywood!).<br /><br />Thanks for the notes and help.<br />JoelAnonymous (Joel)noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8000191682087974772.post-40140452851376708362016-10-25T21:02:25.080+01:002016-10-25T21:02:25.080+01:00Hi,
I have to say that I would always leave arm w...Hi,<br /><br />I have to say that I would always leave arm wiring alone unless it was actually broken. When you say the existing wires are worse for wear ? The only way to test this is with a multimeter from disconnected headshell wire to the equivalent end of the RCA connector. Should be < 6 OHms ?Mr Iveshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14965084993191032538noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8000191682087974772.post-67262307832530988542016-10-25T20:45:36.114+01:002016-10-25T20:45:36.114+01:00Hi Mr. Ives, Thanks for this post. Just wondering ...Hi Mr. Ives, Thanks for this post. Just wondering if you had any insight into the connecting wires in the headshell. I am looking to change my cartridge and currently the wires are a little worse for wear and i think they may need replacing. I've seen and has some experience with shorter "jumper" type wires on other turntables, but these particular wires appear to travel inside the arm and all the way down. <br /><br />Can you confirm? I am hoping I am wrong, otherwise, replacing them sounds like a rather painful process. Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8000191682087974772.post-69967615109100868242016-05-26T13:11:35.674+01:002016-05-26T13:11:35.674+01:00Hi Ilia , I'm travelling at the moment but wil...Hi Ilia , I'm travelling at the moment but will post better pictures when I return in a few weeks. I simply have the weight with a line and a loop. The loop is on the first or second mark on the rod. The line passes through the wire support with the weight suspended.Mr Iveshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14965084993191032538noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8000191682087974772.post-18937031937650264822016-05-26T08:14:13.463+01:002016-05-26T08:14:13.463+01:00Thank you for your reply, I have already read the ...Thank you for your reply, I have already read the service manual as well as the owners manual but I still can not figure out how to set the appropriate length of wire, even on the first mark the tension seems to be too high. Should the length of wire be determined from the locked position of the arm or from when the arm is just on the ousted of the record? It would be extremely helpful if you could post a video or just a step by step guide to setting up the anti skating for this particular arm. <br /><br />Thank you again for your time and effort!Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16871148693922884165noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8000191682087974772.post-90388173827985825872016-05-24T12:48:47.698+01:002016-05-24T12:48:47.698+01:00Thank you Illia ,
I mine is set to the second mar...Thank you Illia ,<br /><br />I mine is set to the second mark, but of course with this arm you also can set the lateral balance. You can download the service guide free from here:<br />http://www.vinylengine.com/ve_downloads/index.php?thorens/thorens_td280_mkiv_en_de_fr.pdf<br />Mr Iveshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14965084993191032538noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8000191682087974772.post-42965979000894205212016-05-23T22:57:40.795+01:002016-05-23T22:57:40.795+01:00Hello Mr. Ives,
I just picked up the a Thorens 28...Hello Mr. Ives,<br /><br />I just picked up the a Thorens 280 MK IV and the one of the issues I'm having is getting the anti-skating adjusted correctly as I can't find any guides on how to do it with the tp35 arm. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thank you for the great write up!Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16871148693922884165noreply@blogger.com