tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-80001916820879747722024-03-27T06:37:27.364+00:00mending thingsMr Iveshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14965084993191032538noreply@blogger.comBlogger66125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8000191682087974772.post-57847301162222468702024-02-19T12:34:00.011+00:002024-03-05T10:23:04.033+00:00Trio Kenwood KD-1033 turntable main bearing service<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">One of my first posts in this blog was regarding the servicing of the Pioneer PL12D turntable, and that has proven to be the most popular by a significant margin. The Pioneer PL12D had its competitors, and probably the most popular alternative was the Trio Kenwood KD-1033 turntable. I use both names (Trio and Kenwood) as the company operated under different names in different markets. In the UK they were Trio, possibly because the brand Kenwood was most famous here for food blenders.<br /><br />95% of a KD-1033 is similar to Pioneer PL12D, and servicing them is very much the same process. Both are belt drive , have an AC synchronous motor, mechanical speed change , a main bearing, sprung top deck and rubber motor mounts. the KD-1033 uses a different type of anti skate mechanism, employing a thread and weight. The plinth is shallower with an internal cross brace.<br /><br />One aspect that is different is the design of the main bearing, and servicing it is a little harder than a PL12D. The Pioneer main bearing is a Brass well into which a ball bearing sits, with the spindle on top. the spindle is held captive by a side screw. Its very easy to dismantle and service.<br /><br /><br />The KD-1033 uses a brass well, but has a hole at the bottom, making it an open bearing. Inside it has both a metal disk to cap off the hole at the bottom, and had a plastic thrust pad, on which the ball bearing sat. The ball bearing is held captive by a conical recess in the base of the spindle.<br />The spindle is held captive not by a side screw but by a side rivet. I have seen posts on forums where this is referred to as a blob of solder, but it is a rivet.<br /><br />If you are restoring a KD-1033 it's worth properly servicing the bearing, as the original may exhibit a number of problems, including the original grease drying out, and the thrust pad crumbing with age. These issues can cause the platter to rotate at the wrong speed , and sit too low . <br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0vwA1sb6vWSP_S8LEVmLEYKWDiBasRJwLehpzmajVBMzQprEvYrVd-DFT4emgMznnEuX-rxc8KoOl8F4ET8d9kGNE4ozH-4vmQhprepiXqTvudtPCCvCzLi8rhpdRdbo9BNgRyH8J7Eoh1eWqohmvagSd10t9r3nodu29qn6ZAZ7GSo1v0DHP3bYfFbAe/s4032/IMG_8305.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0vwA1sb6vWSP_S8LEVmLEYKWDiBasRJwLehpzmajVBMzQprEvYrVd-DFT4emgMznnEuX-rxc8KoOl8F4ET8d9kGNE4ozH-4vmQhprepiXqTvudtPCCvCzLi8rhpdRdbo9BNgRyH8J7Eoh1eWqohmvagSd10t9r3nodu29qn6ZAZ7GSo1v0DHP3bYfFbAe/w640-h480/IMG_8305.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The whole assembly is threaded at the collar and uses a brass nut and washer to attach to the turntable top plate. Servicing is much easier if you undo the nut and remove the whole thing, taking care to keep the nut and washer safe. Here you can see the whole assembly. I have replaced the retaining nut and washer to keep it all together. You can also see the side rivet, here after loosening <br /><br /></div></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimJhoJoM8VCwX3rPIVkk77HXrc_IrYbdDyUCcUhOH0aSOI_pEymvV5Zq2yNFepGGDh578KJvqER2gJEQ7yJVO2qAy2jMLTFCuHlMymsOijHrNKfjKRp5kOCggpPkjp9iLMWHsMzyp_0E1gOJ3dfM3g3SlzyZkAz1uVeChjmziBSA5BPPSSwam4SXr0blAG/s584/Screenshot%202024-02-19%20at%2012.16.45.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="52" data-original-width="584" height="56" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimJhoJoM8VCwX3rPIVkk77HXrc_IrYbdDyUCcUhOH0aSOI_pEymvV5Zq2yNFepGGDh578KJvqER2gJEQ7yJVO2qAy2jMLTFCuHlMymsOijHrNKfjKRp5kOCggpPkjp9iLMWHsMzyp_0E1gOJ3dfM3g3SlzyZkAz1uVeChjmziBSA5BPPSSwam4SXr0blAG/w640-h56/Screenshot%202024-02-19%20at%2012.16.45.png" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;">The service guide for this deck doesn't cover this process. The whole bearing assembly has one single part number and exactly what is inside is not explained in any exploded views</span><br style="text-align: left;" /><br style="text-align: left;" /></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrHo3HilF6FefN35pc2p2nsirogpsvYy_RcBk_CgBDPa-GWKcVHjDT-HEBCXbpfsyLjVs9qbojWy87xxMBd4NR57fOl3HrCQHgl_ENX6vysmSLh3kX4ZW00FNZBncWeKiyqF_nZ7qhiImPV0GUlwJBRNCq2WX8xx9Mfqpxj9tpc8DJT9GXFTBR373sfJt3/s255/Screenshot%202024-02-19%20at%2012.16.22.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="255" data-original-width="173" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrHo3HilF6FefN35pc2p2nsirogpsvYy_RcBk_CgBDPa-GWKcVHjDT-HEBCXbpfsyLjVs9qbojWy87xxMBd4NR57fOl3HrCQHgl_ENX6vysmSLh3kX4ZW00FNZBncWeKiyqF_nZ7qhiImPV0GUlwJBRNCq2WX8xx9Mfqpxj9tpc8DJT9GXFTBR373sfJt3/w434-h640/Screenshot%202024-02-19%20at%2012.16.22.png" width="434" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Service guide exploded view</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQwewETSXrDgZw_HNTFQ4Io3TOkGi_YX-DFapq8qB5A7MlQq11VWKJzduuQJw_q6RpGZyK2ZPVoo7bKrTm41S5K_WnJmq0C5u8XkIbt5KVFkBOpnjzvyUlqxuf2GTtuPfmKWS_l8qYcvNrvx4bpXhPdbXgvD36KszKU3IGc8UdjQvpuEgc7t6BMlZzxWuI/s4032/IMG_8306.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQwewETSXrDgZw_HNTFQ4Io3TOkGi_YX-DFapq8qB5A7MlQq11VWKJzduuQJw_q6RpGZyK2ZPVoo7bKrTm41S5K_WnJmq0C5u8XkIbt5KVFkBOpnjzvyUlqxuf2GTtuPfmKWS_l8qYcvNrvx4bpXhPdbXgvD36KszKU3IGc8UdjQvpuEgc7t6BMlZzxWuI/w640-h480/IMG_8306.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I have read of people using either pliers to extract the rivet or drilling it out. I found I could fairly easily tease it out with a sharp knife. Its held in by a snug fit and some threadlocker adhesive, the latter can be scraped away first with the knife. With the blade I teased the edge of the dome and was slowly able to lever the rivet out</div><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP1MD_MPfBk-HgKseZlQ0bO_eQ_TSsIvs19JxEkHS6WU_UjYmNQXfWmCgoy4ORu9COX_CbnBVt3ILrdvLdU4gXxXo6LLU8tfglF9Cx-x5QZYrxGxTo7CSRwpfJc9dUNbWSYybiuuzFTOjRZcEuLomaHzWf0VjvMu9bwpyEnzosPOYal3JSSx6dKNRLkmoA/s4032/IMG_8304.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP1MD_MPfBk-HgKseZlQ0bO_eQ_TSsIvs19JxEkHS6WU_UjYmNQXfWmCgoy4ORu9COX_CbnBVt3ILrdvLdU4gXxXo6LLU8tfglF9Cx-x5QZYrxGxTo7CSRwpfJc9dUNbWSYybiuuzFTOjRZcEuLomaHzWf0VjvMu9bwpyEnzosPOYal3JSSx6dKNRLkmoA/w640-h480/IMG_8304.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmxiqHfjwYbiWdpiyAKB75vdINZIWqRt_hB0tVmavxINm9GQ-_q40coxIBbtAtYtuguCjInfcXla_zarilmh-RebTsTnsuBbBMz8yATsW0IgsGbFX5n8qnSy-EgaJS4CvXrVSaPNl8tWgQK5A2DgBHJfpfAapZ04SQqjR0anFF2EQFs51h_Waa2Y9oxke6/s4032/IMG_8283.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmxiqHfjwYbiWdpiyAKB75vdINZIWqRt_hB0tVmavxINm9GQ-_q40coxIBbtAtYtuguCjInfcXla_zarilmh-RebTsTnsuBbBMz8yATsW0IgsGbFX5n8qnSy-EgaJS4CvXrVSaPNl8tWgQK5A2DgBHJfpfAapZ04SQqjR0anFF2EQFs51h_Waa2Y9oxke6/w640-h480/IMG_8283.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: left;">With the rivet extracted, you can disassemble the bearing assembly into its constituent parts . You can see the metal disk , which sits at the bottom of the bearing well to cap it off. The ball bearing is still inserted in the base of the spindle in the picture, being held in by gravity and any residual grease and will come away with cleaning. The ball bearing appears to be 4mm diameter. NOTE I found no plastic thrust pad, though the metal disk and spindle had blobs of an unidentified green substance. This might be old grease, but I suspect the original pad has completely disintegrated and mixed with the grease.<br /><br />I thoroughly cleaned the parts to remove the old grease from spindle and brass bearing sleeve.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDMFBHtB-N1QpAYNNYEv3oKsWPCQmSRqF1rHYmgS-nMYqU1ueobmaKKOSV9TYFO4n4KM0Vni5avHDNxXNWgN96aaEjvzb2rf7EekZK9UXDxZV5tibNcl3uLdio9RUU37XBTpVOttE5nLTNbwGBRRQgsYe-8KQY2dp91bl8JiBFNvwyvjIp_vTmiHIA9IRo/s4032/IMG_8294.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDMFBHtB-N1QpAYNNYEv3oKsWPCQmSRqF1rHYmgS-nMYqU1ueobmaKKOSV9TYFO4n4KM0Vni5avHDNxXNWgN96aaEjvzb2rf7EekZK9UXDxZV5tibNcl3uLdio9RUU37XBTpVOttE5nLTNbwGBRRQgsYe-8KQY2dp91bl8JiBFNvwyvjIp_vTmiHIA9IRo/w640-h480/IMG_8294.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I ordered some PTFE sheet of 1mm thickness. Possibly the deck originally used Delrin for this pad, but PTFE is even better and cheap to buy from ebay. After one attempt with a knife, I found the easiest way to make a pad was to punch them out using a desktop hole punch. They are slightly smaller than the hole but were good enough and it's an easier and neater solution.</div><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjff0nK5Vy5ca3BAkODlF33vu9VPXx9DLRAUe4PTCCL5BaT-kHpTF9-Wf8rEWcf0OHN84G1wnnb5RBB3Z19hm21frer38etHB8BYq9DI_QeNAAiTiB0q9rycTBi8NWDyJM_gw8nhFy6ufqgxG0sJ3fP4wpKD0jQTOHCXDENq2RFrpirzuvCMNB14FLu8bc1/s4032/IMG_8295.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjff0nK5Vy5ca3BAkODlF33vu9VPXx9DLRAUe4PTCCL5BaT-kHpTF9-Wf8rEWcf0OHN84G1wnnb5RBB3Z19hm21frer38etHB8BYq9DI_QeNAAiTiB0q9rycTBi8NWDyJM_gw8nhFy6ufqgxG0sJ3fP4wpKD0jQTOHCXDENq2RFrpirzuvCMNB14FLu8bc1/w480-h640/IMG_8295.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYJ15bCnfhvnBFH6FDLqp-z0hC-v51T3bECi1vQ_27ptq0UnrAbIVbjkJoQkqCWHdru1R-6vqtajtG2wxTRfHfz5u4Hhyq5h01Ue9ZbH2C7yMIRapNUUcI3vfgp5faq6VWkE2P58f_RJcAZ97HyiA8htyhsqcYpRdXNUMrYuZAnnT3oYPXIsorC5VlxSmi/s4032/IMG_8296.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYJ15bCnfhvnBFH6FDLqp-z0hC-v51T3bECi1vQ_27ptq0UnrAbIVbjkJoQkqCWHdru1R-6vqtajtG2wxTRfHfz5u4Hhyq5h01Ue9ZbH2C7yMIRapNUUcI3vfgp5faq6VWkE2P58f_RJcAZ97HyiA8htyhsqcYpRdXNUMrYuZAnnT3oYPXIsorC5VlxSmi/w480-h640/IMG_8296.jpg" width="480" /></a><br /><br /><div style="text-align: left;">Assembly involved a blob of silicon grease to adhere the ball to the end of the spindle and the pad to the ball. I purchased a pack of new 4mm bearings as they are cheap and the old one was pitted. I also put a smear of grease around the bass of the bearing well to make an oil-tight seal with the disk. <br /><br />NOTE The disk had a dimple which was the contact point with the ball bearing. I assume this was from wear with the ball, and I kept this surface facing upward, with the PTFE pad now seperating ball from disk. I put a few drops of oil along the sides of the spindle shaft, thus using a mix of grease and oil as lubricant , as per best practice with the Lenco GL75 open bearing of similar design.</div></div><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyWuT4wZ9s5tl5FUgvioduJDYBMfMxtwOM16oYIFAETw-AddVTjSCiaTFU6uh4dqD6BTXvnCCjZ14MovRjITuoyw3iL8dTMlJpiBxi0DzKJu968UGc39a70jplponN8a3b9qr7UWTSi2w1h_Wnh3eT-9BWyT1Xn46b1-C87sqPz7rwZUvhLBe4t3VqZ9bQ/s4032/IMG_8302.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyWuT4wZ9s5tl5FUgvioduJDYBMfMxtwOM16oYIFAETw-AddVTjSCiaTFU6uh4dqD6BTXvnCCjZ14MovRjITuoyw3iL8dTMlJpiBxi0DzKJu968UGc39a70jplponN8a3b9qr7UWTSi2w1h_Wnh3eT-9BWyT1Xn46b1-C87sqPz7rwZUvhLBe4t3VqZ9bQ/w480-h640/IMG_8302.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><br /><br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV2aL0b13354CsArV3SHzpPOWxTJIu0ASFGS0EQYsppgdr378FxAHQnZKJbxFCKbKiA6LQ5FD5IYx9FsBHD4onkRTkCFup9zZn_08j61r_wpH0uew9zmp1Ofu0YXL7ycSw_tcJBLMU3WFV68jmQF7ggeH7nQkGWSsg3SfRXbY0N34C9jml5qsh2c77aQk4/s4032/IMG_8307.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV2aL0b13354CsArV3SHzpPOWxTJIu0ASFGS0EQYsppgdr378FxAHQnZKJbxFCKbKiA6LQ5FD5IYx9FsBHD4onkRTkCFup9zZn_08j61r_wpH0uew9zmp1Ofu0YXL7ycSw_tcJBLMU3WFV68jmQF7ggeH7nQkGWSsg3SfRXbY0N34C9jml5qsh2c77aQk4/w480-h640/IMG_8307.jpg" width="480" /></a><br /><br />Finally I reinserted the rivet and resealed with a drop of loctite Thread Bond<br /><br /><div style="text-align: left;">The bearing felt noticeably smoother to turn and I await feedback from the owner to see if it has addressed speed and fouling issues he was experiencing. if successful I plan to offer this as a service for people who want to restore KD-1033 turntables and might like to have someone service the bearing for them, it's cheap and easy to do by return of post.</div></div><p></p>Mr Iveshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14965084993191032538noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8000191682087974772.post-1461737802879269592024-01-24T10:04:00.001+00:002024-01-24T10:26:37.003+00:00Making an Apple Mac Mini rack from an IKEA UPPDATERA plate rack<p> If you follow my recent posts, I've been deploying some older computers on citizen science projects, namely Fold@home and BOINC.<br /><br />I now have 3 Mac Mini computers, one of which is the desktop machine I use for all my online activity. The other two were running <a href="https://foldingathome.org/">Fold@home</a> client software in a headless configuration (no connected monitor, keyboard or mouse)<br /><br />I redistributed the various servers around the house and decided that all three Mini's should help heat my office space, but how to arrange them ? <br /><br />The Mini is a very neat design, with air drawn through the edge circular base and vented out through the rear slots. The solid aluminium casework also ats as a heatsink . Mostly it's completely silent and you could be forgiven for thinking the Mini does not use a fan (it does).<br /><br />While stacking them vertically is aesthetically appealing, this would probably cause heating issues as the heat from the chassis below would increase the temperature of cooler air flowing in the base of the one above.<br /><br />So the next option is sideways stacking, like books in a library. The machines are quite happy to be used in this fashion. They are heavy enough to stand unaided in this fashion, but I was concerned that I might accidentally topple them, like dominoes .<br /><br />Then I remembered an IKEA UPPDATERA kitchen system for organising drawers and stacking plates that we'd used and , like LEGO, we had some pieces left over. It consists of black based sections with holes into which long pegs are placed and rotated to lock. <br /><br />I found that one base section and 9 pegs made a perfect Mac Mini rack. It's not tight around the Mini's but that doesn't matter, it prevents them from toppling, and if I wanted a tight fit I could fit some wedges . I spread them out to maximise airflow.<br /><br /><br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXS0xXPVqh3e0mG3HJGz5jBuqz6I8XDts9QEwLRF_DV4iDwQjXOoBC5VopBxLwR65E8JLPr7gjcP2NfICO_h0PvW64eu55Sc8NFIVPvh-rToKXoIwws1Bc89M9vW-AESSaEfKaQM07sHFRXpa_QMX0jkAHY_LQ3xvJXvAhQanGBUseAZz9Q13sMoH8-euZ/s4032/IMG_8165.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXS0xXPVqh3e0mG3HJGz5jBuqz6I8XDts9QEwLRF_DV4iDwQjXOoBC5VopBxLwR65E8JLPr7gjcP2NfICO_h0PvW64eu55Sc8NFIVPvh-rToKXoIwws1Bc89M9vW-AESSaEfKaQM07sHFRXpa_QMX0jkAHY_LQ3xvJXvAhQanGBUseAZz9Q13sMoH8-euZ/w640-h480/IMG_8165.jpeg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">my three mac Minis, supported in their IKEA plate rack</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjepVBIR_5rgv71lD_jfUk90iYoL_k2-1ghv8PjGU6Tb9qiZjpfM2fad-mJnnnVxy8jqnFN5kW75b9c-h3e35NuEe1O-blNw-jx66DfLDfeBQiZmGwMDWaBSLLZ6NYf1v4qKcKEY5zA-L83dHx_dv6ChY0PWv4vBSV31A_A0jxIiquQxZHwGCe4wL_uQuPS/s4032/IMG_8172.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjepVBIR_5rgv71lD_jfUk90iYoL_k2-1ghv8PjGU6Tb9qiZjpfM2fad-mJnnnVxy8jqnFN5kW75b9c-h3e35NuEe1O-blNw-jx66DfLDfeBQiZmGwMDWaBSLLZ6NYf1v4qKcKEY5zA-L83dHx_dv6ChY0PWv4vBSV31A_A0jxIiquQxZHwGCe4wL_uQuPS/w640-h480/IMG_8172.jpeg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">UPPDATERA is the brand of IKEA Kitchen organisers</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br />Mr Iveshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14965084993191032538noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8000191682087974772.post-24585629860222227972023-12-14T08:42:00.014+00:002023-12-14T18:16:58.293+00:00Repair a Thane H2O X5 Steam Mop<p>I volunteer at a couple of Repair cafes in the UK, and we have had a couple of these popular Thane H2O X5 Steam mops in with similar symptoms and fixes.<br /><br />These devices generate steam from water held in a chamber and direct this to the head, to which a mop cloth can be attached. This steam is hot enough to break down dirt, grease while killing off any bacteria. The owners loved them and were very happy to get them working again.<br /><br />The failed units no longer pumped water through the boiler chamber , and hence generated no steam despite the power light coming on.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://az686452.vo.msecnd.net/cmr/t19667/opt/bea3ba62ed13421bbed9a918a769e738_1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="650" data-original-width="600" height="650" src="https://az686452.vo.msecnd.net/cmr/t19667/opt/bea3ba62ed13421bbed9a918a769e738_1.jpg" width="600" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;">The units will suffer with lime scale , as any electrical appliance that boils water will. However the "Catch 22" is that in order to pump a descaler through the pump to descale it, you need a working pump to extract water from the main reservoir via its umbilical hose.</span><br style="text-align: left;" /><br style="text-align: left;" /><span style="text-align: left;">I did a bit of googling and found this video from the always excellent <a href="https://bigclive.com/">bigclivedotcom</a></span></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="297" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Yz5MP76EuZc" width="633" youtube-src-id="Yz5MP76EuZc"></iframe></div><br /><br /><br />Clives video is the key to fixing these units. <br /><br />First you need to disconnect from the mains and remove the handle which does not contain any power. It's also useful to remove the triangular cleaning head. To access the motor you carefully need to remove the rear panel. This was held on by around 8 screws, several with HEX fittings. This then enables you to very carefully open the unit<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOODkVA4Czv6zsJrcw96ztkeknVBI3rmEMVAdoh2AZCnVgcxTYQfoDFdjb2EFUhSs5ZiSvtSvfjWjtQja9yTvnSLCI8IL6WxID57Squkj_exHMrrkD-ikIj2g4p1MdwNw1Yg5vbhWw0bbUZCnAElzcVV7a9XvH6v67jeLrlbIt_4txgQ34Wo8rV0c7AuZc/w300-h400/IMG_7925.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="300" /></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inside we see the pump and the insulated steam chamber. Note the pump has two pipes , one at either end</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOODkVA4Czv6zsJrcw96ztkeknVBI3rmEMVAdoh2AZCnVgcxTYQfoDFdjb2EFUhSs5ZiSvtSvfjWjtQja9yTvnSLCI8IL6WxID57Squkj_exHMrrkD-ikIj2g4p1MdwNw1Yg5vbhWw0bbUZCnAElzcVV7a9XvH6v67jeLrlbIt_4txgQ34Wo8rV0c7AuZc/s4032/IMG_7925.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /><br /><br /><br /></a><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFchfsbAqr75RoZ334fVtS_KUgrvwWcBjch-5ILaHqOHKZRW7uvTxpPN6tolRDo5Et8yi7qRLYfWp-_7-YimvEpHhL4wGJg_Jw6G1iBf_G069UaxJilCOnVuMKvUuLtiZ5j4I6PBXhcsddidwEeLBlIvaRvGWTGp35bRwxNJbI29aNFQrbClybUagBgN2_/s4032/IMG_7926.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFchfsbAqr75RoZ334fVtS_KUgrvwWcBjch-5ILaHqOHKZRW7uvTxpPN6tolRDo5Et8yi7qRLYfWp-_7-YimvEpHhL4wGJg_Jw6G1iBf_G069UaxJilCOnVuMKvUuLtiZ5j4I6PBXhcsddidwEeLBlIvaRvGWTGp35bRwxNJbI29aNFQrbClybUagBgN2_/w300-h400/IMG_7926.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">a close up on the pump with its retaining screw removed. Once out you can remove the black retaining clip that holds the pump in place</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjezDYiR6x-YHKIbV4NwpUp-6Hv-37KQNq-18Fw4PkiiwQN2phZIHdZB3i9xnfpxu5nFTGIo_3bf4Jdw-31tZd58mm_wopAmOEvheqcddahn_XCGsePMpGnboqNamVZlK49NfC-zC-eakSObjedzQpv97m6GjgS3yHeGFUocSu0gDtFFe6nn4rhAUwoFN0A/s4032/IMG_7927.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjezDYiR6x-YHKIbV4NwpUp-6Hv-37KQNq-18Fw4PkiiwQN2phZIHdZB3i9xnfpxu5nFTGIo_3bf4Jdw-31tZd58mm_wopAmOEvheqcddahn_XCGsePMpGnboqNamVZlK49NfC-zC-eakSObjedzQpv97m6GjgS3yHeGFUocSu0gDtFFe6nn4rhAUwoFN0A/w300-h400/IMG_7927.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With the black retaining bracket removed we can see it's very similar to the pump in Clive's video</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><br /></div></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglrkJ0cen8zdxpKmqq2Nzttz_XFbOiyL9v8TzKHy9zxRjvlABze9_1kIwdimjPGgfcO1ibg1mMUPeo1Z6884cXzw74zC0pGyrJj4eBcFgAWrpQUxZmE7Ms_vWAb3InOFTPwGyqjFfeSSwQodwR8kZCJGEPvcb7c2cRM6F33RkOhTuMjM3_tYxsYGlgrwf_/s4032/IMG_7928.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglrkJ0cen8zdxpKmqq2Nzttz_XFbOiyL9v8TzKHy9zxRjvlABze9_1kIwdimjPGgfcO1ibg1mMUPeo1Z6884cXzw74zC0pGyrJj4eBcFgAWrpQUxZmE7Ms_vWAb3InOFTPwGyqjFfeSSwQodwR8kZCJGEPvcb7c2cRM6F33RkOhTuMjM3_tYxsYGlgrwf_/w300-h400/IMG_7928.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">First we need to remove the silicone pipes. I used tweezers to open the clips</td></tr></tbody></table></div><br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1dbbMHMBgJcc6WC3W98oSicRiEZWYdW4igSNWUaTXwr_LhuoRM9XtOXrrNnWq9C3_1KM5HF4Zf2x-NAPXTZUbBKWc345x8pPS4rCzS2LirISweoDstoVJjjIzbcTclFlf7hPtRYL6dKcCKQISVEAlPirj4JmpkdusD47zAPTz6RpzVzXvDkTqKUVc3J4Y/s4032/IMG_7929.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="346" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1dbbMHMBgJcc6WC3W98oSicRiEZWYdW4igSNWUaTXwr_LhuoRM9XtOXrrNnWq9C3_1KM5HF4Zf2x-NAPXTZUbBKWc345x8pPS4rCzS2LirISweoDstoVJjjIzbcTclFlf7hPtRYL6dKcCKQISVEAlPirj4JmpkdusD47zAPTz6RpzVzXvDkTqKUVc3J4Y/w260-h346/IMG_7929.jpg" width="260" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />Be careful, I found it very hard to remove the top (brown in the picture) pipe without splitting it and in fact needed to order a length of replacement hose online, having split the pipe in extraction. There is not enough slack to allow you to cut off even a short split section<br /><br /><br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnHw-7BQJVFC4KVyutmQlHasXRfw60ru36B7HOgvGy2KWpRCtDI1h5XfHsiEiuDERc3vcXxbfXVv3_ciuvZl4GnFdYeqlqAM3rIjJ0ctDkMonKjc6Cp_lYJ0cHnlhyqzEe9VeITxVVY8oMWH5gNflrx_BlfYmg53MQpXy6FzPioKlXEloPL5Ol0bf7ssUO/s4032/IMG_7930.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnHw-7BQJVFC4KVyutmQlHasXRfw60ru36B7HOgvGy2KWpRCtDI1h5XfHsiEiuDERc3vcXxbfXVv3_ciuvZl4GnFdYeqlqAM3rIjJ0ctDkMonKjc6Cp_lYJ0cHnlhyqzEe9VeITxVVY8oMWH5gNflrx_BlfYmg53MQpXy6FzPioKlXEloPL5Ol0bf7ssUO/w300-h400/IMG_7930.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">now I can unscrew the inner section of the pump<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div style="text-align: center;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQRs_TGGSgPNoaWKjv-Askl9jeCPi8ytee8paInilHvX27wvicR0GnHjAAY96CtUl65SkeMvABi_M0gr8oh2X_WIVmq-dJn0qqn5Ad52FEKBT2rMBSOWYt6SXReXf8l0qgvWcCzWQxRzVfj47eBzyPPl7coqJG1L_XLVBAcQ9uHHrFCAq5abfHRZ6tRYH-/s4032/IMG_7931.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQRs_TGGSgPNoaWKjv-Askl9jeCPi8ytee8paInilHvX27wvicR0GnHjAAY96CtUl65SkeMvABi_M0gr8oh2X_WIVmq-dJn0qqn5Ad52FEKBT2rMBSOWYt6SXReXf8l0qgvWcCzWQxRzVfj47eBzyPPl7coqJG1L_XLVBAcQ9uHHrFCAq5abfHRZ6tRYH-/w300-h400/IMG_7931.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">gently remove the core<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJ1JAyDusYsuoufrTLLrc-ekuA17JXWE4VKxCoP7DP2nzRDZizOgx-i1jIU8n0AWQKQmcJlsrgwOZCUp1n5Dl_v6XgptqEDNFbh-0rfcZvoBotrFQSndW_MKpXMnlAjguXyxgqNMsXbLf44jebxy8u58I7O-Xc0ZGwNFFLKuwRHKVVSvLqBoc-PtYETBF4/s4032/IMG_7932.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJ1JAyDusYsuoufrTLLrc-ekuA17JXWE4VKxCoP7DP2nzRDZizOgx-i1jIU8n0AWQKQmcJlsrgwOZCUp1n5Dl_v6XgptqEDNFbh-0rfcZvoBotrFQSndW_MKpXMnlAjguXyxgqNMsXbLf44jebxy8u58I7O-Xc0ZGwNFFLKuwRHKVVSvLqBoc-PtYETBF4/w300-h400/IMG_7932.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the moving part of the solenoid pump</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1lXLe07BD7bNhpMuBNWkXoYCcBhQPxPtHPLPCcQbfoa5d8fCmlIQZtAOkcyXqu_xfdShQZrbIkedbwRzc1HnLFG4txykQ-Gyz7U19XafwgLXWFd3UZvAu0xZ73Q91dS4Lfx7B4xB3RBzNQQviNugOjyg-WPYZPZKtLy7KUjTdla1_2RKCz-knVkUxCMmo/s4032/IMG_7933.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1lXLe07BD7bNhpMuBNWkXoYCcBhQPxPtHPLPCcQbfoa5d8fCmlIQZtAOkcyXqu_xfdShQZrbIkedbwRzc1HnLFG4txykQ-Gyz7U19XafwgLXWFd3UZvAu0xZ73Q91dS4Lfx7B4xB3RBzNQQviNugOjyg-WPYZPZKtLy7KUjTdla1_2RKCz-knVkUxCMmo/w300-h400/IMG_7933.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">photograph the O ring positions</td></tr></tbody></table><div style="text-align: center;"><br /><br /><br /></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKJlN6ZGF6XxX9xz4A_P4CvN-Ur9LRtUp9a0RzRps9IBQ1SAcTJVkZSXxHXMTRW9gJDH-ZVGCR8N7YeIt5LODZpQAGdJzFQ8DQYj-j3AQTNC54-PNq3RXWvjK_PfTvnlgRSzRjsS7UGbf36DnkJ53xKyR6s0_eVjIYlmr-O2SeZV1d7qZkuFbJkCmmoteJ/s4032/IMG_7934.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKJlN6ZGF6XxX9xz4A_P4CvN-Ur9LRtUp9a0RzRps9IBQ1SAcTJVkZSXxHXMTRW9gJDH-ZVGCR8N7YeIt5LODZpQAGdJzFQ8DQYj-j3AQTNC54-PNq3RXWvjK_PfTvnlgRSzRjsS7UGbf36DnkJ53xKyR6s0_eVjIYlmr-O2SeZV1d7qZkuFbJkCmmoteJ/w300-h400/IMG_7934.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">separate the parts and immerse them in a descaler such as white vinegar</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX98NpqCW81gVkUEEtxxNsgEu1SU1FM4vtseAZz_JLZ5RbwkR9anzZ7a8I8jnF5HVG0rmgPHU7ysdjefNSoozILGKqie3O0sK6RPPAVCWk1J6bXNGxahBUG7TOgsOxI-mzLbWbVx8PduynX1v4X4jJUGAbyJEJ1uA5eKuf9OmgEwHwaaettWduHD9E6CPk/s4032/IMG_7935.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX98NpqCW81gVkUEEtxxNsgEu1SU1FM4vtseAZz_JLZ5RbwkR9anzZ7a8I8jnF5HVG0rmgPHU7ysdjefNSoozILGKqie3O0sK6RPPAVCWk1J6bXNGxahBUG7TOgsOxI-mzLbWbVx8PduynX1v4X4jJUGAbyJEJ1uA5eKuf9OmgEwHwaaettWduHD9E6CPk/w300-h400/IMG_7935.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">be very gentle with the spring loaded part of the solenoid</td></tr></tbody></table><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiduKaqYJSOTaMqQ0fb1Bxi-3U7geBIHKVxEAxQf7CnhcJdWSbG8qUOfY7SUbWniqpk9AlT-eNo6vM7EGrFbHsMBUEubYwIUyf8XSP9bBA_QKzdsiIn4Z0WOjOYoPo2VsT1FgC0oOQNn_T-AfIf5mJ0CrZ_64YhlFgduZ6L8t5dTeC9z6t1AfmTvndAfz6W/s4032/IMG_7936.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiduKaqYJSOTaMqQ0fb1Bxi-3U7geBIHKVxEAxQf7CnhcJdWSbG8qUOfY7SUbWniqpk9AlT-eNo6vM7EGrFbHsMBUEubYwIUyf8XSP9bBA_QKzdsiIn4Z0WOjOYoPo2VsT1FgC0oOQNn_T-AfIf5mJ0CrZ_64YhlFgduZ6L8t5dTeC9z6t1AfmTvndAfz6W/w300-h400/IMG_7936.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">more washers and O rings</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8-H6ZHAOxXCNj1SUnQ2JG9v-DYYoyN1IGN7q4j6YJPIWYo3_xP_j0QNAUeTr8J4mpcd-IzK_F1IF8aBckTJrvRchwVpM83oVuGw5CTN-MqCGmStM4K6UObFYU5Cv5hnc9NIKqAUEDT8JnLns_2oE-XK6uV467sNdUfDYWlcKbOlUEsxmL_-UT6UydNq9n/s4032/IMG_7937.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8-H6ZHAOxXCNj1SUnQ2JG9v-DYYoyN1IGN7q4j6YJPIWYo3_xP_j0QNAUeTr8J4mpcd-IzK_F1IF8aBckTJrvRchwVpM83oVuGw5CTN-MqCGmStM4K6UObFYU5Cv5hnc9NIKqAUEDT8JnLns_2oE-XK6uV467sNdUfDYWlcKbOlUEsxmL_-UT6UydNq9n/w300-h400/IMG_7937.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Descale all the parts, then rinse in water and reassemble</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqYnZ20NAJYjOqLffY5VzRWa4cJ3t0CIIOtNNpgnB_ps4QO82RoRstYtBFSDhpTHH1okxFXNnXyXX2QMjFwzAmPCJ0QT42QXAzkh4zc-fHYvbmyUeS6viR502bSt4us4FqsaQUqRB32LYzQoJf6u4aBIcmuCykRKancUlbhiM0IepsJwLOzFBe1jAJKTDD/s4032/IMG_7938.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqYnZ20NAJYjOqLffY5VzRWa4cJ3t0CIIOtNNpgnB_ps4QO82RoRstYtBFSDhpTHH1okxFXNnXyXX2QMjFwzAmPCJ0QT42QXAzkh4zc-fHYvbmyUeS6viR502bSt4us4FqsaQUqRB32LYzQoJf6u4aBIcmuCykRKancUlbhiM0IepsJwLOzFBe1jAJKTDD/w300-h400/IMG_7938.jpg" width="300" /></a><br /><br /></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I made good the split pipe with some new silicone pipe , end-to-end. The size is 4mm inner diameter, with a 2mm wall thickness. Carefully refit the metal retaining clips to secure the pipes in place.<br /><br /><br /><br /><div style="text-align: left;">Once I had put everything back together, I ran some water through the steamer to prove that the pump was now able to pump water into the insulated boiler chamber. Once this was done I refilled the water reservoir with a descaling solution of acetic acid, or white vinegar and run the machine in bursts, so that descaler was pumped into the chamber , then allowed to work , then replaced. I did this over 4 hours with a few minutes on , then left off for 20.<br /><br />After this process the mop pumps steam as before</div></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br />Mr Iveshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14965084993191032538noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8000191682087974772.post-84228291110380194702023-11-28T09:54:00.040+00:002024-01-24T09:09:51.765+00:00The return of the Dell Dimension 2350<p>Back in 2008, I started this blog with a post about how my son and I attempted to tweak a humble Dell Dimension 2350 computer for PC gaming. See <a href="https://mr-ives.blogspot.com/2008/03/how-not-to-build-gaming-pc-from-dell.html">How to build a gaming PC from a Dell Dimension 2350</a>. By 2012 the PC was running very slow and was retired to the attic, being replaced with a mac mini for my son to use for schoolwork. I lamented the demise of this lovable old PC, and back then signed off with :<br /></p><blockquote>Who knows, perhaps one day to return , in its current guise or perhaps running a flavour of Linux, which might be another way to give it a new lease of life</blockquote><p><br />While recently reanimating another retired PC as a dedicated Folding server - see <a href="https://mr-ives.blogspot.com/2023/11/building-foldhome-dedicated-pc-server.html">Building a Fold@Home dedicated PC server which is also a space heater</a>, I spotted the old Dell and wondered if it too could be recycled doing something useful.<br /><br />I fetched it down, and acquainted myself with this old friend. My thinking was initially , that I'd redeploy it as another Fold@home server , running linux. It would be slow, but might work.<br /><br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsxZEK0nzDZwhhxCRbhhY5qpT6yJKcahLYmnKOk7u1ofQ75W7BXlnkYQgO9erB_mOghkDm4wsBKpJJs2PH7gKDR-FZnZllkbjP7SelIG945944-2GA-N6L1_J9eTVvjCI3m0p3DbmGjd76WhmSg8sAWRSOIs28GsDKROKUvZzz6wOqGc3fJaWVwgfGKB6U/s4032/IMG_7903.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsxZEK0nzDZwhhxCRbhhY5qpT6yJKcahLYmnKOk7u1ofQ75W7BXlnkYQgO9erB_mOghkDm4wsBKpJJs2PH7gKDR-FZnZllkbjP7SelIG945944-2GA-N6L1_J9eTVvjCI3m0p3DbmGjd76WhmSg8sAWRSOIs28GsDKROKUvZzz6wOqGc3fJaWVwgfGKB6U/w640-h480/IMG_7903.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I removed all the fans, HDD's and cleaned and reseated the P4 CPU heat sink with fresh thermal grease</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: left;"><div>A few challenges emerged though :</div><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>It is 32 bit and Fold@Home no longer support 32 bit Linux clients</li><li>It was IDE only</li><li>It wouldn't boot from USB. though the motherboard has USB support, not for booting. Any booting has to be from diskette, CD-drive, hard drive or LAN</li><li>The CD/DVD combo drive wouldn't read any CD's </li></ul>I looked around for Linux distributions that were lightweight, would boot from a LiveCD image (I had no DVD's to burn) and 32 bit. While there are a seemingly infinite number of Linux distros aimed at older /slower computers, actually very few meet the criteria above . Only Puppy Linux seemed to fit the bill, and I duly downloaded and burnt a CD.<br /><br />I swapped the CD drive over from the other PC mentioned above, and was able to boot Puppy Linux. initially it does not recognise the integrated graphics of the Dell motherboard, but it did recognise the Sparkle 8500 PCI (YES!) Graphics card, a repeating problem all the way back to 2002.<br /><br />It looked promising , but Puppy kernel panic'd repeatedly during the boot and I think it was struggling to run a live 32bit linux from CD with only 2Gb of memory on 20 year old hardware.<br /><br />I decided that the best way forward was to get a new disk to install on, and luckily enough there are cheap IDE-to-SATA adapter cards for £6 on ebay which I ordered along with a 120Gb SSD for £9.<br /><br />In hunting for a CD installable Linux, Debian 12 emerged as a good candidate, there is a 32 bit installer from CD which I downloaded and burnt on another computer while waiting for the parts to arrive.<br /><br /><br />From this point everything got a lot easier. The IDE-to-SATA adapter worked like a dream, recognised by the BIOS. The Debian install went very smoothly. I took pretty much all the defaults, the only changes being I elected for the Xfce window manager (the most lightweight) and I also selected the option to be an SSH server. My plan was to run this machine headless and ideally from the command line via ssh.<br /><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4e3yo3_D4tXOY6fXH4OO5H1r3L94cWUL_4uBeWIpFfKCamoFGufEubYn0Hgr60QD1Zm1LkkcQ0Pg0Ze6HIEdk5qEt4yKI55MqMd2Al0eAOXwhm58sp7AKOs8DEpuF6iaaGZumu36OImuc1v2rxvuEc2coTzJaA-cM8WLday-S6_Cq5gP6jrfm2XJL6Tkk/s4032/IMG_7920.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4e3yo3_D4tXOY6fXH4OO5H1r3L94cWUL_4uBeWIpFfKCamoFGufEubYn0Hgr60QD1Zm1LkkcQ0Pg0Ze6HIEdk5qEt4yKI55MqMd2Al0eAOXwhm58sp7AKOs8DEpuF6iaaGZumu36OImuc1v2rxvuEc2coTzJaA-cM8WLday-S6_Cq5gP6jrfm2XJL6Tkk/w480-h640/IMG_7920.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">NOTE Sata adapter in the IDE slot on the board and SSD positioned with cable ties on the front grille. Also note new BIOS backup battery, the old one was 21 years old !</td></tr></tbody></table><br /></div></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3olhDRWbI56R5wt9076zfPJc2LBQF3Ni3hMmSx9iBXenkVbR9EaTBt1jsD8RibbW30OL9QDUNdvdptGXMdOSesk5_LUKKNAbfDrhk8PMZHelY6hJjMs7aRJUpzfEwjp-2EX08dYJvPfevwWggYlpD3d9wtbWA-cZ7nKq_XfJQWgcM7fEDh18lcYctL3TR/s4032/IMG_7915.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3olhDRWbI56R5wt9076zfPJc2LBQF3Ni3hMmSx9iBXenkVbR9EaTBt1jsD8RibbW30OL9QDUNdvdptGXMdOSesk5_LUKKNAbfDrhk8PMZHelY6hJjMs7aRJUpzfEwjp-2EX08dYJvPfevwWggYlpD3d9wtbWA-cZ7nKq_XfJQWgcM7fEDh18lcYctL3TR/w640-h480/IMG_7915.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Debian install screen</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p>The install went flawlessly, and the Dell rebooted, being reborn as a Debian Linux PC.<br />the desktop Gui worked fine albeit rather slowly, but after I checked everything was OK, I reconfigured it to run non-gui from boot (<i>$ sudo systemctl set-default multi-user.target</i>) I installed the tightvncserver , in case I needed to remotely run any GUI tools from my mac mini desktop running a VNC viewer.</p><p>I had installed using a monitor plugged into the PCI Graphics card, which was now unused, so I removed it and confirmed the machine was happy to boot (it was) and I could access the console via the integrated graphics RGB.</p><p>When I was working on my Fold@home server, I looked at other similar projects and came across Berkeley Open Infrastructure for Network Computing or <a href="https://boinc.berkeley.edu/">BOINC</a>, as it is abbreviated .It's a framework for distributed computing, where various Science and research organisations can setup projects that BOINC can distribute and allow remote processing on. projects encompass medical research, Climate forecasting and Astrophysics. There are many projects available. Importantly for me it also still supports 32 bit computing and the boinc-client is installable directly from the Debian repository. I installed and configured it, the boing manager is a gui tool , but is only needed for configuration. You can also configure via the command line, but it's easier. I have initially setup two projects, and you need to initially register with each project website </p><h3 style="text-align: left;"><br /><a href="http://worldcommunitygrid.org/" style="font-size: medium;">worldcommunitygrid.org</a><br /><br /><a href="https://einsteinathome.org" style="font-size: medium;">einsteinathome.org</a><br /><p style="text-align: left;"><span><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-weight: normal;"><span>As with fold@home, BOINC uses the CPU, based on your configuration settings i.e how much and when. I'm happy for it to have maximum use of the CPU here. However on the other machines I can monitor cpu temperature and fan </span>speed</span><span style="font-family: inherit; font-weight: normal;">, and tweak these to achieve optimal setting of usage vs fan noise. However the Dell has no sensors on the motherboard or CPU to record temperature. The single case fan which doubles as a CPU fan has variable speed achieved using a </span><span style="font-family: inherit; font-weight: normal;">thermistor</span><span style="font-family: inherit; font-weight: normal;"> which </span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"> adjusts the voltage based on the exhaust air temperature and hence the fan RPM. Here the CPU will be running at 99% 24/7, so I needed to rethink the cooling a bit, while also hoping to make it quiet. Running BOINC the fan is quiet though audible, not bad for a 20+ year old device, but my next phase was to see how quiet I could make it ?</span><br /><br />Next step : Cooling<br /><br /><br /></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQBjqURGnyGsEJztlCSPUnMDNITtfaVqLN-xqHXKk4mtBH56YxLRjS8qVb8K2won3z2yDVDYfR7fC3HuguWwFtpWri7qrQaWb9lGcjSJhIgATG_Lj4lja8dCrAXPhQN3YK2wuTIDEhfQugvqZj2oEl4LkuqAlEnI4ZEIOMJonzg-frB-K9Z4h88ivR5W1H/s4032/IMG_7981.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQBjqURGnyGsEJztlCSPUnMDNITtfaVqLN-xqHXKk4mtBH56YxLRjS8qVb8K2won3z2yDVDYfR7fC3HuguWwFtpWri7qrQaWb9lGcjSJhIgATG_Lj4lja8dCrAXPhQN3YK2wuTIDEhfQugvqZj2oEl4LkuqAlEnI4ZEIOMJonzg-frB-K9Z4h88ivR5W1H/w300-h400/IMG_7981.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I fitted some nice mesh-style PCI slot covers</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHXI7RmAY2IWM7mAaC15IIfvAtZnHDYdNwV98yhPQea6QflQ3bMpIxOEY1rnu-iBkPWoq_AD6wRqVEiBFvHTfaV8lW6w5IuEssqNdizgOVSSsab4GHNDzdouJU77iuEbq2HGQEgAJriH5NDCoRVGsfBMgo_F0cE6f600bsUJ9rletz-XSGHCG9JKlw_yfN/s4032/IMG_7980.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHXI7RmAY2IWM7mAaC15IIfvAtZnHDYdNwV98yhPQea6QflQ3bMpIxOEY1rnu-iBkPWoq_AD6wRqVEiBFvHTfaV8lW6w5IuEssqNdizgOVSSsab4GHNDzdouJU77iuEbq2HGQEgAJriH5NDCoRVGsfBMgo_F0cE6f600bsUJ9rletz-XSGHCG9JKlw_yfN/w300-h400/IMG_7980.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">with the front panel removed you can see the large empty space where HDD and CD drive were, no a storage are for unused power supply cabling</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI1h2nlPU_9qJMhOUYGe9tvdU_T9Js_r_ivolWq15njrxe7zyri8LVPEpc_R0_28-6RjSWIV_M5-jJD7ySANB-fagziMBk8GJcbYa09ivZfUojCFRrafGt3PvWywFazYyFc6demeiyTzbkC4MiVoOCWcxvj3DPZWTjKY_EZyfFLGI6ZvalBG19Oq01JZeX/s4032/IMG_7979.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI1h2nlPU_9qJMhOUYGe9tvdU_T9Js_r_ivolWq15njrxe7zyri8LVPEpc_R0_28-6RjSWIV_M5-jJD7ySANB-fagziMBk8GJcbYa09ivZfUojCFRrafGt3PvWywFazYyFc6demeiyTzbkC4MiVoOCWcxvj3DPZWTjKY_EZyfFLGI6ZvalBG19Oq01JZeX/w300-h400/IMG_7979.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I also fitted mech blanking covers over the empty spaced in the front panel</td></tr></tbody></table></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span><span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgamWLMl1ipTLxSoeeEP4gcSyEYJ5SKJ2tzP5F10S08XraG_F16UmcQqyy3zPn1tCq0NhSR6ECiMWZoXijy5eeAtiJk2Vubes7Z2VbvpF6LGsAxeada2F7r59x5pbRO_iVhNtDgiWPDHfY4KhS65GdcqR88laWxWZvZton7Hu797PFCT46EF4vjl8KGSCjR/s4032/IMG_7982.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgamWLMl1ipTLxSoeeEP4gcSyEYJ5SKJ2tzP5F10S08XraG_F16UmcQqyy3zPn1tCq0NhSR6ECiMWZoXijy5eeAtiJk2Vubes7Z2VbvpF6LGsAxeada2F7r59x5pbRO_iVhNtDgiWPDHfY4KhS65GdcqR88laWxWZvZton7Hu797PFCT46EF4vjl8KGSCjR/w300-h400/IMG_7982.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spare cabling is quite a ball, but there is plenty of free space through it</td></tr></tbody></table><span><span style="font-size: large;"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUbnK6Z8x88gp_e32Xu6xJJcvLf5YaKIH-g1ghlPC7f1B6Z5WTczHdM2qq6xzdaRocUWJrbsiQHwOAggG_9780nUT1p71YNiGO4Kcu7FjX9W6vTMnox6cU8XxexVwk6JSGB-4_VgDXsvi2h6172AnRlwGdJ6Wf23R7k0XTUJYZM6RP8Dga5ZyOtlVY6XA-/s4032/IMG_7983.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUbnK6Z8x88gp_e32Xu6xJJcvLf5YaKIH-g1ghlPC7f1B6Z5WTczHdM2qq6xzdaRocUWJrbsiQHwOAggG_9780nUT1p71YNiGO4Kcu7FjX9W6vTMnox6cU8XxexVwk6JSGB-4_VgDXsvi2h6172AnRlwGdJ6Wf23R7k0XTUJYZM6RP8Dga5ZyOtlVY6XA-/w300-h400/IMG_7983.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMmGQfDtriHsBMuU70d_ZzkyBGgJ0DlFEixrinaxjp2ULrLmX0q72bb7I0gWTZn3wwEnY6ZQ2U6GuKYipRlr4Z3Fhi8HCD0eOpEpnD0yWbN1UsXeKXp-yEdVvcIbDXp8NzzNSgNIQi6A5agMj69ImbbtE4VEkdZN1kTHSTVE-nndKIzBL4DXitjgQXTkN_/s4032/IMG_7984.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMmGQfDtriHsBMuU70d_ZzkyBGgJ0DlFEixrinaxjp2ULrLmX0q72bb7I0gWTZn3wwEnY6ZQ2U6GuKYipRlr4Z3Fhi8HCD0eOpEpnD0yWbN1UsXeKXp-yEdVvcIbDXp8NzzNSgNIQi6A5agMj69ImbbtE4VEkdZN1kTHSTVE-nndKIzBL4DXitjgQXTkN_/w300-h400/IMG_7984.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The front mesh inserts were cheap from ebay, and weren't a great fit, but some hot glue sorted that out</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyWyKN-RyOvcVXJqQm9a3JVx1H1Lwu0ZDPdrtOv8qc42yU75MhfYjyp_hx3PZPGIljFgS6A8kQeMOxGDJXc1uQqVXUEPwRMMDFHgQjhzQo_yWbCaOjmEWUC13OW7bG-S9kcshiH18YFyPCKGWo0bTDoCvOBqSeIVif91hyO19W3MQ-mTxgC2VKQ9dM63gO/s4032/IMG_7985.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyWyKN-RyOvcVXJqQm9a3JVx1H1Lwu0ZDPdrtOv8qc42yU75MhfYjyp_hx3PZPGIljFgS6A8kQeMOxGDJXc1uQqVXUEPwRMMDFHgQjhzQo_yWbCaOjmEWUC13OW7bG-S9kcshiH18YFyPCKGWo0bTDoCvOBqSeIVif91hyO19W3MQ-mTxgC2VKQ9dM63gO/w300-h400/IMG_7985.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I replaced the fan with a standard 92mm case fan from Gelid. It fitted in the cowl perfectly. It doesn't have any speed control, its running full speed but its quieter than the old one</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht7FjwT8_4tdBNy3H8XpNVGMD9uvo6Em7MfWm_d0a7FEzLLUzEDWDjPjJhTXe2QAylq2Bo-8xCWVqi5sLO8wKBwXFtyFljfPCj7GFUbzVzYPXuuIOWlv5065n2SDX7xjBVwtDDUsOnFIIE6Se1TNIC-p3JeqtvWKvAV_Wq9_gnXMkmDBfmh5jyLlVN0W4X/s4032/IMG_7986.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht7FjwT8_4tdBNy3H8XpNVGMD9uvo6Em7MfWm_d0a7FEzLLUzEDWDjPjJhTXe2QAylq2Bo-8xCWVqi5sLO8wKBwXFtyFljfPCj7GFUbzVzYPXuuIOWlv5065n2SDX7xjBVwtDDUsOnFIIE6Se1TNIC-p3JeqtvWKvAV_Wq9_gnXMkmDBfmh5jyLlVN0W4X/w300-h400/IMG_7986.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Here we see the Dell sporting its new look and appropriately de-stickered of it's Windows inside verbiage</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7G_P2h5jR8SoTIZPfkzcoeS0P4jRj608j2aIvaruHij_SoQrZtRGMhyphenhyphenY3bQNYy0d4wJ8NkmMzDqjuf5Y9_U4hjVETBiLBShMg-AQuQA7J7-MDn8nbJIgdmQ_d05lQVsIC8PMUQmx62fsuQUmevwTxK6HfgMUecRizto76w51qLwLhLCU_Prm3LfI8tb1Z/s4032/IMG_7987.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7G_P2h5jR8SoTIZPfkzcoeS0P4jRj608j2aIvaruHij_SoQrZtRGMhyphenhyphenY3bQNYy0d4wJ8NkmMzDqjuf5Y9_U4hjVETBiLBShMg-AQuQA7J7-MDn8nbJIgdmQ_d05lQVsIC8PMUQmx62fsuQUmevwTxK6HfgMUecRizto76w51qLwLhLCU_Prm3LfI8tb1Z/w150-h200/IMG_7987.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rear view of PCI mesh blankers<br /><br />So far the machine has been running quietly , doing BOINC work<br /><br /><a href="https://einsteinathome.org/host/13165453/tasks/0/0">https://einsteinathome.org/host/13165453/tasks/0/0</a><br /><br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOwqNoaPQ2dsmNLXIo-wLE5jYllW7sYoN_oOK_GIb1KCAWOG6QzreEGK-4I_Mve1WaEVShM9rcf_Sme-yEesnzLf_15FODGSDkGLH1JhfORYkQlwohWCVeaCQrbTHvj0IrhQtAnUi6CKYOicYaaxQRhWz9WfU5ydCWiupljuc1gpg9Beco_1ZXo6QdD60u/s965/Screenshot%202023-12-14%20at%2022.42.54.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="762" data-original-width="965" height="506" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOwqNoaPQ2dsmNLXIo-wLE5jYllW7sYoN_oOK_GIb1KCAWOG6QzreEGK-4I_Mve1WaEVShM9rcf_Sme-yEesnzLf_15FODGSDkGLH1JhfORYkQlwohWCVeaCQrbTHvj0IrhQtAnUi6CKYOicYaaxQRhWz9WfU5ydCWiupljuc1gpg9Beco_1ZXo6QdD60u/w640-h506/Screenshot%202023-12-14%20at%2022.42.54.png" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /></span></span><p></p></h3><p></p><p></p><pre style="--theme-background-attachment: auto; --theme-background-color: hsl(0,0%,100%); --theme-background-position: top left; --theme-background-repeat: repeat; --theme-background-size: 21px 21px; --theme-base-primary-color-h: 204.24242424; --theme-base-primary-color-l: 27.64705882%; --theme-base-primary-color-s: 70.21276596%; --theme-body-font-color: var(--black-600); --theme-body-font-family: var(--ff-sans); --theme-button-active-background-color: var(--theme-primary-200); --theme-button-color: var(--theme-primary); --theme-button-hover-background-color: var(--theme-primary-100); --theme-button-hover-color: var(--theme-primary-400); --theme-button-outlined-border-color: var(--theme-primary-400); --theme-button-outlined-selected-border-color: var(--theme-primary-500); --theme-button-primary-active-background-color: var(--theme-primary-600); --theme-button-primary-active-color: var(--white); --theme-button-primary-background-color: var(--theme-primary-400); --theme-button-primary-color: var(--white); --theme-button-primary-hover-background-color: var(--theme-primary-500); --theme-button-primary-hover-color: var(--white); --theme-button-primary-selected-background-color: var(--theme-primary-600); --theme-button-primary-selected-color: var(--white); --theme-button-selected-background-color: var(--theme-primary-300); --theme-button-selected-color: var(--theme-primary-600); --theme-content-background-color: var(--white); --theme-content-border-color: hsl(210,8%,90%); --theme-footer-background-border-top: 0; --theme-footer-background-color: transparent; --theme-footer-background-position: top left; --theme-footer-background-repeat: no-repeat; --theme-footer-background-size: auto; --theme-footer-divider-color: hsl(210,8%,85%); --theme-footer-link-color-hover: hsl(210,8%,25%); --theme-footer-link-color: hsl(210,8%,25%); --theme-footer-padding-bottom: 0; --theme-footer-padding-top: 0; --theme-footer-text-color: hsl(210,8%,68%); --theme-footer-title-color: #155078; --theme-header-background-border-bottom: 0; --theme-header-background-color: transparent; --theme-header-background-position: center left; --theme-header-background-repeat: repeat; --theme-header-background-size: auto; --theme-header-foreground-color: transparent; --theme-header-foreground-position: bottom right; --theme-header-foreground-repeat: no-repeat; --theme-header-foreground-size: auto; --theme-header-link-color: var(--theme-primary); --theme-header-sponsored-color: hsl(210,8%,25%); --theme-link-color-hover: #1d6da3; --theme-link-color-visited: #061621; --theme-link-color: #155078; --theme-post-body-font-family: var(--ff-sans); --theme-post-owner-background-color: var(--theme-primary-100); --theme-post-owner-new-background-color: var(--theme-primary-200); --theme-post-title-color-hover: var(--theme-link-color-hover); --theme-post-title-color-visited: var(--theme-link-color-visited); --theme-post-title-color: #155078; --theme-post-title-font-family: var(--ff-serif); --theme-primary-custom-100: hsl(var(--theme-base-primary-color-h), var(--theme-base-primary-color-s), calc(var(--theme-base-primary-color-l) + ((100% - var(--theme-base-primary-color-l)) * .9))); --theme-primary-custom-200: hsl(var(--theme-base-primary-color-h), var(--theme-base-primary-color-s), calc(var(--theme-base-primary-color-l) + ((100% - var(--theme-base-primary-color-l)) * .75))); --theme-primary-custom-300: hsl(var(--theme-base-primary-color-h), var(--theme-base-primary-color-s), calc(var(--theme-base-primary-color-l) + ((100% - var(--theme-base-primary-color-l)) * .5))); --theme-primary-custom-400: hsl(var(--theme-base-primary-color-h), var(--theme-base-primary-color-s), var(--theme-base-primary-color-l)); --theme-primary-custom-500: hsl(var(--theme-base-primary-color-h), var(--theme-base-primary-color-s), calc(var(--theme-base-primary-color-l) + (var(--theme-base-primary-color-l) * -.3))); --theme-primary-custom-600: hsl(var(--theme-base-primary-color-h), var(--theme-base-primary-color-s), calc(var(--theme-base-primary-color-l) + (var(--theme-base-primary-color-l) * -.6))); --theme-primary-custom: var(--theme-primary-custom-400); --theme-tag-background-color: var(--theme-secondary-100); --theme-tag-border-color: transparent; --theme-tag-color: var(--theme-secondary-500); --theme-tag-hover-background-color: var(--theme-secondary-200); --theme-tag-hover-border-color: transparent; --theme-tag-hover-color: var(--theme-secondary-600); --theme-tag-required-background-color: var(--theme-secondary-500); --theme-tag-required-border-color: transparent; --theme-tag-required-color: var(--white); --theme-tag-required-hover-background-color: var(--theme-secondary-400); --theme-tag-required-hover-border-color: transparent; --theme-tag-required-hover-color: var(--white); --theme-topbar-bottom-border: none; border-radius: var(--br-md); border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; font-feature-settings: inherit; font-kerning: inherit; font-optical-sizing: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-variant-alternates: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variation-settings: inherit; line-height: var(--lh-md); margin-bottom: calc(1.5em); margin-top: 0px; max-height: 600px; overflow-wrap: normal; overflow: auto; padding: var(--su12); text-align: left; vertical-align: baseline; width: auto;"><code style="--theme-background-attachment: auto; --theme-background-color: hsl(0,0%,100%); --theme-background-position: top left; --theme-background-repeat: repeat; --theme-background-size: 21px 21px; --theme-base-primary-color-h: 204.24242424; --theme-base-primary-color-l: 27.64705882%; --theme-base-primary-color-s: 70.21276596%; --theme-body-font-color: var(--black-600); --theme-body-font-family: var(--ff-sans); --theme-button-active-background-color: var(--theme-primary-200); --theme-button-color: var(--theme-primary); --theme-button-hover-background-color: var(--theme-primary-100); --theme-button-hover-color: var(--theme-primary-400); --theme-button-outlined-border-color: var(--theme-primary-400); --theme-button-outlined-selected-border-color: var(--theme-primary-500); --theme-button-primary-active-background-color: var(--theme-primary-600); --theme-button-primary-active-color: var(--white); --theme-button-primary-background-color: var(--theme-primary-400); --theme-button-primary-color: var(--white); --theme-button-primary-hover-background-color: var(--theme-primary-500); --theme-button-primary-hover-color: var(--white); --theme-button-primary-selected-background-color: var(--theme-primary-600); --theme-button-primary-selected-color: var(--white); --theme-button-selected-background-color: var(--theme-primary-300); --theme-button-selected-color: var(--theme-primary-600); --theme-content-background-color: var(--white); --theme-content-border-color: hsl(210,8%,90%); --theme-footer-background-border-top: 0; --theme-footer-background-color: transparent; --theme-footer-background-position: top left; --theme-footer-background-repeat: no-repeat; --theme-footer-background-size: auto; --theme-footer-divider-color: hsl(210,8%,85%); --theme-footer-link-color-hover: hsl(210,8%,25%); --theme-footer-link-color: hsl(210,8%,25%); --theme-footer-padding-bottom: 0; --theme-footer-padding-top: 0; 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--theme-post-title-font-family: var(--ff-serif); --theme-primary-custom-100: hsl(var(--theme-base-primary-color-h), var(--theme-base-primary-color-s), calc(var(--theme-base-primary-color-l) + ((100% - var(--theme-base-primary-color-l)) * .9))); --theme-primary-custom-200: hsl(var(--theme-base-primary-color-h), var(--theme-base-primary-color-s), calc(var(--theme-base-primary-color-l) + ((100% - var(--theme-base-primary-color-l)) * .75))); --theme-primary-custom-300: hsl(var(--theme-base-primary-color-h), var(--theme-base-primary-color-s), calc(var(--theme-base-primary-color-l) + ((100% - var(--theme-base-primary-color-l)) * .5))); --theme-primary-custom-400: hsl(var(--theme-base-primary-color-h), var(--theme-base-primary-color-s), var(--theme-base-primary-color-l)); --theme-primary-custom-500: hsl(var(--theme-base-primary-color-h), var(--theme-base-primary-color-s), calc(var(--theme-base-primary-color-l) + (var(--theme-base-primary-color-l) * -.3))); --theme-primary-custom-600: hsl(var(--theme-base-primary-color-h), var(--theme-base-primary-color-s), calc(var(--theme-base-primary-color-l) + (var(--theme-base-primary-color-l) * -.6))); --theme-primary-custom: var(--theme-primary-custom-400); --theme-tag-background-color: var(--theme-secondary-100); --theme-tag-border-color: transparent; --theme-tag-color: var(--theme-secondary-500); --theme-tag-hover-background-color: var(--theme-secondary-200); --theme-tag-hover-border-color: transparent; --theme-tag-hover-color: var(--theme-secondary-600); --theme-tag-required-background-color: var(--theme-secondary-500); --theme-tag-required-border-color: transparent; --theme-tag-required-color: var(--white); --theme-tag-required-hover-background-color: var(--theme-secondary-400); --theme-tag-required-hover-border-color: transparent; --theme-tag-required-hover-color: var(--white); --theme-topbar-bottom-border: none; border-radius: 0px; border: 0px; box-sizing: inherit; font-feature-settings: inherit; font-kerning: inherit; font-optical-sizing: inherit; font-stretch: inherit; font-variant-alternates: inherit; font-variant-east-asian: inherit; font-variant-numeric: inherit; font-variation-settings: inherit; line-height: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;"><span><span style="background-color: white;"><div style="text-align: center;"></div></span></span></code></pre>Mr Iveshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14965084993191032538noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8000191682087974772.post-40362577483448914622023-11-02T14:28:00.020+00:002024-01-24T09:09:28.833+00:00Building a Fold@Home dedicated PC server which is also a space heater<p>This post is about a project I've recently worked on which was not as successful as I'd hoped, but worth documenting all the same.<br /><br />I wanted to make a PC server, using old parts I had and headless (no monitor), that just runs medical research workloads (<a href="https://foldingathome.org/">fold@home</a> aka FAH) and warms up my office in the process.<br /><br /></p><h3 style="text-align: left;">Background : Computers, waste heat and the data furnace </h3>I worked in IT for 35 years, and have always been interested in how computer systems deal with waste heat. Most server rooms or data centres need to be kept cool or the computers will fail. Computers turn 90%+ of the electricity they consume into heat, probably now closer to 99% with SSD technology, and in this regard they are no different to an electric heater. We've all probably felt the warm air coming from a games console fan, or had a laptop feel uncomfortably warm. Computers are great electric heaters. Waste heat is treated as an inconvenient by-product, it's not quite usefully hot enough, typically around 40 degrees C, and often the combined fan noise means you can't simply vent the air into an adjacent room. I worked in an office where we had small machine rooms containing computer servers, requiring local AC to be retro-fitted to dump the waste heat outside the building. These rooms were next to open-plan office areas , where some staff needed fan heaters to keep warm. Crazy.<br /><br />Some data centres do use excess heat to warm nearby buildings or water for swimming pools and most of the cloud providers have a few showcase examples. Sweden has a hot water grid in Stockholm, data centres heat water which is pumped around the city, heating buildings, and thus recycling this 'waste' heat, treating it as an asset. However these are exceptions rather than the norm<br /><br />Another approach is to perform the processing across distributed servers, that are then located where their heat can be put to useful work. A few examples I've found are :<br /><br /><a href="https://deepgreen.energy/">Deep Green</a> - They make data furnaces , small portable data centres that can be placed close to municipal swimming pools. They take the waste heat and pass it through heat exchangers and heat the water. The costs to the swimming pools is paid for by Deep Greens Cloud customers . <br /><br /><a href="https://qarnot.com/en/qalway">qarnot - qalway</a> - This French firm offer digital heaters and boilers. They are cloud on-premise servers which perform workloads for their cloud customers, such as video rendering. The waste heat is conducted away from the CPU and GPU cores and used to heat homes or hot water. Just like an electric space heater.<br /><br /><a href="https://www.heata.co/company/heata-unit">heata</a> - These are similar in concept to Deep Green, but much smaller and aimed at individual homes. They provide a computer-based hot water heater, just like an immersion heater. Overnight the unit runs workloads on behalf of their customers. The 'waste' heat passes via heat exchangers and heats the water in the tank. The homeowner is reimbursed for the cost of the electricity the heata unit consumes.<br /><br />This concept of distributing cloud data center workloads across servers located where their excess heat can be used is sometimes referred to as data furnaces or computational heating.<br /><br /><br /><h3 style="text-align: left;">Distributed Computing</h3><br />Certain problems lend themselves to an approach called distributed computing, where individual servers, PC's laptops request a packet of work from a central service, work on it, and upload the result when complete. Often the nature of the problem is it's too complex for single machines , but collectively 1000s of computers can complete the overall task in a fraction of the time. The most famous example was the SETI@home project, where computers would work through the huge backlog of space radio telescope data , looking for patterns . It was developed as a desktop screen saver which started when a computer was unused, taking over the CPU until the computer was needed again. Seti@Home stopped this approach a few years ago, but many other systems such as BOINC and <a href="https://foldingathome.org/?lng=en">Folding at home</a> (FAH) use this approach for medical research. <br /><br />FAH is solving various protein-folding problems which relate to the fight against diseases including covid, cancer and Alzheimer's. As with seti, a local client downloads a unit of work, processes it and returns the result. These tasks are highly CPU intensive and you can control how much resource they use and when they run. If run at maximum throughput they will use 100% of the CPU until complete. FAH Can also exploit modern Graphics Processor Units (GPU's), much as crypto-mining systems now do.<br /><h3 style="text-align: left;">Combining the two </h3>With a broken heating boiler, I started to wonder if I could use old computers to work on worthy projects like FAH ,but also generate some heat in my house as a useful byproduct. I reasoned that 350 watts of heat from an electric heater is no different from a 350 watts consuming computer. The latter could also be doing something worthwhile i.e medical research, rather than the heater which just uses some form of resistive element. Both consume 350 watts and convert 99% of it into heat, but one does something scientifically useful too. My house has a modern thermostat, so I reasoned the heating system would adapt to any extra secondary heat provided by other sources, as it does for fridges, TV's and other appliances that get warm.<br /><br />Some years ago , wondering what to do with a 2012 mac mini that one son had used for schoolwork and no longer needed, I set it up in my wifes office. This happens to be the coldest room in the house, and I wanted to see if the old Mac might make a difference to the temperature. I configured it for headless operation, where no monitor is connected, it just has mains cable and a network lead (though could use WiFi and simplify further. I manage it using Apple Screen sharing. It runs the Fold at Home mac client and is used for nothing else. It's been running at full power 24/7 for 4 years. <br /><br /><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhWItE3MbEQkUQpgf-Qd0IM2T7gR5jvMLDKWnjZTgbrzBgMx5KEMfWBZWoI0U9hVxpi45ICHpX2tahT3w25mEwcO66mLAQQIG9Dm8eKQ_-FJiky7_6dvljnzxUUPL4cQKZ_T_vX8QIC0U-j4dLizE2yawDOP9vNbwg7zFFTAtBV6iU9ibsvif6RtTQNnkJ/s1027/Screenshot%202023-11-02%20at%2014.19.01.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="787" data-original-width="1027" height="490" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhWItE3MbEQkUQpgf-Qd0IM2T7gR5jvMLDKWnjZTgbrzBgMx5KEMfWBZWoI0U9hVxpi45ICHpX2tahT3w25mEwcO66mLAQQIG9Dm8eKQ_-FJiky7_6dvljnzxUUPL4cQKZ_T_vX8QIC0U-j4dLizE2yawDOP9vNbwg7zFFTAtBV6iU9ibsvif6RtTQNnkJ/w640-h490/Screenshot%202023-11-02%20at%2014.19.01.png" width="640" /></a></div><br />The Intel Core i5 processor is reported to be at 90 degrees C and has been for 4 years. Impressive for a machine which still has a mechanical HDD inside - it just keeps going. The outer case of the mini is notably warm, and the wall opposite the slow running fan vent is also warm. The machine is otherwise silent, and important consideration as I didn't want to generate intrusive fan noise.<br /><br />Does it heat the room ? No, but clearly it contributes toward the heat of the room. the mac mini is a nice design where the Aluminium case acts as a large heat sink. I run the unit on its side to better improve airflow <br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHKl4fuS39EyZt_7-Ivjtg5_V5i0FArLQkwQBq8rxLCvbF43AQ2BrZa9kiN188GvsKBbMKJhGdAbDU6q4EFZJTQm2U3eJyomk_7y1Ifv6DDVwh-TuTZuEBSztPJQXxnN7zypMytn3QN9plZIxgFrBlXlx4PTWIPcDWZWZuII8h8ke5vf-In_3jqeNIaQ1L/s4032/unnamed%20(2).jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHKl4fuS39EyZt_7-Ivjtg5_V5i0FArLQkwQBq8rxLCvbF43AQ2BrZa9kiN188GvsKBbMKJhGdAbDU6q4EFZJTQm2U3eJyomk_7y1Ifv6DDVwh-TuTZuEBSztPJQXxnN7zypMytn3QN9plZIxgFrBlXlx4PTWIPcDWZWZuII8h8ke5vf-In_3jqeNIaQ1L/w480-h640/unnamed%20(2).jpeg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><br />I wondered if I could take this concept and improve it using an old gaming PC ? I was inspired by this blog <a href="https://greenfoldingathome.com/2020/05/25/how-to-make-a-foldinghome-space-heater-and-why-would-you-want-to/">How to Make a Folding@Home Space Heater (and why would you want to?)</a><br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLzxq8HZdq3rGEYhbQc4NwP0SS8xyNMuSiu1f4SJCFlQBCJsJyB6DUw4vHy_dCKJAW1z2lBzrbadxm4UVXCYrPzyZHtRUhiZkTy7AtFyReWsGKCLwLcRsdob_LX4qGZFVsSbDuSe6sd7C-uVBfuaCxi12VwNUzVy0uj1NBqb2IljE_0MDR1gfP9U90c2Or/s4032/IMG-7799.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLzxq8HZdq3rGEYhbQc4NwP0SS8xyNMuSiu1f4SJCFlQBCJsJyB6DUw4vHy_dCKJAW1z2lBzrbadxm4UVXCYrPzyZHtRUhiZkTy7AtFyReWsGKCLwLcRsdob_LX4qGZFVsSbDuSe6sd7C-uVBfuaCxi12VwNUzVy0uj1NBqb2IljE_0MDR1gfP9U90c2Or/w480-h640/IMG-7799.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><br />This machine was purchased as parts back around 2009. It houses an ASROCK 775dual-vsta motherboard with 2Gb of memory. It's an interesting transitional motherboard having PCI-E and AGP graphics slots, IDE and SATA disk connectivity, 2 types of memory slot and 4 PCI slots. it was chosen when a previous Compaq blew its power supply which was non-standard ATX. I choose this , rightly or wrongly on the basis that the maximum amount of kit could be migrated from the old into this.<br /><br />First of all I removed all the IDE disks and cables and fitted a small 64Gb SDD card which I purchased off ebay, reconditioned for £9. These are fast, cool and use less power.<br /><br />Next I removed the secondary case fans from the front and top of the unit. These were 'dumb' fans that lit up and ran at a fixed speed and contributed to the noise. My plan was that the machine should be as quiet as possible, and that the perforated design of the case panels would allow sufficient cooling.<br /><br />I initially used the old graphics card it still had from is previous use , a BFG Nvidia GeForce 7600 GT OC. This seemed to have issues with being discovered during the Peppermint Linux Install and X-windows gave a corrupted image on the screen. It was also very noisey from the GPU fan.<br /><br />I then remembered that we had a PCI Graphics card in another PC in the attic (<a href="https://mr-ives.blogspot.com/2008/03/how-not-to-build-gaming-pc-from-dell.html">Dell latitude mentioned in my blog on how not to build a gaming machine</a> ) a Sparkle 8500GT 256Mb PCI card (yes that really is PCI not PCI express). I tried this and still couldn't get linux to start X windows cleanly during the boot from a live USB image.<br /><br />I considered that in order to use the machine I was going to need a fanless GPU card anyway, so I purchased a second hand ASUS AMD Radeon HD 5450 1GD3 Graphics Card, which has a heatsink but no fan. It also also half sized board so the internal airflow should be better. The Peppermint 11 installer faired better here and I was able to install Linux with no issues.<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtUPAKXxUmyosTXaex4ixcCrCX1r_SE9ybRmVg8TY_QvoUsK_f5GaL3L0GzNKjMAHQtJXv4kfwrFOQulHNq-sepflKvYLsiMXaLPzq1znnF1sfiosMlwiXYoCjgT2vM4TMCUTtxPxMURFfBBaLeXUaVE9MiwJD3SZ5gE9lR5LQUOPaxT7OQ4meek8IziyD/s4032/IMG-7800.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtUPAKXxUmyosTXaex4ixcCrCX1r_SE9ybRmVg8TY_QvoUsK_f5GaL3L0GzNKjMAHQtJXv4kfwrFOQulHNq-sepflKvYLsiMXaLPzq1znnF1sfiosMlwiXYoCjgT2vM4TMCUTtxPxMURFfBBaLeXUaVE9MiwJD3SZ5gE9lR5LQUOPaxT7OQ4meek8IziyD/w480-h640/IMG-7800.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;">Here you can see both the AMD card in its PCI-E slot (upper red board) , and below it the Sparkle GeForce 8500 , which I initially left in place.</span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /><br />Having got a working linux server, I installed the Fold @Home client , ran it up, which confirmed that while a 2 core CPU was detected and usable, no GPU could be found. I tried various installs of drivers, etc, but the FAH Forum confirmed that none of these GPU cards would be recognised by FAH, being too old. That was a setback, but I decided that being old, there was little point in throwing more money at it.<br /><br />So the machine will run FAH 100% cpu on both cores, but not on the GPUs. After running for several hours the vented air from either the case fan or via the ATX power supply was not noticeably warm, but it's quite hard to tell. However 99% or so of the energy consumed by the PC is turned into heat in the process of performing FAH work, and it does this pretty silently.<br /><br />I decided to try measuring how much power the rig was consuming. It's not possible to do this from sensors, the only way is a plugin monitor at the socket. It stabilised at 94 Watts, which is lower than I expected, but with the two GPU's doing nothing much and a single SSD hard drive, it's not consuming very much.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5ZnmIFRFf29H78D5LT93qJUbgSC1w8aHh88pLxAaiIzcoU4ZX_Ws39pYxgDuy0xujjEfC3Ji_LGNyubw7SeewTCVZTXicw29GhVcSB0PnucYyr5cRi0Ojv8DJIj5vMaNbUw4fv4ldYV39lro9-sXQ-95dY2rjC_LextSfJGvQks2nvrvLTUuuqvmX-UQK/s4032/IMG_7808.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5ZnmIFRFf29H78D5LT93qJUbgSC1w8aHh88pLxAaiIzcoU4ZX_Ws39pYxgDuy0xujjEfC3Ji_LGNyubw7SeewTCVZTXicw29GhVcSB0PnucYyr5cRi0Ojv8DJIj5vMaNbUw4fv4ldYV39lro9-sXQ-95dY2rjC_LextSfJGvQks2nvrvLTUuuqvmX-UQK/w480-h640/IMG_7808.jpeg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><br />I also installed the linux lm-sensors package , and disabled the GUI as this would not be needed for normal headless operation. Lm-sensors once configured enables me to interrogate the various temperature and fan speed sensors in the machine with the <i>sensors</i> command .<br /><br /><p class="p1" style="background-color: black; color: #2fff12; font-family: "Andale Mono"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-variant-ligatures: no-common-ligatures;">$ sensors</span></p><p class="p1" style="background-color: black; color: #2fff12; font-family: "Andale Mono"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-variant-ligatures: no-common-ligatures;">w83697hf-isa-0290</span></p><p class="p1" style="background-color: black; color: #2fff12; font-family: "Andale Mono"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-variant-ligatures: no-common-ligatures;">Adapter: ISA adapter</span></p><p class="p1" style="background-color: black; color: #2fff12; font-family: "Andale Mono"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-variant-ligatures: no-common-ligatures;">in0: <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>1.30 V<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>(min =<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>+1.09 V, max =<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>+1.02 V)<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>ALARM</span></p><p class="p1" style="background-color: black; color: #2fff12; font-family: "Andale Mono"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-variant-ligatures: no-common-ligatures;">in2: <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>3.31 V<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>(min =<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>+0.26 V, max =<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>+0.00 V)<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>ALARM</span></p><p class="p1" style="background-color: black; color: #2fff12; font-family: "Andale Mono"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-variant-ligatures: no-common-ligatures;">in3: <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>2.91 V<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>(min =<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>+0.02 V, max =<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>+0.27 V)<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>ALARM</span></p><p class="p1" style="background-color: black; color: #2fff12; font-family: "Andale Mono"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-variant-ligatures: no-common-ligatures;">in4: <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>3.01 V<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>(min =<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>+0.13 V, max =<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>+0.00 V)<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>ALARM</span></p><p class="p1" style="background-color: black; color: #2fff12; font-family: "Andale Mono"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-variant-ligatures: no-common-ligatures;">in5: <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>3.01 V<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>(min =<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>+0.13 V, max =<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>+1.02 V)<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>ALARM</span></p><p class="p1" style="background-color: black; color: #2fff12; font-family: "Andale Mono"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-variant-ligatures: no-common-ligatures;">in6: <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>3.04 V<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>(min =<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>+0.00 V, max =<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>+1.02 V)<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>ALARM</span></p><p class="p1" style="background-color: black; color: #2fff12; font-family: "Andale Mono"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-variant-ligatures: no-common-ligatures;">in7: <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>3.17 V<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>(min =<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>+3.09 V, max =<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>+0.06 V)<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>ALARM</span></p><p class="p1" style="background-color: black; color: #2fff12; font-family: "Andale Mono"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-variant-ligatures: no-common-ligatures;">in8: <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>3.39 V<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>(min =<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>+0.00 V, max =<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>+0.06 V)<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>ALARM</span></p><p class="p1" style="background-color: black; color: #2fff12; font-family: "Andale Mono"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-variant-ligatures: no-common-ligatures;">fan1:<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>1577 RPM<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>(min = 84375 RPM, div = 8)<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>ALARM</span></p><p class="p1" style="background-color: black; color: #2fff12; font-family: "Andale Mono"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-variant-ligatures: no-common-ligatures;">fan2:<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>2008 RPM<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>(min = 1318 RPM, div = 8)</span></p><p class="p1" style="background-color: black; color: #2fff12; font-family: "Andale Mono"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-variant-ligatures: no-common-ligatures;">temp1:<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>+34.0°C<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>(high =<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>+0.0°C, hyst =<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>+0.0°C)<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>ALARM<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>sensor = thermistor</span></p><p class="p1" style="background-color: black; color: #2fff12; font-family: "Andale Mono"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-variant-ligatures: no-common-ligatures;">temp2:<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>+38.5°C<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>(high = +80.0°C, hyst = +75.0°C)<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>sensor = thermistor</span></p><p class="p1" style="background-color: black; color: #2fff12; font-family: "Andale Mono"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-variant-ligatures: no-common-ligatures;">beep_enable: enabled</span></p><p class="p2" style="background-color: black; color: #2fff12; font-family: "Andale Mono"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 20px;"><span class="s1" style="font-variant-ligatures: no-common-ligatures;"></span><br /></p><p class="p1" style="background-color: black; color: #2fff12; font-family: "Andale Mono"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-variant-ligatures: no-common-ligatures;">nouveau-pci-0300</span></p><p class="p1" style="background-color: black; color: #2fff12; font-family: "Andale Mono"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-variant-ligatures: no-common-ligatures;">Adapter: PCI adapter</span></p><p class="p1" style="background-color: black; color: #2fff12; font-family: "Andale Mono"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-variant-ligatures: no-common-ligatures;">GPU core:<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>1.32 V<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>(min =<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>+1.20 V, max =<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>+1.32 V)</span></p><p class="p1" style="background-color: black; color: #2fff12; font-family: "Andale Mono"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-variant-ligatures: no-common-ligatures;">temp1:<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>+64.0°C<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>(high = +95.0°C, hyst =<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>+3.0°C)</span></p><p class="p1" style="background-color: black; color: #2fff12; font-family: "Andale Mono"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-variant-ligatures: no-common-ligatures;"><span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>(crit = +125.0°C, hyst =<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>+2.0°C)</span></p><p class="p1" style="background-color: black; color: #2fff12; font-family: "Andale Mono"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-variant-ligatures: no-common-ligatures;"><span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>(emerg = +130.0°C, hyst = +10.0°C)</span></p><p class="p2" style="background-color: black; color: #2fff12; font-family: "Andale Mono"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 20px;"><span class="s1" style="font-variant-ligatures: no-common-ligatures;"></span><br /></p><p class="p1" style="background-color: black; color: #2fff12; font-family: "Andale Mono"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-variant-ligatures: no-common-ligatures;">radeon-pci-0200</span></p><p class="p1" style="background-color: black; color: #2fff12; font-family: "Andale Mono"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-variant-ligatures: no-common-ligatures;">Adapter: PCI adapter</span></p><p class="p1" style="background-color: black; color: #2fff12; font-family: "Andale Mono"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-variant-ligatures: no-common-ligatures;">temp1:<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>+46.0°C<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>(crit = +120.0°C, hyst = +90.0°C)</span></p><p class="p2" style="background-color: black; color: #2fff12; font-family: "Andale Mono"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 20px;"><span class="s1" style="font-variant-ligatures: no-common-ligatures;"></span><br /></p><p class="p1" style="background-color: black; color: #2fff12; font-family: "Andale Mono"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-variant-ligatures: no-common-ligatures;">coretemp-isa-0000</span></p><p class="p1" style="background-color: black; color: #2fff12; font-family: "Andale Mono"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-variant-ligatures: no-common-ligatures;">Adapter: ISA adapter</span></p><p class="p1" style="background-color: black; color: #2fff12; font-family: "Andale Mono"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-variant-ligatures: no-common-ligatures;">Core 0: <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>+56.0°C<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>(high = +78.0°C, crit = +100.0°C)</span></p><p class="p1" style="background-color: black; color: #2fff12; font-family: "Andale Mono"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-variant-ligatures: no-common-ligatures;">Core 1: <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>+60.0°C<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>(high = +78.0°C, crit = +100.0°C)</span></p><br />An interesting point is that while neither Graphics card was being used (X is disabled , so only a non-graphical login running) both GPUs were running warm, with the aged PCI card at 64 degrees C. I think this is just the idle current of having them plugged in and hence powered via the PCI interfaces. Both are passively cooled, with no local fan, only the case, CPU and PSU fans in operation. I could remove one of the graphics cards, which would fractionally reduce the power consumption, but initially decided to leave in place.<br /><br /><br />So, on the plus side I have a silent headless server that just sits there doing FAH work units for the benefit of medical science. It cost me a few pounds for the SSD and Radeon drive, both second hand from ebay. It consumes a small amount of electricity, which is all turned into heat, which must contribute to the temperature of the room. But not quite in the way my son's gaming rig can heat his room at maximum settings.<br /><br />I may revisit this concept again and it may be worth trying if you have a newer vintage gaming rig with GPU's that FAH can exploit.<br /><br />So a partial success I reckon ?<br /><h3 style="text-align: left;"><br />Update: 15th November 2023</h3><br />Enjoying this experiment I've tweaked a few things more<br /><br />1) I decided to remove the passively heating PCI Graphics card, which drops the servers power consumption to 80 watts under full load, 45 when idling. It served no purpose other than consuming , and radiating power, and I couldn't justify its inclusion. It will be reused on something else.<br /><br />2) as part of lm-sensors, it includes <i>fancontrol</i> and after come configuration I found I could run the case fan (FAN2) at minimum settings and still keep the cores at reasonable temperatures. the CPU fan is under automatic control from the BIOS. I figure under 70C is probably fine . The machine is whisper quiet even under full load. <br /><p class="p1" style="background-color: black; color: #2fff12; font-family: "Andale Mono"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-variant-ligatures: no-common-ligatures;">coretemp-isa-0000</span></p><p class="p1" style="background-color: black; color: #2fff12; font-family: "Andale Mono"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-variant-ligatures: no-common-ligatures;">Adapter: ISA adapter</span></p><p class="p1" style="background-color: black; color: #2fff12; font-family: "Andale Mono"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-variant-ligatures: no-common-ligatures;">Core 0: <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>+63.0°C<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>(high = +78.0°C, crit = +100.0°C)</span></p><p class="p1" style="background-color: black; color: #2fff12; font-family: "Andale Mono"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-variant-ligatures: no-common-ligatures;">Core 1: <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>+67.0°C<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>(high = +78.0°C, crit = +100.0°C)</span></p><p class="p2" style="background-color: black; color: #2fff12; font-family: "Andale Mono"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; min-height: 20px;"><span class="s1" style="font-variant-ligatures: no-common-ligatures;"></span><br /></p><p class="p1" style="background-color: black; color: #2fff12; font-family: "Andale Mono"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-variant-ligatures: no-common-ligatures;">w83697hf-isa-0290</span></p><p class="p1" style="background-color: black; color: #2fff12; font-family: "Andale Mono"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><br /></p><p class="p1" style="background-color: black; color: #2fff12; font-family: "Andale Mono"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-variant-ligatures: no-common-ligatures;">fan1:<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>1480 RPM<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>(min = 84375 RPM, div = 8)<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>ALARM</span></p><p class="p1" style="background-color: black; color: #2fff12; font-family: "Andale Mono"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-variant-ligatures: no-common-ligatures;">fan2:<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>1081 RPM<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>(min = 1318 RPM, div = 8)<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>ALARM</span></p><br /><br /><br /><p class="p1" style="background-color: black; color: #2fff12; font-family: "Andale Mono"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-variant-ligatures: no-common-ligatures;">$ cat /etc/fancontrol<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span></span></p><p class="p1" style="background-color: black; color: #2fff12; font-family: "Andale Mono"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-variant-ligatures: no-common-ligatures;"># Configuration file generated by pwmconfig, changes will be lost</span></p><p class="p1" style="background-color: black; color: #2fff12; font-family: "Andale Mono"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-variant-ligatures: no-common-ligatures;">INTERVAL=10</span></p><p class="p1" style="background-color: black; color: #2fff12; font-family: "Andale Mono"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-variant-ligatures: no-common-ligatures;">DEVPATH=hwmon0=devices/platform/coretemp.0 hwmon1=devices/platform/w83627hf.656</span></p><p class="p1" style="background-color: black; color: #2fff12; font-family: "Andale Mono"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-variant-ligatures: no-common-ligatures;">DEVNAME=hwmon0=coretemp hwmon1=w83697hf</span></p><p class="p1" style="background-color: black; color: #2fff12; font-family: "Andale Mono"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-variant-ligatures: no-common-ligatures;">FCTEMPS= hwmon1/device/pwm2=hwmon0/temp3_input</span></p><p class="p1" style="background-color: black; color: #2fff12; font-family: "Andale Mono"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-variant-ligatures: no-common-ligatures;">FCFANS= hwmon1/device/pwm2=hwmon1/device/fan2_input</span></p><p class="p1" style="background-color: black; color: #2fff12; font-family: "Andale Mono"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-variant-ligatures: no-common-ligatures;">MINTEMP= hwmon1/device/pwm2=60</span></p><p class="p1" style="background-color: black; color: #2fff12; font-family: "Andale Mono"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-variant-ligatures: no-common-ligatures;">MAXTEMP= hwmon1/device/pwm2=75</span></p><p class="p1" style="background-color: black; color: #2fff12; font-family: "Andale Mono"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-variant-ligatures: no-common-ligatures;">MINSTART= hwmon1/device/pwm2=150</span></p><p class="p1" style="background-color: black; color: #2fff12; font-family: "Andale Mono"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-variant-ligatures: no-common-ligatures;">MINSTOP= hwmon1/device/pwm2=0</span></p><br /><br />3) I pondered whether I could throttle the unit based on the UK CO2 generation mix. I've not yet implemented this, but wrote a script using curl and jq to extract a status from the <a href="https://carbonintensity.org.uk/">UK National Grid Carbon Intensity API</a>. Their API has a number of features, I decided to use there Regional value for me in the South of England with a postcode for me of GU51.<p class="p1" style="background-color: black; color: #2fff12; font-family: "Andale Mono"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-variant-ligatures: no-common-ligatures;">curl -s -X GET https://api.carbonintensity.org.uk/regional/postcode/GU51 <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>-H 'Accept: application/json'| jq -r '.[]| .[]| .data| .[]| .intensity.index'</span></p><br />This returns a word value for the level of CO2 in the electricity generation mix for my region , based on a postcode. Values range from very low,low, moderate, high, very high. My thinking was to pause FAH for any value above moderate, and shutdown for high and above. The South of England scores badly having little local wind or nuclear generating capacity, relying on Gas, Solar and the French ISA interconnect.<br /><br />4) I paired down the processes running on the machine . Removing some services for WPA and Wireless modems . I set <i>journald</i> to log into volatile memory, reducing the amount of disk IO. I added these lines to the journald.conf file<br /><br /><p class="p1" style="background-color: black; color: #2fff12; font-family: "Andale Mono"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-variant-ligatures: no-common-ligatures;">[Journal]</span></p><p class="p1" style="background-color: black; color: #2fff12; font-family: "Andale Mono"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-variant-ligatures: no-common-ligatures;">Storage=volatile</span></p><p class="p1" style="background-color: black; color: #2fff12; font-family: "Andale Mono"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-variant-ligatures: no-common-ligatures;">RuntimeMaxUse=128M</span></p><p class="p1" style="background-color: black; color: #2fff12; font-family: "Andale Mono"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-variant-ligatures: no-common-ligatures;">ForwardToSyslog=no</span></p><br /><br /><br />While not the crypto-rig of FAH severs, the machine will complete an FAH Unit around every 1.6 days, taking approx 23 minutes per 1% progress, which is not too bad<br /><br /><p class="p1" style="background-color: black; color: #2fff12; font-family: "Andale Mono"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-variant-ligatures: no-common-ligatures;">******************************* Date: 2023-11-15 *******************************</span></p><p class="p1" style="background-color: black; color: #2fff12; font-family: "Andale Mono"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-variant-ligatures: no-common-ligatures;">06:29:07:WU00:FS00:0xa8:Completed 475000 out of 2500000 steps (19%)</span></p><p class="p1" style="background-color: black; color: #2fff12; font-family: "Andale Mono"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-variant-ligatures: no-common-ligatures;">06:51:17:WU00:FS00:0xa8:Completed 500000 out of 2500000 steps (20%)</span></p><p class="p1" style="background-color: black; color: #2fff12; font-family: "Andale Mono"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-variant-ligatures: no-common-ligatures;">07:13:26:WU00:FS00:0xa8:Completed 525000 out of 2500000 steps (21%)</span></p><p class="p1" style="background-color: black; color: #2fff12; font-family: "Andale Mono"; font-feature-settings: normal; font-kerning: auto; font-optical-sizing: auto; font-size: 18px; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-alternates: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; font-variation-settings: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px;"><span class="s1" style="font-variant-ligatures: no-common-ligatures;">07:35:36:WU00:FS00:0xa8:Completed 550000 out of 2500000 steps (22%)</span></p><br />You can follow my FAH results here <a href="https://stats.foldingathome.org/team/1060769">Team Ives-Towers</a><br /><br /><h4 style="text-align: left;">Update 24th November</h4><br />I tweaked a few more things on linux, replacing ntpd, which seemed to use quite a lot of cpu, with chrony, which I simply installed and it self-configured, replacing ntpd.<br /><br />I also fitted mesh blanking plates I found on ebay very cheaply, to both rear PCI slots and the now vacant front DVD bay, as I needed the player for another project .....<br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0PplMMgMetc5JUVa3Usm64YM1vZ_YK1sSQUr_sxKrU5xOoUZ6lUp0vxVGfFJVM8BmiNTBs_YEHIRsq2szmldPLnJ5d-OID4XyM5A9h1u4xx4hBM2z1iLsGSjOPeMW2qLeyikSArlbx9DBsKFd3Xo7xlliNzpoMNs_Pbbzq7ho50tIdF13SVOyFJOCAdn4/s4032/IMG_7894.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0PplMMgMetc5JUVa3Usm64YM1vZ_YK1sSQUr_sxKrU5xOoUZ6lUp0vxVGfFJVM8BmiNTBs_YEHIRsq2szmldPLnJ5d-OID4XyM5A9h1u4xx4hBM2z1iLsGSjOPeMW2qLeyikSArlbx9DBsKFd3Xo7xlliNzpoMNs_Pbbzq7ho50tIdF13SVOyFJOCAdn4/w480-h640/IMG_7894.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigTJCcX2UhZaJVcE8Akq9AhlBumGOeOLQx8Ly-DBE9afrDYJ5lJND1s3lRC2apJQeNsSXvcAfWU4GH6Sj2_HRcNBD849t0bLaOwjf5LvUFNmjfg3viWvbBW0rssoEA8BZzVfKwlaLx-mbOabP6WEWZeNs8ILl-TYmpdu8dfl5IxtiBlZHK8jL0aQRKbzi3/s4032/IMG_7895.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigTJCcX2UhZaJVcE8Akq9AhlBumGOeOLQx8Ly-DBE9afrDYJ5lJND1s3lRC2apJQeNsSXvcAfWU4GH6Sj2_HRcNBD849t0bLaOwjf5LvUFNmjfg3viWvbBW0rssoEA8BZzVfKwlaLx-mbOabP6WEWZeNs8ILl-TYmpdu8dfl5IxtiBlZHK8jL0aQRKbzi3/w480-h640/IMG_7895.jpg" width="480" /></a><br /><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Finally I configured FAHControl on my desktop machine to remotely access the farm of clients I'm now running. There is a very good guide on how to do this <a href="https://linustechtips.com/topic/990176-howto-remotely-access-your-folding-systems-part-1-fahcontrol/">here</a> by Linus Tech Tips member Gorgon<br /><br /><br /><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXNP9PtzK7LbPoFANV4EIH4bR0zMW4tqqmbxBJFQyuk80e4B1G3TxdJw417UQyPCKo48N6uOQytVYyvZKN1eu-fKC9grN16uQ1BrnbAI0lzQS4tjOZ7qLbn6Cpk-JEX8c8RGq1pOiyXZbNB2Vg4k_l-z0LH-ZqrPlCOXVPDqNSiDR1xe_MXdbIeAmrFyHl/s1920/Screenshot%202023-11-24%20at%2017.29.49.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1920" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXNP9PtzK7LbPoFANV4EIH4bR0zMW4tqqmbxBJFQyuk80e4B1G3TxdJw417UQyPCKo48N6uOQytVYyvZKN1eu-fKC9grN16uQ1BrnbAI0lzQS4tjOZ7qLbn6Cpk-JEX8c8RGq1pOiyXZbNB2Vg4k_l-z0LH-ZqrPlCOXVPDqNSiDR1xe_MXdbIeAmrFyHl/w640-h360/Screenshot%202023-11-24%20at%2017.29.49.png" width="640" /></a></div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /></div><br />Mr Iveshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14965084993191032538noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8000191682087974772.post-20875994167402378992023-10-30T21:13:00.012+00:002023-11-03T22:00:06.807+00:00Fixing an intermittent ViewSonic LCD Computer Monitor VX924 VS10162<p>I recently decided to dust off an old gaming PC from around 2006 that was in the attic. <br /><br />I'm interested in <a href="https://foldingathome.org">folding@home</a> , a way of assisting medical science donating computer time from home , and wanted to see if I could build a dedicated FAH (Fold at Home) rig using spare hardware we had. I'm also interested in computational heating i.e better exploiting the waste heat from computer systems . This will be the subject of another blog shortly, but when I got this PC down and booted it up, I immediately hit an issue with the LCD screen. It kept turning on and off approximately every second , but sometimes staying on for longer. I could see the boot screen, the BIOS and eventually the windows logo, but the screen wouldn't stay on. Very frustrating<br /><br />I later realised that if I left the monitor on for at least an hour it would stabilize and become usable.<br /><br />I looked around on the internet and realised this was probably a problem with the capacitors in the power supply. If you have read my other blog about repairing some M-Audio BX5a speakers , they hit a problem , similar in cause, bulging power supply capacitors.<br /><br />The monitor is from 2006 and not super high res, but I didn't want to throw it out for the price of a few caps so decided to have a look inside. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbRToakpzF4KgKGHvt4sRy_SNyY278G4_gckAm8kDFgHxa5CGpUcx6MSrgo4N1p22r4ZzzmxFP1xCFCOATnGYFq2x4e7aifp_AmXqN0GoJux0vbkucWhRpKWgrT-_p87jXlPoJfarU22Xt2m4_niLQS7ldKDOtS9C_0_1c-PAkkCX88Voh4dJbkukZQRBv/s4032/unnamed%20(2).jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbRToakpzF4KgKGHvt4sRy_SNyY278G4_gckAm8kDFgHxa5CGpUcx6MSrgo4N1p22r4ZzzmxFP1xCFCOATnGYFq2x4e7aifp_AmXqN0GoJux0vbkucWhRpKWgrT-_p87jXlPoJfarU22Xt2m4_niLQS7ldKDOtS9C_0_1c-PAkkCX88Voh4dJbkukZQRBv/w480-h640/unnamed%20(2).jpeg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><br /><br />First disconnect the monitor from the power and the PC. I laid it face down on a soft towel on the table and removed 4 screws holding the back panel on. This could then be unclipped gently around the edge.<br /><br /><br /><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVW60k_-iSgoluIjS29XX56sFww2_Bo6y1vysv9JMTmSFoiMv3L-4zeu47Qsi49v-aMHba0oLN13gQ-nC0hTqtPyOhbwEOLxmJNov2VCuCs1JsHghj0l6h-h-aG8VobRtupUhSL1ZZxfU4Ks2shc6hp7IKlRN0cQJZNpiumAKEbM3uczTFb6jHzI47TphS/s4032/IMG-7753.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVW60k_-iSgoluIjS29XX56sFww2_Bo6y1vysv9JMTmSFoiMv3L-4zeu47Qsi49v-aMHba0oLN13gQ-nC0hTqtPyOhbwEOLxmJNov2VCuCs1JsHghj0l6h-h-aG8VobRtupUhSL1ZZxfU4Ks2shc6hp7IKlRN0cQJZNpiumAKEbM3uczTFb6jHzI47TphS/w480-h640/IMG-7753.jpeg" width="480" /></a></div><p></p>the electronics on the back of the screen is protected by a metal box section, and again some screws hold this in place. There are also some adhesive foil screening material used to bond protect some of the cables from interference. I teased this back, planning to refix it in place after.<br /><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx_9z0x_IfIsLY59wxQXp8uu9LciXhRgPIGZrFDADUJdaKzJcFT801u2dSh2dXSu-DM4yQw9Bd-K84-5Ohhkfnt8ZmNSR92RtBHzmCq5wtBsBOAmLgK1-E6JMVx8AgR7sSEM8dJ3R9GtdMEZwr8OMI5pLHVPXlwNKkGIydbtjtQXJTDrpEm9ZNNmqOsqdX/s4032/IMG-7754.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx_9z0x_IfIsLY59wxQXp8uu9LciXhRgPIGZrFDADUJdaKzJcFT801u2dSh2dXSu-DM4yQw9Bd-K84-5Ohhkfnt8ZmNSR92RtBHzmCq5wtBsBOAmLgK1-E6JMVx8AgR7sSEM8dJ3R9GtdMEZwr8OMI5pLHVPXlwNKkGIydbtjtQXJTDrpEm9ZNNmqOsqdX/w480-h640/IMG-7754.jpeg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div>With the metal box screen removed I could see the two neat circuit boards, the left having the power supply functions (Top in the picture), the right the display and logic. Some gold pins and socket linked the two boards, and removing 4 additional screws enabled me to lift the power supply board away from the other board, for closer inspection. It remained tethered by a number of cable assemblies but I was able to invert it to access the underside of the board.<br /><br /><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtZ7wgk5LNSwLeUtTyNIrxAskONUkc1gTOXsibQXIYHX6_51-sNZKId1MdUkMiYNXhwOl8RYcDDxymr0j1gvkIHD4xG4CysSG2bCGmirieJmM1v6c5EqrsR0mtiRJbqQC7cSMRUBLkzrq786iAQPbWLnDcHcM3eTrMfym0Ablkoh6jMoWMfwULO04J1dYv/s4032/IMG-7755.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtZ7wgk5LNSwLeUtTyNIrxAskONUkc1gTOXsibQXIYHX6_51-sNZKId1MdUkMiYNXhwOl8RYcDDxymr0j1gvkIHD4xG4CysSG2bCGmirieJmM1v6c5EqrsR0mtiRJbqQC7cSMRUBLkzrq786iAQPbWLnDcHcM3eTrMfym0Ablkoh6jMoWMfwULO04J1dYv/w640-h480/IMG-7755.jpeg" width="640" /></a></div>I could see immediately that two identical power supply capacitors exhibited bulgin at the tops. No electrolyte had leaked , but the silver part at the top of the can was certainly not flat.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNdCEg0Rv2heN2mjDQmUCa252FW_2AY8UIUEVZZN2_eqrpzht0HQZKcNka0oDNDjMa83QNQR-6tamOXHcmuKMZG-RnPCI4x5FyQNdrtti4JM_3uEQFxTb0JqzrdEG64am-9mEV_k7Nxsp9E8IwvPYK4917j9Po8StLBU6EJ-uG7M22-QkUqgA-YwRsBAo0/s4032/IMG-7756.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNdCEg0Rv2heN2mjDQmUCa252FW_2AY8UIUEVZZN2_eqrpzht0HQZKcNka0oDNDjMa83QNQR-6tamOXHcmuKMZG-RnPCI4x5FyQNdrtti4JM_3uEQFxTb0JqzrdEG64am-9mEV_k7Nxsp9E8IwvPYK4917j9Po8StLBU6EJ-uG7M22-QkUqgA-YwRsBAo0/w640-h480/IMG-7756.jpeg" width="640" /></a></div><br />In addition a 3rd capacitor, wrapped in some kind of heat shrink, also exhibited the same problem<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM6AH4YZH7zvOTyzWKte-NZfDX9wXmhcJPOXUTUlRcFtPE7_r2K_CJTgn3wC5TbePfGRh3ucbZKmxnKx2rHypjZw4FYULD-jBtZETuFiyshAR3jk9gFck7isD53ao0UGinrd6EynbIC7xi3QMoZXQ_wTXie4KbdFTmxt2vFjWncogoUkXPR27gfCouPM6D/s4032/IMG-7757.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM6AH4YZH7zvOTyzWKte-NZfDX9wXmhcJPOXUTUlRcFtPE7_r2K_CJTgn3wC5TbePfGRh3ucbZKmxnKx2rHypjZw4FYULD-jBtZETuFiyshAR3jk9gFck7isD53ao0UGinrd6EynbIC7xi3QMoZXQ_wTXie4KbdFTmxt2vFjWncogoUkXPR27gfCouPM6D/w480-h640/IMG-7757.jpeg" width="480" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwkC6dyaYiBAz9JzFTEdl37A_jSLlubjv7aP8kPgr4zy0lHaMU2oEe_O9VrA8MQkbfHt-2a-sd0VajfluV-seW_gSEEAx9tpjlOLge8oINhuqrRR9DWyYJC5oqg81lldEmi3P9a3IKTOaY_8lcYEB2uM3slR4Kf1JWNUoWz97NWcE8qtYaixqgJjhLCkzv/s4032/IMG-7758.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwkC6dyaYiBAz9JzFTEdl37A_jSLlubjv7aP8kPgr4zy0lHaMU2oEe_O9VrA8MQkbfHt-2a-sd0VajfluV-seW_gSEEAx9tpjlOLge8oINhuqrRR9DWyYJC5oqg81lldEmi3P9a3IKTOaY_8lcYEB2uM3slR4Kf1JWNUoWz97NWcE8qtYaixqgJjhLCkzv/w480-h640/IMG-7758.jpeg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">So I reckoned these might be why the monitor kept switching on and off. I desoldered the 3 caps using my trusty old soldering iron, and a mechanical solder sucker, and found it pretty easy to pull the offending caps down while inverted and softening the soldering iron to loosen their connection<br /><br />They came out quite easily. each had a blob of some kind of adhesive next to it, but this crumbled<br /><br /><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhshWI-yZQiwZ4Joxcoedd4HQbqDogaE9xpXAr8tL6RoV7aDBpbqNqS2JgRa_wyFLZyjPHy5hvHUhoLXoZudJcTjnBk616xc-cO2TNK-flTQax59Ff3Nghyphenhyphenrglqw8pbuRAAHtIR0OrhnWgpDcxUUamOc3yueU7a-A7l8XT5nQKCqRBNICTbmHJ3FtTxSZTl/s4032/IMG-7760.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhshWI-yZQiwZ4Joxcoedd4HQbqDogaE9xpXAr8tL6RoV7aDBpbqNqS2JgRa_wyFLZyjPHy5hvHUhoLXoZudJcTjnBk616xc-cO2TNK-flTQax59Ff3Nghyphenhyphenrglqw8pbuRAAHtIR0OrhnWgpDcxUUamOc3yueU7a-A7l8XT5nQKCqRBNICTbmHJ3FtTxSZTl/w480-h640/IMG-7760.jpeg" width="480" /></a><br /><br /><div style="text-align: left;">The caps were two 470uF 25V Radial 105 degrees Centigrade (Max operating temp) and one 330uF 25v Radial 105 degree cap. I ordered replacements from <a href="https://www.cricklewoodelectronics.com/">Cricklewood Electronics</a> which came in a few days and cost very little. I like Cricklewood , service is good and they are happy to sell you a single capacitor, no need to order more than I need.<br /><br /><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ8yalWZYKk_KJ8rxgSjY-TPXZ1lEoJxSHIgNmmvo_rZd7r91wZHojPpCqTdOIZ_jiYh8lOuNt7ce4gQf70nrgeqyhpZY6PJNNYK2Cyf8JJ3hrW2ydMr9U-r0nfRhybUklvhrJZE8f0a5vz7Jv0pmgWZOwwJVlaDAmO5PFlTOKTZb9PkZkI-0knCJXP-7x/s4032/IMG-7772.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ8yalWZYKk_KJ8rxgSjY-TPXZ1lEoJxSHIgNmmvo_rZd7r91wZHojPpCqTdOIZ_jiYh8lOuNt7ce4gQf70nrgeqyhpZY6PJNNYK2Cyf8JJ3hrW2ydMr9U-r0nfRhybUklvhrJZE8f0a5vz7Jv0pmgWZOwwJVlaDAmO5PFlTOKTZb9PkZkI-0knCJXP-7x/w480-h640/IMG-7772.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">When the replacement caps arrived, I fitted their leads through the holes. I'd taken note of the polarity (the white stripe down one side of the can denotes the negative terminal. However the circuit board also had indications of the polarity where they sat, with a cross hatched marking for a segment of the circle corresponding to the negative terminal. taking photos during the removal is always a good idea.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRI3r97ZZtm163uXpPB6EHb8P7IhTDDzf5wuNqJTQXR1aA0r72LORJXBMBN3gCkLnJHPts0o4eF3EFGNRH-bryi_qtO0rzlxRaruheMg5ZiEyaAU_cSJhxL_uOxJbnKs_Fz7BuDHM5-SKX_ZWNfYC0SEFRm6e1aMxq7IVfRAH4gVIPOEuv9EW6786AZg3r/s4032/IMG-7773.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRI3r97ZZtm163uXpPB6EHb8P7IhTDDzf5wuNqJTQXR1aA0r72LORJXBMBN3gCkLnJHPts0o4eF3EFGNRH-bryi_qtO0rzlxRaruheMg5ZiEyaAU_cSJhxL_uOxJbnKs_Fz7BuDHM5-SKX_ZWNfYC0SEFRm6e1aMxq7IVfRAH4gVIPOEuv9EW6786AZg3r/w480-h640/IMG-7773.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div>I resoldered the leads, and cut the excess wire from each. I fitted some heat shrink insulation around the cap that appeared to have additional insulation around it. It looked intentional and original, perhaps to protect it from the inductor next to it (Copper wire coil around a carbon core) <div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-mc6-NQdJXdfXiXtDlFH36H8jN5UlDrF4Sd9jokFaQyIghWpKtaJeutqdVQ97fZraQtsB1jBPquF3VoBuC4NbQZDKIRZEuQTpl6Jbxjuy-0cogBxm_gzERZ4lRwlEJhRr2uryE-WxtXvsH4qEIaCFJWPIVDPtIHdVqu9WdR8ApjhvduNskd9WVzDB503s/s4032/IMG-7774.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-mc6-NQdJXdfXiXtDlFH36H8jN5UlDrF4Sd9jokFaQyIghWpKtaJeutqdVQ97fZraQtsB1jBPquF3VoBuC4NbQZDKIRZEuQTpl6Jbxjuy-0cogBxm_gzERZ4lRwlEJhRr2uryE-WxtXvsH4qEIaCFJWPIVDPtIHdVqu9WdR8ApjhvduNskd9WVzDB503s/w640-h480/IMG-7774.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div>I then refitted the Power Supply circuit board back connected to the logic board and refitted both the 4 screws that held it in place and then refitted the cover , making sure all the foil screen pieces pressed back.<br /><br /><br /><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUY2HDtSVMTF6fF-NVLhSJu-T9LTgyEfhjTawqo9t6UPpJ7XjDGVNZc6BkYdGx8vOjUwuVrf53Xjwj_iVaT70IEhRs9SvG3-Dk1U81b5B99vDr6dupSJDJ4-c7Xj0mPY-xo-h0h-ogCTnOlbBNwoowGypjC8T7d6LmIZSLnfjpwJFU3T3V_ZPpBVS_1Jqr/s4032/IMG-7775.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="4032" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUY2HDtSVMTF6fF-NVLhSJu-T9LTgyEfhjTawqo9t6UPpJ7XjDGVNZc6BkYdGx8vOjUwuVrf53Xjwj_iVaT70IEhRs9SvG3-Dk1U81b5B99vDr6dupSJDJ4-c7Xj0mPY-xo-h0h-ogCTnOlbBNwoowGypjC8T7d6LmIZSLnfjpwJFU3T3V_ZPpBVS_1Jqr/w640-h480/IMG-7775.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I fitted the back to the screen, refitted the remaining screws and plugged both the signal and power leads back into the monitor. It immediately stayed on, no flickering and has worked perfectly since, so a correct diagnosis and easy fix. Very pleased to have saved this old monitor for a few pounds worth of caps and a bit of soldering.</div>Mr Iveshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14965084993191032538noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8000191682087974772.post-11011923450539583252020-12-27T09:38:00.006+00:002020-12-27T09:43:31.674+00:00Bracing IKEA EXPEDIT or KALLAX cabinets for greater rigidity when used with a turntable<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXZ2kZtxfYfEJkGdKIy41n__a1SCExR6CLND11I_Tr3F9H7eBGPteQfeIchtO3v1sFxOMuNEYSiDC_rVFxheghQWWRtxGrMQdxrwsYRWdinjWDXdzm-jBF09ddSR2vhff6Ny0zoEXvSE_R/s2048/IKEA_EXPEDIT_KALLAX_SUPPORTING_VINYL_TURNTABLE.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="IKEA EXPEDIT record storage and turntable support" border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXZ2kZtxfYfEJkGdKIy41n__a1SCExR6CLND11I_Tr3F9H7eBGPteQfeIchtO3v1sFxOMuNEYSiDC_rVFxheghQWWRtxGrMQdxrwsYRWdinjWDXdzm-jBF09ddSR2vhff6Ny0zoEXvSE_R/w640-h480/IKEA_EXPEDIT_KALLAX_SUPPORTING_VINYL_TURNTABLE.JPG" title="IKEA EXPEDIT record storage and turntable support" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The inevitable problem, too many records. <br />Turntable and amplifier on top</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>Like many record collectors around the world, I have a number of IKEA cube cabinets from both their EXPEDIT (older) and KALLAX (newer) ranges. These are easy to make, cheap to buy and perfect for record storage.<br /><br />The system comes flat packed and uses bolts and dowels to hold the system together. If you follow the instructions the system is strong and should not collapse. You can augment the joints with PVA wood glue for extra strength.<br /><br />My turntable sits on top of an EXPEDIT 2x4 cabinet, laid along the long side, with some felt feet to support it from the floor, and you can use KALLAX in the same way. It's been great but has two problems I wanted to address :<br /><br /><br />1) Because the system has no back panel, the records can be pushed too far back.<br /><br /><br />2) While the structure is strong and fairly rigid, there was some lateral movement. With heavy equipment on top, I found that if I nudged or knocked either top side, this allowed a degree of sideways sway in the unit which would cause my turntable to wobble. It's a Thorens deck with a suspended sub chassis, and while immune to most vibration, doesn't like this kind of sudden sideways movement. To be precise the rectangular shape of the unit can slightly become a parallelogram, if shoved. The unit was put together correctly with the internal bracing shelves the correct way round, and with glue along seams, everything is tight. It's just a consequence of the type of construction system used, and is only an issue if you have a turntable resting on it <br /><br /><br />So I'd been thinking about how I could add additional bracing to stiffen the unit. I found some plastic board that had been used for some roofing soffits, though any hardboard or plywood should work.<br /><br />My speakers sit on two seperate KALLAX 2x1 units as stands , quite close. I was concerned that if I used a single piece of board to cover the entire back of the EXPEDIT, it might resonate . Hence I decided to apply a central brace spanning both the top section of the lower row and the lower section of the upper row. This braces the unit laterally , stops the records from sliding too far back AND does not create a large "drum skin" on the back of the unit.<br /><br />I cut the spare piece of plastic board, which is approx 5mm thick, light but rigid laterally. I screwed this to the back along the centerline. I used a fine drill bit to drill pilot holes and short Philips screws to hold it in place. You are drilling into the end pieces of the IKEA unit, which are hollow , so long screws are not necessarily better. Once in place I added additional screws that went through into the vertical dividers. This was easy to do by eye, but I found I couldnt easily repeat this with the horizontal central shelf, so rather than mess it up I left that. 10 screws in total , 2 at each end and 2 for each of the 3 vertical dividing shelves.<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg70xk1MzBjiK98RkdNSCjNEi8icZW8irR6tAzPlVmq6Cw7g5HyvvRBavptAXSpEX79mzhxqQQ7x7UTmV7SUjqgiFb76Wd4KTAgoRWXgPrlHAYMhRisfCF96fIRleUy5-9CuldnfX86K9wi/s2048/IKEA_EXPEDIT_KALLAX_STRENGTHENING_IMG_4067.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="rear bracing to IKEA EXPEDIT" border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg70xk1MzBjiK98RkdNSCjNEi8icZW8irR6tAzPlVmq6Cw7g5HyvvRBavptAXSpEX79mzhxqQQ7x7UTmV7SUjqgiFb76Wd4KTAgoRWXgPrlHAYMhRisfCF96fIRleUy5-9CuldnfX86K9wi/w640-h480/IKEA_EXPEDIT_KALLAX_STRENGTHENING_IMG_4067.JPG" title="rear bracing to IKEA EXPEDIT" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Plastic cross brace, secured at ends and at each vertical. </td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsn2ngxX_nMQ7f3zZsAka97IBSOTK6w8u84d9v_Gc3v6KSnwPU2IrveFP9TT7OyqcCP-ZplBW5C3LYxBfYM3-NdVl67Stcb-P6Ff1WjAHyQJhAdyki2snmYyKUS0gdC5dfDQAwO-elisUg/s2048/IKEA_EXPEDIT_KALLAX_STRENGTHENING_IMG_4065.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="bracing screwed to vertical divider shelves as well as ends" border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsn2ngxX_nMQ7f3zZsAka97IBSOTK6w8u84d9v_Gc3v6KSnwPU2IrveFP9TT7OyqcCP-ZplBW5C3LYxBfYM3-NdVl67Stcb-P6Ff1WjAHyQJhAdyki2snmYyKUS0gdC5dfDQAwO-elisUg/w640-h480/IKEA_EXPEDIT_KALLAX_STRENGTHENING_IMG_4065.JPG" title="bracing screwed to vertical divider shelves as well as ends" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">closer look at vertical fastening</td></tr></tbody></table></div><br /><br /><br />Once in place this made a big difference to the slight lateral movement, it was much more rigid. Also this prevented the records from sliding too far back. Inspired by this success, and as I had the unit out and my tools to hand, I also added corner L-shaped brackets at each of the 4 corners.<br /><br /><p></p><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyD_RReXW56qAcqgr-9ZtK0tEVFQytD8TUHu-go_nuRqSBwR6IthCQWw2mPzR8MbqXczgo6Mv7He0psXCL6ERxgGWi7KlKnorkhztakqLuqx5m-m_PunwAe2uRkSJLowI0ohBBNrY4MA0T/s2048/IKEA_EXPEDIT_KALLAX_STRENGTHENING_IMG_4066.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="4 steel corner brackets for extra bracing" border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyD_RReXW56qAcqgr-9ZtK0tEVFQytD8TUHu-go_nuRqSBwR6IthCQWw2mPzR8MbqXczgo6Mv7He0psXCL6ERxgGWi7KlKnorkhztakqLuqx5m-m_PunwAe2uRkSJLowI0ohBBNrY4MA0T/w480-h640/IKEA_EXPEDIT_KALLAX_STRENGTHENING_IMG_4066.JPG" title="4 steel corner brackets for extra bracing" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">4 steel corner brackets for extra bracing</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="text-align: left;">Now there is no detectable lateral movement and my turntable seems far more solid . I should add that the unit rests on a solid concrete floor, so was only ever susceptible if knocked. Were I to have hollow or suspended floors , the original problem would have been worse, and this solution may be even more useful</span></div><br /><br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br />Mr Iveshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14965084993191032538noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8000191682087974772.post-20148203537769790512020-12-26T16:12:00.010+00:002020-12-26T16:43:11.648+00:00a vintage Sonab 85S / Yamaha CP-500 turntable<p></p><h1 style="clear: both; text-align: center;">The Sonab 85S turntable</h1><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLqdL7sO_ET_kMdoB0612yJi7xX3Zvl4sgBSWM0WEI7EySOWUjG92Liu0fL4hfedtnrDE8Db2viGERi_dApf6cNemvMKmjbhlyLtIGwm2Tb8xc0lbzghkHdveSdBJmfH5KZgjRLPbIzjCY/s2048/Sonab_85s_turntableIMG_4078.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Sonab 85S turntable" border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLqdL7sO_ET_kMdoB0612yJi7xX3Zvl4sgBSWM0WEI7EySOWUjG92Liu0fL4hfedtnrDE8Db2viGERi_dApf6cNemvMKmjbhlyLtIGwm2Tb8xc0lbzghkHdveSdBJmfH5KZgjRLPbIzjCY/w640-h480/Sonab_85s_turntableIMG_4078.JPG" title="Sonab 85S turntable" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">You'll see from this blog that I'm interested in vintage audio equipment , especially turntables and speakers. I keep an eye on ebay for potential bargains, and saw this turntable listed quite close to me and for a very good price, £60 buy it now, including 45 adapter, dust bug, DIN adapter, record clamp and a very nice Shure M95 cartridge. Condition listed as very good and with the original sonab headshell.<br /><br />I've been interested in this deck for sometime, as to my eyes , it's a particularly nice design, with the very simple tonearm and deep chassis. I was aware that the model , from the late 70's was a cooperation between Swedish manufacturer Sonab and Yamaha. I don't know how much was contributed by which firm, but the same deck, or one very similar is also to be found as the Yamaha CP-500, though typically in teak rather than black. There were two Sonab models , the 75 and 85, the former being a manual deck, the latter an automatic, and these roughly align with the CP-500 and 700 models from Yamaha, though the latter has a different tonearm.<br /><br />I bid for the auction, won, and collected it from the seller Harry who was a delight, looking after it for me during covid19 lockdown, and observing correct distancing. The deck was in superb condition, but Harry admitted he'd had some problems setting the tracking weight (more of this later). I am delighted with it.<br /><br /><br /><h3>What is inside ?</h3><br />I wanted to give the deck check over. My plan is that this will be a deck for my son when he moves out. I already have some speakers (KEF Cresta covered in a previous blog <a href="https://mr-ives.blogspot.com/2012/07/kef-cresta-speaker-renovation.html" target="_blank">Kef Cresta restoration</a> ).<br /><br />I put it on my bench and powered it up, not connected to an amplifier, and everything worked fine. Its automatic, so you can simply put a record on move the arm to the play position and press the front right hand rocker switch. This both starts the platter and lowers the tonearm. At the end of a side the arm is raised, returned to the rest and the platter stopped. </div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioIl8WQtUJU77owgy-s0VQKmVT0NjhjcFeC0jaVqQOc1bUnjxAHDRG6pxFRBD1pJIF6rUXW1dm3D3J6sx1OL-38HiAyAWQCC3OjktnIZuxZ7Kzfbwlh-RZgkiuBZAhAPA2InEX1cLoAnkE/s2048/Sonab_85s_turntableIMG_4079.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikhLiY7R5sKr9hk6u31wL83cMyxnVkn5mPPRMatqGv-FBczUu1X_jKB0fRe8ApZOKjCgsyxv42Vb2VvrfASvZmRv_fpaovyWQ8sJkqrrUW8hqG_nnD7xmP6cFp3xGjYrwtgaDgKYvi2Fdm/s2048/Sonab_85s_turntableIMG_4073.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Sonab 85S with platter and belt removed" border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikhLiY7R5sKr9hk6u31wL83cMyxnVkn5mPPRMatqGv-FBczUu1X_jKB0fRe8ApZOKjCgsyxv42Vb2VvrfASvZmRv_fpaovyWQ8sJkqrrUW8hqG_nnD7xmP6cFp3xGjYrwtgaDgKYvi2Fdm/w640-h480/Sonab_85s_turntableIMG_4073.JPG" title="Sonab 85S with platter and belt removed" width="640" /></a></div></div><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: justify;">In the picture above, having removed the mat, platter and belt you can see the mechanism.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">The deck is belt driven from an AC synchronous motor (top left) which is suspended by 3 springs. There is a speed change arm which moves the belt between two pulley positions , as per the <a href="https://mr-ives.blogspot.com/2013/07/restoring-pioneer-pl-12d-turntable.html">Pioneer PL12D </a> and <a href="https://mr-ives.blogspot.com/2014/01/restoring-jvc-jl-a1-turntable.html">JVC JL-A1</a>. The main bearing and arm are attached to a suspended sub-chassis decoupled by 4 springs. You can see 3 of them with foam "doughnuts" at the top of each, I assume providing some damping. The 4th is hidden closer to the tonearm. The White nylon cogs drive the automatic return mechanism as per the JVC. This deck didn't have the original shipping bolts, but I shipped the deck myself in my car. My friend David Harris , who also restored one around this time, had issues with the shipping bolts deforming the cueing lever.<br /><br /><br />This example didn't seem to need any additional oiling to the mechanism, which worked fine. The main bearing has an oil reservoir felt washer beneath the small white cog, and I applied some sewing machine oil to this. It's not easy to remove the main bearing , as it is with the PL12D, as you would need to remove some of the automatic mechanism too. Possibly this is easier to do on the Sonab 75S, the manual version, but I left it be this time. Another feature of the 85S is auto-mute, where the signal from the cartridge is cut when the arm is not in contact with the record. This avoids you having to manually mute the turntable by always turning the volume to zero when not in use, something I instinctively do. The idea is not to have a "thump" noise go through the speakers when the stylus first contacts the record surface. You can see the wires and contacts in the picture at the bottom between the two lower springs. a set of microswitches make/break the signal wires at this point, driven by a white nylon lever tracking the arm movement.<br /><br />I should mention at this point an excellent blog on servicing this deck at <a href="https://liquidaudio.com.au/sonab-85s-belt-drive-turntable-service/">liquidaudio.com.au</a></div></div><br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfhBV_Mr55yxM5Ryl1ZGNT5ou6WzuzG86tQHAxLNH0zaIbf4hoM9au7DD2iIjo4-aSd27AYbplxleoGx6N3T4Op7yCp3-tNAAiPXgN28JHz2VXNrh19voFOgs1EcO8k7ChULKfSCWU9Htr/s2048/Sonab_85s_turntableIMG_4069.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Inside the Sonab 85S" border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfhBV_Mr55yxM5Ryl1ZGNT5ou6WzuzG86tQHAxLNH0zaIbf4hoM9au7DD2iIjo4-aSd27AYbplxleoGx6N3T4Op7yCp3-tNAAiPXgN28JHz2VXNrh19voFOgs1EcO8k7ChULKfSCWU9Htr/w640-h480/Sonab_85s_turntableIMG_4069.JPG" title="Inside the Sonab 85S" width="640" /></a></div><br /><br /><br /><div style="text-align: justify;">Having previously removed the platter, belt and mat, I removed the headshell, clamped the arm in place, and put a soft towel down on the work surface so I could flip the deck upside down supported by the dust cover. I removed the base board by taking out 8 screws, exposing the internal workings. I couldn't find a picture of the inside online, so here you go, a possible internet first !<br /><br />It's similar to both the Pioneer PL12D and JVC JL-A1 in a number of regards. All are belt drives using an AC synchronous motor. This spins at a fixed speed determined by the mains frequency (50Hz Europe, 60 Hz USA and Japan has both 50 and 60 Hz regions). Top right you can see the motor which is suspended on springs rather than rubber mounts, so no need to restore hardened rubber . Interestingly the top and bottom motor bearings are fed oil via two pipes with a wick down the centre, which lead to the oil point accessible from the top of the deck.<br /><br /><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAwk2Ly_-bihFVbl3rklpN0D0mLj8PhzOLcAXFY8llYQP53qag7VSImQLMeqFXhH6KW2NJ9mjVh9KnhwQMHvUgIuwgEAVsvOU0nkeWLU5fsDgQKyrZ0ocl8uqfDut675nU5hrk7tB1La8x/s2048/Sonab_85s_turntableIMG_4070.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Sonab 85S motor" border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAwk2Ly_-bihFVbl3rklpN0D0mLj8PhzOLcAXFY8llYQP53qag7VSImQLMeqFXhH6KW2NJ9mjVh9KnhwQMHvUgIuwgEAVsvOU0nkeWLU5fsDgQKyrZ0ocl8uqfDut675nU5hrk7tB1La8x/w640-h480/Sonab_85s_turntableIMG_4070.JPG" title="Sonab 85S motor" width="640" /></a></div><br /><br /></div><br /><br /><br />The deck is well made, the top plate is a cast alloy rathen then pressed steel. The layout is tidy, with what appears a single capacitor the only other electronic component. This capacitor is in fact two in a single unit, providing both the phase to the motor (spins in the correct direction) and suppression of EMI from the switch. The based of the tonearm is encapsulated in a metal screen. My only criticism is the auto-mute, which necessitates the arm wiring making a huge detour out of the screened can to where the microswitch is close to the front of the deck. This "feature" proved problematic later as I had feared, I'm not a fan of auto anything as it tends to be the first thing to fail.<br /><br />Having inspected the inside , I put everything back and did some basic tests. <br /><br /><h3 style="text-align: left;">Speed</h3><div>I use a strobe disc to measure speed. There are mobile apps, which can do a good job, but I think work best with rigid decks like Technics SL1200, Rega, Project . Decks which have suspension where the replay system (platter, bearing,sub-chassis and tonearm) can float, seem to give variable results. I think this is because the off-centre weight of the phone on the platter creates an oscillation of the platter relative to the motor. The drive belt ois being flexed once per revolution, which gives erratic results<br /><br /><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHjxkJ5L_eqqlXdxreKMlU9dzBgAr8f8ylAYF-BBhXaRfq8tUVLx4OWIG7Y9EywJJQOyWVohyphenhyphenYTwRyVOGBTYgreQBfjl3zTkUIcBSK-UbwHwZpfMZGkXUinivsV-JrQfBYyJTJsjhF8BmZ/s2048/Sonab_85s_turntableIMG_4113.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="testing speed with strobe disc on the Sonab 85s" border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHjxkJ5L_eqqlXdxreKMlU9dzBgAr8f8ylAYF-BBhXaRfq8tUVLx4OWIG7Y9EywJJQOyWVohyphenhyphenYTwRyVOGBTYgreQBfjl3zTkUIcBSK-UbwHwZpfMZGkXUinivsV-JrQfBYyJTJsjhF8BmZ/w640-h480/Sonab_85s_turntableIMG_4113.JPG" title="testing speed with strobe disc on the Sonab 85s" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: justify;">My strobe test showed that the deck was slightly fast on both 33 and 45 settings. This motor is synchronous, which means it always spins at a speed determined by the mains frequency , which for the UK is 50Hz. Hence any slight increase in speed is due to something in the geometry of the pulley, the belt and the platter belt rim. In the case of the Sonab the belt runs around the outside edge of the full platter. The first thing to check was that the motor pulley was clean and no fragments of previous belts were left on the surface, as these can fractionally increase the effective pulley diameter.</div><br /><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJVoN3fVcyRwHzIeyyqqOjD5hYyXUCoNDRecs_CyjqOVZte9keBnA7PujzkEGJ0ZEl7I-iefY2BO15lll1FnosjhTsFJIioIXgZN_w8m_AHJ8LpYzFiCfGzNw8SeW6vbZGbvYJFD-vLJ1U/s2048/Sonab_85s_turntableIMG_4074.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Sonab 85S motor pulley and speed select arm" border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJVoN3fVcyRwHzIeyyqqOjD5hYyXUCoNDRecs_CyjqOVZte9keBnA7PujzkEGJ0ZEl7I-iefY2BO15lll1FnosjhTsFJIioIXgZN_w8m_AHJ8LpYzFiCfGzNw8SeW6vbZGbvYJFD-vLJ1U/w640-h480/Sonab_85s_turntableIMG_4074.JPG" title="Sonab 85S motor pulley and speed select arm" width="640" /></a></div><br /><br />I used a wooden toothpick and a cotton bud soaked in some Isopropyl alcohol to thoroughly clean the pulley. There was a little bit of residue but not much, and after cleaning both the pulley and the platter rim, the deck still ran fast. Harry had provided an additional belt, but swapping these belts made no difference. Both looked perfect and were the same size. In this picture you can see the oil point for the motor , to the top right. The oil drops into a chamber which feeds the two pipes to upper and lower bearings<br /><br />Past experience has taught me that not all replacements belts are created equal, so I went onto the online shop of <a href="https://www.thakker.eu/en/belts/turntables/sonab-85-s-belt/a-4173">William Thakker in Germany</a> and ordered a new belt from them . I always use Thakker, in the past I have found their belts gave the correct speed, as with the PL12D, and their prices are cheap and reliable shipping to the UK. So I paused my testing of speed and started looking at the tracking<br /><br /><h3 style="text-align: left;">That tonearm</h3><div>One aspect of the Sonab that is intriguing is the very simple, yet elegant tonearm. It uses a standard headshell, but in terms of adjustment there appears to be very little, just a slender balance weight at the back. The deck does infact incorporate anti-skate, which is adjusted via a screw under the platter. The arm felt reasonably good, there was a little play in the bearings but nothing serious. Now for the tracking weight.<br /><br /><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglcJ_WqVOmDr_KLHo-XPlvaBYux6Kmp-11796mX-6P1beqHouXAD3rBIe5ngSfIPJRptERF3jTd3dOGmsiSzri_00hHsAr8roE30OpKnVKWHiTge51m4QSaGDL0ReltgkClS4LqMuZuD9K/s2048/Sonab_85s_turntableIMG_4080.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Sonab 85S tonearm" border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglcJ_WqVOmDr_KLHo-XPlvaBYux6Kmp-11796mX-6P1beqHouXAD3rBIe5ngSfIPJRptERF3jTd3dOGmsiSzri_00hHsAr8roE30OpKnVKWHiTge51m4QSaGDL0ReltgkClS4LqMuZuD9K/w640-h480/Sonab_85s_turntableIMG_4080.JPG" title="Sonab 85S tonearm" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">Most tonearms have a balance weight with an adjustable dial on the front. You balance the arm, which establishes the null point where the arm floats. You set the dial to zero then rotate the weight AND the dial together to the required tracking weight i.e. 2 grams. With this arm there is no dial as such, simply markings on the weight, so I couldn't understand how you could set the tracking weight in the normal way. I decided the best way would be to use a simple stylus scales which I have, and then I hit the issue that Harry had mentioned. The arm will only lower when the platter is spinning, but in order to use a set of scales I need the platter to be still. The automatic mechanism seemed to be fighting me and my need to manually operate the deck. But with no power applied to the deck the arm just wouldn't lower from the cueing lever ? I should have read the manual, which explains the way around this, but I did discover it on my own. Basically you play a record with the power on, and when the stylus drops, you turn off power at the wall. Now the arm is "down " and you can use your scales. It's described in the manual which can be downloaded from <a href="https://www.vinylengine.com/library/sonab/85s.shtml">vinyl engine </a><br /><br />I set the tracking weight at 2 grams. The cartridge is a Shume M95 but the stylus is a replacement, possibly from Jico/Thakker Japan and these track a little heavier.<br /><br />Another interesting point is the cartridge is not adjustable in the headshell. There are two sets of holes to allow to cartridge positions but not really any means to fine tune the alignment. Possibly it was fixed to make it easier, maybe the turntable shipped with one standard cartridge ? You can always it a slotted headshell as it uses the Universal connector, as originally developed by Ortofon and widely promoted by SME.<br /><br />I decided to wait for the new belt before actually testing the deck via my amplifier<br /><br /><h3>The new belt arrives</h3><div>I fitted the new belt and tested the speed. It was much better, though still slightly fast. Comparing the 3 belts (2 that came with the deck + 1 from Thakker). This time the Thakker belt seemed to be longer in circumference, but the thickness seemed the same across all 3. With the PL12D I'd attributed the Thakker belts accurate speed being due to the belt being thinner and this small change having an effect on the relative diameter of pulley and platter . here the thickness appeared to be the same, though I would need a micrometer to confirm. perhaps the issue is the longer belt doesn't pull on the motor pulley as much and rides better on the centre ("crown") of the pulley ?<br /><br />Anyway , once again, very pleased and good service from William Thakker<br /><br /><h2><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9_OM5EB8nzZRO9kdSOSo5XR9lw5Epoyi1ZdRF-S8ST5m_t92CAgKyGPHwLd5N8IQY7RgeparmwN7OQJLAhFksJ3vHsYR4NJdXRMUAd8ZIV6t6kjWP5p3WqWSqPx5GdJWcAXRabVt8WL9Z/s2048/Sonab_85s_turntableIMG_4112.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="William Thakker belt for Sonab 85S" border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9_OM5EB8nzZRO9kdSOSo5XR9lw5Epoyi1ZdRF-S8ST5m_t92CAgKyGPHwLd5N8IQY7RgeparmwN7OQJLAhFksJ3vHsYR4NJdXRMUAd8ZIV6t6kjWP5p3WqWSqPx5GdJWcAXRabVt8WL9Z/w640-h480/Sonab_85s_turntableIMG_4112.JPG" title="William Thakker belt for Sonab 85S" width="640" /></a></div></h2><h2><br /></h2>Playing some music</div><br /><div>I fitted the deck into my system , I use an A&R Cambridge C200/SA200 pre-power amplifier, which conveniently comes with both RCA and DIN sockets for the phono input. This deck had a DIN plug on the end, which was probably original, but had been fitted with a female DIN to RCA adapter, which I discarded. It's possible the deck will be used with an amplifier with DIN inputs , an A&R Cambridge A60, so I see no reason to replace the original<br /><br /><br /><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3wn64SVyEV_F9tBa2VQ_s2Zn0UvoPtIJjJ4mET5BpFnZK3wWdAhuAVWsRG4vYn9hggNGIobsya71FRZvNp-4u7o8D1oMD-XA9Ayv5FBh55qHaClb5mYh1-qnoQ8Pk_K-YjJY7A8_wqYaT/s2048/Sonab_85s_turntableIMG_4134.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Sonab 85s playing an LP" border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3wn64SVyEV_F9tBa2VQ_s2Zn0UvoPtIJjJ4mET5BpFnZK3wWdAhuAVWsRG4vYn9hggNGIobsya71FRZvNp-4u7o8D1oMD-XA9Ayv5FBh55qHaClb5mYh1-qnoQ8Pk_K-YjJY7A8_wqYaT/w640-h480/Sonab_85s_turntableIMG_4134.JPG" title="Sonab 85s playing an LP" width="640" /></a></div><br /></div><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3AN7KZ8MZ6uTfsyXoABT4xykEXSKOeY1AK_5OnZ-LPPeorNsezd6Vsjzcyv-S4QZ1X6vdsepFNe_N6peYKL0LNflBHeDVUM60jFcpjDXRod3ujHcSV5R5jB2oYMt1U9CmgpzNJsV0-AAX/s2048/Sonab_85s_turntableIMG_4075.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>I have to say I was immediately impressed by the sound. I know the Shure M95 as a great cartridge and was delighted to get one as part of the deal. Very solid, sound, deck ran with minimum hum, and the motor was silent. The auto features worked fine. Superb ....<br /><br /><br /><h3>One last thing</h3><div>I used the deck for a few days, happily but started to notice some distortion coming from the right channel. Sometimes during music, sometimes when nothing was playing . It sounded like rustling leaves. I decided that this might be the auto-mute, which do sometimes tarnish or get dirty, or the contacts stick.<br /><br />I removed the platter and used some card soaked in Isopropyl alcohol to rub between the contacts<br /><br /><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3D2ZbqSFgZPhM10IBzE7M07W1xUbGVwkCBRmgwC3azHE2Ex7RQQWjTcgaLX_8WZ9YhdCzvO1opfbroYHNvc4Uq-R5EDJaZY50u3l3d0IIDBhRvWk9kp8d8Z4cUhw9d_3Bo9wMwbAC1JW3/s2048/Sonab_85s_turntableIMG_4130.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Auto-mute contacts" border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3D2ZbqSFgZPhM10IBzE7M07W1xUbGVwkCBRmgwC3azHE2Ex7RQQWjTcgaLX_8WZ9YhdCzvO1opfbroYHNvc4Uq-R5EDJaZY50u3l3d0IIDBhRvWk9kp8d8Z4cUhw9d_3Bo9wMwbAC1JW3/w480-h640/Sonab_85s_turntableIMG_4130.JPG" title="Auto-mute contacts" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHVgSrua27mxZH8WQA-NC8A0KSwLk-6sp9OwGijs-Hb0mmAHoxjTw52paw2o9NMxQJRA8zUJM9NTuNJd6_Yb2-4eZIR0VN8CCpHJeVDMDZ1rNq4OFLnCNncm_lDWXv2siJjpWz-c4_efL2/s2048/Sonab_85s_turntableIMG_4131.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="cleaning the contacts" border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHVgSrua27mxZH8WQA-NC8A0KSwLk-6sp9OwGijs-Hb0mmAHoxjTw52paw2o9NMxQJRA8zUJM9NTuNJd6_Yb2-4eZIR0VN8CCpHJeVDMDZ1rNq4OFLnCNncm_lDWXv2siJjpWz-c4_efL2/w480-h640/Sonab_85s_turntableIMG_4131.JPG" title="cleaning the contacts" width="480" /></a><br /><br /><br /><div style="text-align: justify;">This seemed to improve things, but then I completely lost the right channel. This time I decided to be a little more methodical and took the headshell off. I used a digital multimeter to measure the resistance between the pins of the headshell connector. between right channel signal and right channel ground, left channel signal to left channel ground. one side had a resistance value, the other side was open circuit (infinite resistance). I disconnected and reconnected all the pins in the headshell and measured again , and now had a similar reading on both channels. I refitted the headshell, and since that the deck has played fine without loss of chanel or rustling sound. Perhaps I was too quick to blame the auto-mute ?</div><br /><br /><h3 style="text-align: justify;">Conclusion<br /></h3><div style="text-align: justify;">This deck is excellent. It's very well made, presumably by Yamaha, and the plinth is one of the most solid I have seen, much thicker than most, using plywood as opposed to chipboard. Also the top plate is very substantial. It looks fantastic and I think this is where Sonab had a lot of input, their speakers and amplifiers have a similar look which just looks right to me. The whole thing says quality, and that's confirmed by the fact it still works well after 40+ years. I could forgo the automatic features, as I've grown up with manual decks from my father's first Thorens TD150 in 1972. My reasoning is that while these features are nice, I'd rather have something simpler, with less things to go wrong, and for that reason I would suggest looking out for the Sonab 75s in preference, it looks the same but forgoes the auto features, meaning it's easier to service .<br /><br /><br /><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvVpn9OTGZxRsF4Yg6G_dvyYl-8RMKPfu2c6ZsWPznqsvEuC7Zy5NRHxzYjcwI9vx58lAHVtKJS4H9NmXYOof5tavmb-p5fSvTTUH57wH8C6TgK_Ft-J9M2EVWtY94xY5QHIiqSnu8iv3K/s2048/Sonab_85s_turntableIMG_4144.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Soanb 85S playing a record" border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvVpn9OTGZxRsF4Yg6G_dvyYl-8RMKPfu2c6ZsWPznqsvEuC7Zy5NRHxzYjcwI9vx58lAHVtKJS4H9NmXYOof5tavmb-p5fSvTTUH57wH8C6TgK_Ft-J9M2EVWtY94xY5QHIiqSnu8iv3K/w480-h640/Sonab_85s_turntableIMG_4144.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /></div><br /><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><br /></div><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiblT6lSj4u_QNpEMtIswr4mWAOjkxUUofBU0_X0Uji5pN6tfXH41Y0i9Vf39Lip28csfcRtfS277ZJCB9Ny1D3Zr1SFDEZ5r_O1k0U-26qBD0gAjP6lTo6imrNO3nkWEmvLNxsHR-8CoDl/s2048/Sonab_85s_turntableIMG_4071.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></div><br /><br /><br /><p></p>Mr Iveshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14965084993191032538noreply@blogger.com14tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8000191682087974772.post-73952892991288416712020-09-07T07:55:00.005+01:002021-06-07T11:50:49.418+01:00Restoring 1970's Audiomaster Image Two speakers<div class="separator"><p style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"> I routinely search ebay for bargain HiFi gear, usually once great brands now rather forgotten.<br /><br />A recent search yielded a pair of scruffy looking speakers but I recognised the old name of Audiomaster. They had been one of the 50+ UK speaker manufacturers that existed during the 1970's into the 1980's along with the likes of Tangent, RAM , griffin etc. Audiomaster were one of the first brands awarded the LS3/5a licence - the right to make speakers to that BBC specification, no mean accolade.<br /><br /></p><div style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNqEamZ_lPqo9IJvDf9SdEBa9oa6UUrkX3xAWetitcro2-m8m_taf-H7DhCKBGOTQJooKhh8ghyphenhyphen1ERR7sQlohcuvdHGTyvYwSjaUw0XU4zg34NfEXFAg4YSyNHyYN1FPJbULA2Ejmf22kD/w480-h640/IMG-3348.JPG" width="480" /></div><p></p><p style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></p><div style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkZBT5gZdhZgq7cARw_eYz2pTJ4t6gkmEu1c9o4gzQ5wVIRETDnv05djO3qeUMhyphenhyphenAnpBiMz8v1S324L-DjbiWBC9Ntn_-vuJERTxC_EJhhPFXGBWhliqPEM9McbUOo7lwPZzHCEy7x7Bfs/w640-h480/IMG-3350.JPG" width="640" /></div><br /><br />The speakers in question were in a poor state, the tweeter looked heavily corroded, the bass unit had tears in the rubber surround, there were no grilles and the cabinets were quite scratched, but the seller made this all very clear. I put in a very low bid, and won them for £3. Collected from the nearby Town and the seller was great, collected and set about trying to restore them.<br /><br /><br />First off after a bit of research I think these are Audiomaster Image Two speakers. The complex crossover have Image One etched on them, but I think the Image two was there only speaker to use a Peerless silk dome tweeter, coupled with the ubiquitous Kef B200 SP1014 bass/mid unit. What intrigued me about these speakers were the complex crossover and the well made cabinets - some thought had gone into these.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVY3oZysQo7Xml-K3SBLUoALIgrqTY7y2TWnjA8jBy7WiIxTS3_gcarkG_NdlZAOeMBG4rWZ5KgUDhoG_gv89HqB2uM_zC1u8l4SoDhwNhHv3LqeG5CIhDZtmrSsmDJ2e2DoGJniAvuJ5h/w480-h640/IMG-3351.JPG" width="480" /></div><p></p><p style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></p><div style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFLq2TaTgE-6DCAEEU5T2F1Ga40fACHzq77974ejKBU_O-L7M2uFZu3GqmguMBHe8gaPh1xHT0wFNkSOhNBZCJKa3PAXOK3uBGZipqrqXOFzjEChjv3NUaS7VwZhSTsudXfuqs6T9BeF2G/w480-h640/IMG-3354.JPG" width="480" /></div><br /><br />When I got them home, it was nice weather so I worked outside on them, first removing the front of the speakers so I could work on the cabinets without risking the drivers. The cabinets were veneered chipboard but well made with damping panels and foam applied to all the internal surfaces, similar to the LS3/5a. Screws held the front Bezel on and was easy to remove. Some of the screwheads showed a little red tint of rust, but otherwise fine. once I had the bezel off, I needed to unsolder the wires from the crossover board to the speaker terminals at the back of the speaker, and to each driver.<br /><br /><p></p><p style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></p><div style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgahyphenhypheny2ppOeXkGnjrJlDjL6EWMIm77e60lYCfx4Zwp778ZNsE7ckyoDCBBpO5Hg4rugbqKb4Gk5XYTdbqZV6_MZq6UtaoehfItYdVP1vTStPcXv5Ng6WeW9tZKgqCgQm_isV5bDdO2UZEgW/w480-h640/IMG-3363.JPG" style="text-align: left;" width="480" /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix28HhSRP80TIwrOUO9eSCI22e-e_KBVMdFPC-CAV0OlJVhbXmpMNMOLqFSNfkp8QWpQc1KShIMwbr61pke3iUjKspfLJDgwqRrbZeJdyMgDiswtRdXBFL9Ix-fK7_Efx2gdSe5vj9gwIn/s2048/IMG-3352.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix28HhSRP80TIwrOUO9eSCI22e-e_KBVMdFPC-CAV0OlJVhbXmpMNMOLqFSNfkp8QWpQc1KShIMwbr61pke3iUjKspfLJDgwqRrbZeJdyMgDiswtRdXBFL9Ix-fK7_Efx2gdSe5vj9gwIn/w480-h640/IMG-3352.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><br />I wasn't absolutely sure they even worked, the seller said they did though they buzzed due to the busted rubber surrounds on the B200 units. the B200's were unscrewed and their wires unsoldered from the crossover. The surrounds were badly split and one had a cracked cone. Using a multimeter set to resistance I was able to measure across both drivers and they returned a 7.2Ohm value, indicating that both coils were complete. Similarly the Peerless tweeters, glued in place with mastic, measured a resistance, so I was hopeful they worked.<br /><br />I managed to get the front of the tweeters looking better using a little White Vinegar on a rag, carefully avoiding the soft silk dome. The vinegar got rid of the white Aluminium Oxide corrosion, just leaving exposed metal , <p></p><p style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSIHNOPGgeiafoQ26i6ZwuEG-f2b4ZSj8q7FdfVo_E_8lvaF5UOnLVrruFs-A9kFu9s0bEyOu4e_jIHlQsVYQ5K8A98EBbMQ5HDdgtleWQ6lf-rOVzGziPyPNcfLC_NYCcWhaRhjUans4R/s2048/IMG-3360.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSIHNOPGgeiafoQ26i6ZwuEG-f2b4ZSj8q7FdfVo_E_8lvaF5UOnLVrruFs-A9kFu9s0bEyOu4e_jIHlQsVYQ5K8A98EBbMQ5HDdgtleWQ6lf-rOVzGziPyPNcfLC_NYCcWhaRhjUans4R/w640-h480/IMG-3360.jpg" title="treating corroded Peerless tweeter bezels with vinegar. Before and after" width="640" /></a></div><br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I wiped the cabinets down with a damp cloth, they had a lot of scratches and the polish was worn, but they were OK. in one place on the rear was a knock in the wood. I treated this with a little wood hardener to ensure no more flakes of chipboard fell away, but decided not to fill or replace the wood. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4K-zqmt78i5w6Ra3mC60-woV64NmZ3tZlNy8brHL7bHPd7wL-7G8NvdKx9F03WlPmYbrbINDRawTjHx4dHRhGmF5_l2ZjkLriEdkWiThqlNib3cc123pa3qCJ1Wvopi9-fRuCjdEXKTno/w480-h640/IMG-3362.JPG" style="text-align: left;" width="480" /></div><br />One cabinet also showed signs of one of the corner seams opening, so I applied some wood glue along the seam, forcing it into the gap then clamped the whole thing using a car strap, and some cardboard to take the strain<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQkKkNs8t1NxAxfdFH7bS992-Z2Jse6u8iY1_mBC6cy1PCu_hMrJ8biZEaWrKKTuVxQB7j4X8UKapomCtyB8BFHbLAi6a64tvKIRUb7IEHrQP5UF_6gDOQWUwe4SDE1pobCqdvgZi19fYt/s2048/IMG-3361.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQkKkNs8t1NxAxfdFH7bS992-Z2Jse6u8iY1_mBC6cy1PCu_hMrJ8biZEaWrKKTuVxQB7j4X8UKapomCtyB8BFHbLAi6a64tvKIRUb7IEHrQP5UF_6gDOQWUwe4SDE1pobCqdvgZi19fYt/w480-h640/IMG-3361.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><div class="separator"><br /></div>Once the cabinets were dry , I gave them a restore by applying Briwax to them with a scourer. This has the effect of darkening any scratches and replenishing any polish. best done outside as briwax contains Toluene, but it does a good job with minimal effort needed<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdp1-KSQ80LobV3p-RJvXPQjIVz0Bbpk-buDgv-3By4LYgBEiMv3JsbbHUUSPodvEvwIY5E7PrhUXiv__psxAcIhNEa-n42EBo8uxP4-5uXszkFNxTSMYm-L4ZI-wLMFS6qjStrecMZVYR/w480-h640/IMG-3364.JPG" style="text-align: left;" width="480" /><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxLkbGTDxjbUT6FV1-PAfKviwQsrNIvKsg3swyVY0FWy0Ygtuj4y139rdSAUeb7vyxnfUdbed6S-bR1U27-uccjurFWjQdZtH4N3o76UvdrT6jmCrrhQno7y_2J5QIWsh0KA3CBKOTHhVu/w480-h640/IMG-3366.JPG" style="text-align: left;" title="After Briwax" width="480" /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div style="text-align: left;">I was pondering what to do with the B200 bass units. It's not made any more and a replacement set would cost around £50 on ebay, maybe more. I toyed with using a pair of dalesford feroba units which are considered a reasonable Kef drop in replacement. I have repaired the foam surrounds on other speakers (see other blog entries) but the Kef units are bextrene rubber and very hard to remove and replace.<br /><br />Then in one of those magical moments, a friend Dylan from the wonderful facebook group <a href="https://www.facebook.com/groups/300239996801233/" target="_blank">audioshite </a>(dedicated to the promotion and restoration of old audio equipment) reminded me he had a similar pair of speakers from Tangent. These he'd won on ebay, but the cabinets had been smashed by the delivery agent. They contained a working pair of B200's and so a plan evolved where he had the speakers, and we dropped them off with him. It was right that he had them</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Dylan fitted his B200's into the cabinets, and while they are still a little scruffy, they look a lot better and commented :</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><p style="text-align: justify;"><i>"<span face="" style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-size: 14px; text-align: left;">They just do everything, really nicely and every so often they take me by surprise and make me grin. I've heard SP1014s before in various boxes, and they've always given me the impression that they're working really hard. They just feel somehow more free in these boxes. I don't know what the crossover frequency is but I wonder if it's relatively low, leaving the woofers to just do the bits they do best. </span></i><i style="color: #1d2129; font-size: 14px;">Most speakers sound dreadful in my living room, which is a nightmare for speaker and ear placement. These sound good everywhere. Even 90 degrees off axis when I'm sitting in the corner at the computer. I don't understand how this is even possible"</i></p></div><br />So these half-forgotten Classic British speakers from the late 70's are repaired and getting good use again.<br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcdc3xV0Qf7bWao0LO8JFH7qQ4xSUGRZfPdWbQAIvuuP3sUCzjDVxlWFdZMaJoa03W7lN01P4zsZDg7oxlwWqTeU5hYb-dMn7kfr_Oa2iZP6SN8QQasp5PCTwt085-EvP-59BVoWs4ns48/s960/AudiomasterImageOne.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="720" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcdc3xV0Qf7bWao0LO8JFH7qQ4xSUGRZfPdWbQAIvuuP3sUCzjDVxlWFdZMaJoa03W7lN01P4zsZDg7oxlwWqTeU5hYb-dMn7kfr_Oa2iZP6SN8QQasp5PCTwt085-EvP-59BVoWs4ns48/w480-h640/AudiomasterImageOne.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /> <br />Below in their final form, Dylan having further restored them, removing the velcro and repainting the front bezels. Very smart:<br /><br /><p></p></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqw-OhHuIoukmgnfNGR0ZbvjgpEuCwu7BvCLDigcCeEJ1o1VCbpSogSwwupoYCx-r8Iic6s0SRXWtAxYtVPSvgrCymfWPpJokayu0uYIwmbb2oFrPpNnhG6GU9gobasEJPLlNrbZrRrCPO/s2016/138606734_10159005407127463_2439033889265751293_n.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqw-OhHuIoukmgnfNGR0ZbvjgpEuCwu7BvCLDigcCeEJ1o1VCbpSogSwwupoYCx-r8Iic6s0SRXWtAxYtVPSvgrCymfWPpJokayu0uYIwmbb2oFrPpNnhG6GU9gobasEJPLlNrbZrRrCPO/w480-h640/138606734_10159005407127463_2439033889265751293_n.jpeg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><br /><br />Mr Iveshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14965084993191032538noreply@blogger.com0Hampshire, UK51.057694800000007 -1.308062928.848163120776725 -36.4643129 73.2672264792233 33.8481871tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8000191682087974772.post-41232906724858206802020-07-25T10:59:00.018+01:002020-09-10T06:37:27.885+01:00Extending the life of an old IBM Thinkpad X.41 laptop<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN1vOpNT7GAgBUocbkSvzFa5m_94IkIsQeW8_5WDaptPMLqtyJ7DBJveAT2UjFftU5Dr6uuYgLROCVcf14fWbjX8Warl3hlk8lotonv3c3iVaHUOReLKdPtDizSUxvRXiFfX2232wvf-EA/s1024/Screenshot_2020-07-26_16%253A50%253A28.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN1vOpNT7GAgBUocbkSvzFa5m_94IkIsQeW8_5WDaptPMLqtyJ7DBJveAT2UjFftU5Dr6uuYgLROCVcf14fWbjX8Warl3hlk8lotonv3c3iVaHUOReLKdPtDizSUxvRXiFfX2232wvf-EA/w640-h480/Screenshot_2020-07-26_16%253A50%253A28.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /><br /><div style="text-align: justify;">When travelling I use an IBM Thinkpad X.41 from 2005 ,the model is described <a href="http://www.notebookreview.com/notebookreview/ibm-thinkpad-x41-review-pics-specs/" target="_blank">here</a></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">The original spec was :</div><div><ul><li>Processor: Intel Pentium M LV 758 (1.50GHz, 90nm technology, 2MB L2 Cache, 400MHz FSB)</li><li>Wireless: Intel PRO 2200BG or 2915ABG, Bluetooth optional</li><li>OS: Windows XP Home/Pro</li><li>Screen: 12.1″ TFT XGA (1024 x 768)</li><li>RAM: 256MB or 512MB PC-4200 DDR-2 SDRAM (Upgradeable to 1536MB Max)</li><li>Hard Drive: 1.8″ 20GB, 30GB, 40GB or 60GB @ 4200RPM</li><li>Battery: 2.5 hr (4-cell) 5.7 hr (8-cell) (extended-life battery option adds 3 – 4 hours of life on top of quoted numbers for each respective battery)</li><li>Ports: 2 USB 2.0 (1 IBM Powered USB 2.0), Infrared, expansion bus (for optional ThinkPad X4 Ultra Base Doc); external display; AC adapter; RJ-11 modem port;RJ-45 ethernet port; audio: headphone/line-out, external microphone.</li><li>Slots: 1 PCMCIA card slot, 1 Secure Digital card slot</li><li>Dimensions: 10.5″ x 8.3″ x 1.06″ (w x d x h) (with 8-cell battery it’s 10.5″ x 9.3″ x 1.06″)</li><li>Weight: 2.7lb with 4-cell battery, 3.2lb with 8-cell battery</li><li>Expansion: ThinkPad X4 UltraBase dock optional</li></ul></div>This blog is a bit of a history of this unit, and the various upgrades and tweaks I have made to it to keep it going and performant.<div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiPWT3Wu295S3z771BUhhQ9Kf4sDHYcK6nv6vBmilImVqBdVWmXduqs9wAxWHs5YCwltUeLo0244ciDujE1qal6OAUoyvP5-8v676FeoTXMW0OsbZAfc32TMgs_7BymeBAAyp43UBR0gud/s2048/IMG-3247.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiPWT3Wu295S3z771BUhhQ9Kf4sDHYcK6nv6vBmilImVqBdVWmXduqs9wAxWHs5YCwltUeLo0244ciDujE1qal6OAUoyvP5-8v676FeoTXMW0OsbZAfc32TMgs_7BymeBAAyp43UBR0gud/w640-h480/IMG-3247.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><div style="text-align: justify;">The laptop in question was given to my wife when she worked for a company in 2004. the company was later taken over by another IT Company, who made computers. When their laptops were renewed the old IBM units were not needed and the laptop's were given to their owners. This example then sat in a draw in our attic from 2005 until around 2013.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Our Son wanted to travel and work abroad, before going to University and needed a laptop to work, socialise etc. We decided he'd use the old IBM , on the basis that if it broke or was stolen it was not a heavy loss, and we'd get him a macbook when he returned to start at University.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">I installed a new Kingspec PATA 64GB SSD drive in it, and Ubuntu as the OS. He travelled for a year , teaching English as a foreign language and using the laptop to deliver slide material using Open office via the laptops single VGA external port. It was rather a slow machine by then , being a humble 1.5Ghz pentium processor, but it saw him through until he returned in 2014. The laptop returned to the attic.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">When I retired in 2019 and returned the company provided laptop, I realised I didn't have a machine for travelling and occasional use and so out came the trusty old X.41 again.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">I decided to make a few further tweaks to it. The old battery was holding little charge, so I got a new double sized , 8-cell battery from ebay. These seem to be creeping up in price, but at the time it was around £20.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">While Ubuntu had been fine, its interface was a bit cumbersome on the small form factor X.41 display a 12.1″ TFT XGA (1024 x 768), and after looking at Linux distributions for smaller/older machines I settled on <a href="https://peppermintos.com/" target="_blank">peppermint</a> . Peppermint has a nice clean look and feel, seems to run well on this laptop and assumes you will run mail and office tools via a browser, rather than as local native apps, which suits me as a big user of Google tools. </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">It was easy to install from a bootable USB stick , you can run from this to see how the OS works before committing to install on the hard drive. I should add that I'm very comfortable with Linux, having been using it or earlier Unix OS's since 1984, but I think anyone could get on with peppermint. </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">The install of Linux seemed to have no issues with getting sound working or using the Wifi network on the laptop. I have had some issues with Bluetooth, but that's not a major issue for me, the laptop has a headphone socket if I need headphones or speakers.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Even with an SSD and a lightweight Linux distro this laptop is old and you can't ignore the fact that a 1.5Ghz Pentium, with 1.5Gb of memory is quite a low spec. This manifests itself in a couple of ways, and I have had to compromise here. </div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">Watching video content is a bit of a struggle and has some freezing. Nor would this laptop be good for large image or video editing. Website payloads have got larger and more complex and sometimes web browsing a bit slower than I'd like but is usable.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">A few additional things I have done to improve performance are :</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li style="text-align: justify;">Swap space. I don't. I configured the laptop not to have a swap partition</li><li style="text-align: justify;">Disabled desktop effects. </li><li style="text-align: justify;">I use Chromium as my browser , the open source code tree of chrome. I found that disabling "hardware acceleration" made the performance better on this old machine. Try it and see, but i think when resource is limited, it's better without. I also use Ublock origin as an ad and tracking blocker</li></ul><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">NOTE since version 81 Chrome/Chromium performance has got a lot better when handling multiple tabs</div><br /><div style="text-align: justify;">Based on my experiences covered in my blog on Gaming using a Dell latitude, I also configured the BIOS, and disabled or hid every feature I didn't need, including Serial/parallel ports, Infrared communications, wired ethernet controller, docking station features for dual monitors. My reasoning is that the less features the Kernel has to deal with and manage IRQ's for , the better . I configured power management for maximum performance when AC power is present. </div><br /></div><div style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg50PSC0UN8xBlBOKKJvRwVhLWct33OW6yGgvwnRgz3n_KJGrwO6uNjrK5fpDJzpksvsy97Lm1gztN3OwU4qnSWOyi4HQ-iHYpMK9mTC-LTVkJf72T3jswaYqPx4mdbIuccZd67pOSmsnAN/w640-h480/IMG-3252.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="640" /></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiksEQfbZ6TBxTXs2GVpPkxZMZN9sJ40JLC4ZwouaysFpmIpuWs5HzRqBtcmciInwlJbEH8Fi2l01JlRQMlCy6owOsUoCRHB64YHqVvA91jXXGHk_OVWrRj6sHni6eF770rJuSpct3dF6LG/s2048/IMG-3255.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiksEQfbZ6TBxTXs2GVpPkxZMZN9sJ40JLC4ZwouaysFpmIpuWs5HzRqBtcmciInwlJbEH8Fi2l01JlRQMlCy6owOsUoCRHB64YHqVvA91jXXGHk_OVWrRj6sHni6eF770rJuSpct3dF6LG/w640-h480/IMG-3255.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixTyQIgQwbwf261j-lgLWAUVMHKmBNJHi6c87Aem5oSRNG-JR92RNo99EfjPKnM5waXhvcB7q9Bo7QqBLloSZ-Frx_SlWs109C9c12Kco3OImb0XtH54viQlUPeRXQbuUsk6h6SUQSi2Dq/s2048/IMG-3263.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixTyQIgQwbwf261j-lgLWAUVMHKmBNJHi6c87Aem5oSRNG-JR92RNo99EfjPKnM5waXhvcB7q9Bo7QqBLloSZ-Frx_SlWs109C9c12Kco3OImb0XtH54viQlUPeRXQbuUsk6h6SUQSi2Dq/w640-h480/IMG-3263.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2ZUT5RaTNPRFdvj0N7sJ6GWugPkrByjQ3qiIQhFLJqW1aHXPtRyzcZDH2mkvoXPI6POPIg9I3L18N-tFXxOjAzh2O7nwT9vIxp6zFOXgeEhA7qq6xGJGOVGx2e7RPmtYy_3cniXNUbkqr/w640-h480/IMG-3264.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="640" /></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /><br /><br /><div style="text-align: justify;">Finally I spent some time pondering what to do with the PCMCIA slot, which was empty ? back when PCMCIA was the primary means of adding capabilities to laptops there were all kinds of devices available in this format. I pondered getting a sound card , thinking it might unburden the onboard sound card ? In the end I decided to get a blanking plate and fit it with some extra ventilation holes. I bought a cheap plastic blanking insert, which I managed to jam half way in. When I finally got it out , the slots door was jammed open. I pondered this and decided to live with it. So I have a jammed open PCMCIA slot with no card or cover. OK it might get a bit dusty but it also allows some airflow inside the laptop which helps, and I can blow out with air duster from time to time.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1rX8I59uGwYkULISj490AYHExLDHjGJK9Rzg7_3lzDnFBxpNy5RT9nhNepe_tBVqVsXySZYaD193zuBuJSfUuzrAi3dcsGzGuNIA9G51aRRdh751bRuThhr5hBc8oIboZSlzULufiBfhZ/s2048/IMG-3290.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1rX8I59uGwYkULISj490AYHExLDHjGJK9Rzg7_3lzDnFBxpNy5RT9nhNepe_tBVqVsXySZYaD193zuBuJSfUuzrAi3dcsGzGuNIA9G51aRRdh751bRuThhr5hBc8oIboZSlzULufiBfhZ/w480-h640/IMG-3290.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">PCMCIA slot with open door</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /><div style="text-align: justify;">The most recent thing I have done was to replace the CMOS battery. I was noticing sometimes warning messages when booting and its probably well overdue. it was easy to do I followed this video from Ultimate DIY <a href="https://youtu.be/L6LnYbOPJjs">https://youtu.be/L6LnYbOPJjs</a>, it was pretty simple, though easier as I ordered a 3-wire battery online from ebay, so didn't need to do any soldering.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /><br /><br /><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZZHFM020M6oqFY8bnhErfCYQVQOJ5Q_QN4B49jT2ddo1Yp42xE_xCmXuGdCOkIr3QARPqnuuqkdY0-BIyVmdV0C_56i7qrp-qpO5tQF2SuTrA-aNLv6UACgwKPZkeoX-PJTFnm5zsRFW7/s2048/IMG-3250.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZZHFM020M6oqFY8bnhErfCYQVQOJ5Q_QN4B49jT2ddo1Yp42xE_xCmXuGdCOkIr3QARPqnuuqkdY0-BIyVmdV0C_56i7qrp-qpO5tQF2SuTrA-aNLv6UACgwKPZkeoX-PJTFnm5zsRFW7/w640-h480/IMG-3250.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: justify;"><br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table></div></div><div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;"><span style="text-align: justify;">While I had the keyboard removed I blew air duster through the fan and board to remove dust and crumbs. It seems a little quieter now , perhaps the fan is less stressed.</span></td></tr></tbody></table></div></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div></div>I do love this old laptop. It's small, still looks very modern, but in a different way to the world of sleek aluminium airbooks etc. It has useful features too, the external SD card reader is handy, for rapidly copying digital images.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;">One final tweak was to use a wireless mouse. While the red tracker pad works OK, I still struggle a bit with it. I use a small Logitech wireless mouse , which works well and the small slimline receiver neatly fits in one of the two USB ports. It's interesting how the laptop feels a lot faster when used with the external mouse.</div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi26D4VWJzPJvSVTrTC48AzF4h5G9RD-C90aJ59zcyjCcZ3KEXcHwfFR0OTMjrVSFYHsGt9HZrkTysNMxWSx_BQ0oOJypXo9egz2m0mKYroRAYlLedHZ6-vc6m1pnlcCgXuz73xfP-qGBO-/s2048/IMG-3291.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi26D4VWJzPJvSVTrTC48AzF4h5G9RD-C90aJ59zcyjCcZ3KEXcHwfFR0OTMjrVSFYHsGt9HZrkTysNMxWSx_BQ0oOJypXo9egz2m0mKYroRAYlLedHZ6-vc6m1pnlcCgXuz73xfP-qGBO-/w640-h480/IMG-3291.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div> </div><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /></div></div>Mr Iveshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14965084993191032538noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8000191682087974772.post-89724465205243261482020-06-27T10:41:00.006+01:002020-09-10T06:37:51.605+01:00Cheap ,easy and quiet LP record cleaning with "ultrasonic" and vacuum phases<div><br /></div><div><br /></div><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="270" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/JO-awWrXF1Y" width="480"></iframe>Mr Iveshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14965084993191032538noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8000191682087974772.post-26187149471033264712020-04-05T16:44:00.001+01:002020-09-10T06:38:23.755+01:00Fixing a Karcher pressure cleaner that no longer dispenses detergent<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHWSfu6xJX2tumq-6izqXv5d6p0z26yRATnyPYwAKsJh8Y2lQPX-UWb6jJPA8cKTQt7afDdOS1TNXfY48AmF0I6AUwJqaVHQi95npFY7cHzcgSApfi3qBed2FMYFIkTJ_zSFni-svP0eS1/s1600/IMG-2709.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHWSfu6xJX2tumq-6izqXv5d6p0z26yRATnyPYwAKsJh8Y2lQPX-UWb6jJPA8cKTQt7afDdOS1TNXfY48AmF0I6AUwJqaVHQi95npFY7cHzcgSApfi3qBed2FMYFIkTJ_zSFni-svP0eS1/s320/IMG-2709.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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I decided to clean some bikes during this unprecedented period of isolation, and got out a Karcher pressure cleaner we purchased some years ago for cleaning our decking. We have had it for 4 years, it works fine and creates a powerful spray which blasts the dirt off, and has a mode which dispenses detergent at a lower pressure first to fully soap the item, be it car or bike or garden furniture etc.</div>
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However while the pressure hose worked fine I could not get any detergent to dispense. I checked the bottle which inverts onto a connector with a rubber seal. All appeared fine.</div>
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I looked online via google and remembered that the detergent only dispenses when the nozzle dial on the gun part is turned down to the 'Mix' setting. However I tried this and it made no difference.</div>
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There are clear pipes which deliver the detergent from the bottle dispenser via a dial which sets the amount. I could see no movement through these pipes<br />
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I decided to open the Karcher which involved first disconnecting the Kercher from both the Mains electricity and from the water . You will need a Phillips screwdriver, a T10 torx screwdriver and a tray to collect the parts.<br /><br /><b>WARNING: Only attempt this if you are capable with electrical items and dismantling things in an orderly and careful fashion. If in doubt get a qualified repairer to undertake this</b><br />
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Then removing two phillips screws from where the main handle fixes to the body. The green hose from the main body unclips from the drum winder mechanism by remove a clip around the neck from the handle<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCDyQ7aKOlNhkk86KAB-KZW9u6SuVExI2d17BHq_vlT1pCETD0XtVfhOUurbaMXPDUaUnrQiP2PBkVHq1Bz4dHwep8sqIOOugDYJIvwsEI0QBqgLnNAwL2-I1wm9NM2FRyqhjib2Od09ga/s1600/IMG-2712.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCDyQ7aKOlNhkk86KAB-KZW9u6SuVExI2d17BHq_vlT1pCETD0XtVfhOUurbaMXPDUaUnrQiP2PBkVHq1Bz4dHwep8sqIOOugDYJIvwsEI0QBqgLnNAwL2-I1wm9NM2FRyqhjib2Od09ga/s320/IMG-2712.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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Then removing 8 T10 torx screws that secure the black and yellow sections of the main shell. Please use the correct driver , you dont want to foul the heads</div>
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Carefully separate the two halves of the case. Its heavy and care is needed but you should be able to see the main pump<br />
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There are two internal clear pipes to pump detergent. I pulled the hoses from their connectors and examined them . I noticed that they use a form of stent a black plastic semi-plug. I think these are to either reduce the flow of detergent and maybe also prevent kinking of the pipes.</div>
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However I also noticed that old detergent had turned to a kind of jelly in the pipes. This was the problem, I washed all the pipes in warm soapy water , squeezed out the stents and the solidified detergent so that I could run warm water through the pipes. I then put the stents back and then reconnected the pipes to the pump as before. It's a good idea to take a few pictures as you go, your machine may differ<br />
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Once reassembled the detergent flowed freely through the pipes and machine works fine again.</div>
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I think the issue is that the Karcher had had little use for 12-18 months including hot and cold weather where it had been stored in an outside shed. Residual detergent had remained in the pipes and solidified. if you believe you will be storing it for a while it may be good to disconnect the detergent bottle and run the machine until all detergent has been pumped through. In fairness it may suggest this in the documentation, I just couldnt find what I'd done with it<br />
<br />Mr Iveshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14965084993191032538noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8000191682087974772.post-63014285848458684622019-11-13T08:27:00.003+00:002020-09-10T06:38:51.284+01:00Repairing a Bosch microwave oven with a rusty door<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I'm ashamed to say that recently I noticed rust developing at the base of the microwave interior glass door panel, and the paint flaking. Cooking items like potatoes releases a lot of moisture , which probably should be wiped away immediately to avoid this, but when you are preparing a meal and everything you forget (or I do at least). The Microwave is a Bosch and has a face plate so it fits into a recess in our fitted kitchen.</div>
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I looked into replacing the door but Bosch do not supply this as a spare, not could I find a donor oven online. A whole new oven would be around £300, which seemed a lot for a problem that might be fixable. </div>
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I read online about Rusty Microwave ovens, and advice ranged from "<i>It'll be fine</i>" through to " <i>immediately remove the oven and place in a lead lined container at the bottom of the sea</i>" type of response. Filtering the informed advice from the hysterical took a while. In the USA you can purchase Microwave oven paint, and while I couldnt find it in my local hardware shops, I did find an ebay seller selling a microwave touch-up kit consisting of a small tin of gloss black paint, emery paper , brushes and a stirrer for £10. Worth a go I reasoned</div>
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<b>WARNING: Only attempt this if you are capable with electrical items and dismantling things in an orderly and careful fashion. If in doubt get a qualified repairer to undertake this</b><br />
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So first of all I removed and disconnected the microwave from its recess and from the electricity.</div>
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I reasoned that working on the door would be much easier with it removed from the oven<br />
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This necessitated removing the case from the oven, which was secured by screws along the back and sides. I placed all screws and removed hardware on a plastic tray so I didn't lose anything<br />
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This gave me access to the hinges which each had two bolts holding in place. Accessing the top bolts was easy from above, but the two lower bolts needed access through holes in the base. One of which is blocked by plastic trim which had to also be removed (two more screws)</div>
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Below you see one of the bolts , which conveniently features a Phillips screw head too, via the access hole, the second bolt is blocked by the trim (top)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp17MAslGkUiL4SgVQAlJdYr-NLIRAl9zkwRP-B9nol0YLwT_lX9W0Tjq4efKBkocx7pGeiB7wOUZZY-XqVHid43jqaO4ZvFL3mvxfkE9KQMDRwiIE91RhhC23jaoAblAbwkNEELX_gWny/s1600/IMG-1622.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp17MAslGkUiL4SgVQAlJdYr-NLIRAl9zkwRP-B9nol0YLwT_lX9W0Tjq4efKBkocx7pGeiB7wOUZZY-XqVHid43jqaO4ZvFL3mvxfkE9KQMDRwiIE91RhhC23jaoAblAbwkNEELX_gWny/s320/IMG-1622.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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With the trim removed and the bolts undone (they were very stiff) I was able to remove the entire door</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2Q_ix8sQ8u3RC9D247NlEErMFcPPfEmaBY82ZcEnAblFIxVt49Aw7WGtYHnsj-GaVGt6dTzcWkEu58eqSIUMRsFR4RIebXk3J61GOVkBVC5kRaC5TNBPpkvqvs6xENPzX5QsWdUkhik32/s1600/IMG-1623.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2Q_ix8sQ8u3RC9D247NlEErMFcPPfEmaBY82ZcEnAblFIxVt49Aw7WGtYHnsj-GaVGt6dTzcWkEu58eqSIUMRsFR4RIebXk3J61GOVkBVC5kRaC5TNBPpkvqvs6xENPzX5QsWdUkhik32/s320/IMG-1623.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Here you can see the rust and flaky paintwork</div>
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The inside window is surrounded by a plastic surround, which clips into place, and could be removed by gently easing a flat metal tool around the edge to disengage the internal clips. Gently does it, and it came out without breaking anything .</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZmJT6YMVf9DNjm2BzueFuP47eQJQj8SrNmLq3VUAAYxurOU4Zt_uaShuz49pEGedZpw_2PgtDelBm8GHy6BDsuFOq9zmKoxKpACsWvM2xKRmVqmKT-s05tbaYtiIwmqmTF1hDtdVkSsMd/s1600/IMG-1626.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZmJT6YMVf9DNjm2BzueFuP47eQJQj8SrNmLq3VUAAYxurOU4Zt_uaShuz49pEGedZpw_2PgtDelBm8GHy6BDsuFOq9zmKoxKpACsWvM2xKRmVqmKT-s05tbaYtiIwmqmTF1hDtdVkSsMd/s320/IMG-1626.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Removing the plastic surround trim gave access to the window surround . I set about scraping off the loose paintwork using a knife</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQlJfP0EW-u6uZrSOfB1eqFVKnVRjPQW8OIVKq5EuRxj1Kbiw2SwZ7b7LPALMNdIhaJcJYbeq9_09FWr9ZI0jVtsBpzRmU9hlwfdhIArB_iT6P3xZIFm9amNQem1XxHvSNqPjCaaQLl8ts/s1600/IMG-1628.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQlJfP0EW-u6uZrSOfB1eqFVKnVRjPQW8OIVKq5EuRxj1Kbiw2SwZ7b7LPALMNdIhaJcJYbeq9_09FWr9ZI0jVtsBpzRmU9hlwfdhIArB_iT6P3xZIFm9amNQem1XxHvSNqPjCaaQLl8ts/s320/IMG-1628.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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I reasoned that if the integrity of the door frame was sound i.e. the rust had not caused any structural damage i.e. holes , it was safe to treat. If the door structure was compromised, then it would not provide a sufficient Microwave screen and would not be safe. I was relieved to find that the rust was surface only , not holes or severe damage to the underlying metal structure.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVoAaWF7P-0pds3MmGTbE1g3Vwk9BLE2NwC8Y-wyB6DNNQXU_OzciluXG6SUCZa1rkBMkRuPmzNYH9NavkxylNJn5ggjgc3mRsWNgc-OlNhyphenhyphenA6vQDu9ZDMvSkZ6l7Bzaqz12EJTatuzfd9/s1600/IMG-1631.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVoAaWF7P-0pds3MmGTbE1g3Vwk9BLE2NwC8Y-wyB6DNNQXU_OzciluXG6SUCZa1rkBMkRuPmzNYH9NavkxylNJn5ggjgc3mRsWNgc-OlNhyphenhyphenA6vQDu9ZDMvSkZ6l7Bzaqz12EJTatuzfd9/s320/IMG-1631.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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Once I had the paint scraped back I used a hobby drill with a wire brush attachment to remove as much rust as I could. </div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">NOTE TAKE GREAT CARE NOT TO SCRATCH THE WINDOW. IT FEATURES A PROTECTIVE METAL MESH WHICH PROTECTS THE EXTERIOR FROM THE MICROWAVE RADIATION.</span></b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRT9GP7FQLwiBGVr_NIAzZvKkHTYvCUVj4wlwI3FLMFyvV6qzVg3eKmJqbT9scv5F1jkX-cJ_-GfBGCdf4RfZHLLP8t8YxHeYVFmPuhiU92ydRbR0cGjki2UAWq_CWW0Xnj64c2ACucP8b/s1600/IMG-1632.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRT9GP7FQLwiBGVr_NIAzZvKkHTYvCUVj4wlwI3FLMFyvV6qzVg3eKmJqbT9scv5F1jkX-cJ_-GfBGCdf4RfZHLLP8t8YxHeYVFmPuhiU92ydRbR0cGjki2UAWq_CWW0Xnj64c2ACucP8b/s320/IMG-1632.JPG" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1iPDg0W2jmvLcDNcSc7bbYL1c0PhO-O_aMp01mXgr49h8mLzzdWDVBmkjRpqIJLp7Vrf4YdhIHRwA9ffY48dvCOzlXjZ4YCX-mU7Tf2ZGx9JdFoyoInDjWo3Px475gTcXHC9axgU41hkA/s1600/IMG-1633.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1iPDg0W2jmvLcDNcSc7bbYL1c0PhO-O_aMp01mXgr49h8mLzzdWDVBmkjRpqIJLp7Vrf4YdhIHRwA9ffY48dvCOzlXjZ4YCX-mU7Tf2ZGx9JdFoyoInDjWo3Px475gTcXHC9axgU41hkA/s320/IMG-1633.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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Once I had the rust sanded back and I'd used a vacuum cleaner to remove the dust, I treated the rusted areas with an anti-rust treatment. It's basically an acid which reacts with the iron oxide and creates a good surface to paint.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVMj4gDJP37fVgMDZIS_e8Rw6dKGXwMbzyyZNK-wbzolbRPQtNJZZe3g26ecc42NwQvh_Oyg5fsUwdTu7twuZVohT4VwvI5oJNBsTdaecOVDu5xW5XKli7Vygk6RmlApJooJV0g91mi9ob/s1600/IMG-1636.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVMj4gDJP37fVgMDZIS_e8Rw6dKGXwMbzyyZNK-wbzolbRPQtNJZZe3g26ecc42NwQvh_Oyg5fsUwdTu7twuZVohT4VwvI5oJNBsTdaecOVDu5xW5XKli7Vygk6RmlApJooJV0g91mi9ob/s320/IMG-1636.JPG" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxAi7v8OlgBFpsflv7HSSM1nbAhtbUAixzbmwrpVAGIBiJE8l560zerR7YP2YCLd_RwahYB40bRRHFOkyf0uKX9JP3Aml37gsI3qShyBPWojZPC-f9zUxtjigpw2dvDT1Koeav59Mp6hYn/s1600/IMG-1635.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxAi7v8OlgBFpsflv7HSSM1nbAhtbUAixzbmwrpVAGIBiJE8l560zerR7YP2YCLd_RwahYB40bRRHFOkyf0uKX9JP3Aml37gsI3qShyBPWojZPC-f9zUxtjigpw2dvDT1Koeav59Mp6hYn/s320/IMG-1635.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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I let this dry, it changes the rust frst to a blue colour then to black.<br />
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Once dried over night, I painted the rusted section, with two coats of the Microwave paint, each coat allowing 24 hours to dry<br />
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Here you can see completely reassembled, reversing the sequence above and back to normal. <br />A repaired rusted door . While the paint finish internally is not as smooth as original, it is sound and not visible externally. Good enough and cheaper than a new oven. Job done</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9B8BuDh7IOuftoxgpc-dEjsGT4EHQxdgbpQ8zMuiYjPzIrsnj0L2b6h8OcPEofhOtItg9qw82cXAjg5XmYN2JLs1USbmmiGdrON20sXckK33eUAjlaPhm_X4XiGl57H5tDbdjovTA6ani/s1600/IMG-1647.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9B8BuDh7IOuftoxgpc-dEjsGT4EHQxdgbpQ8zMuiYjPzIrsnj0L2b6h8OcPEofhOtItg9qw82cXAjg5XmYN2JLs1USbmmiGdrON20sXckK33eUAjlaPhm_X4XiGl57H5tDbdjovTA6ani/s320/IMG-1647.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br />Mr Iveshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14965084993191032538noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8000191682087974772.post-76219211002691622002019-07-29T22:07:00.001+01:002021-01-21T08:08:59.763+00:00Pioneer PL12D service - revisited<style type="text/css">
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I'm delighted to receive messages from readers who have found my <a href="http://mr-ives.blogspot.com/2013/07/restoring-pioneer-pl-12d-turntable.html">Pioneer PL12D blog</a> of use. I recently received this article from a correspondent - Dirk Sipes, and wanted to share it. His approach is that of an engineer, rather than my amateur efforts, and there are some very interesting details around things like bearing material and the nature of the suspension springs. He has also owned the deck for 40 years since new, which speaks volumes about both their quality and his care. <br /><br />Here it is :<br />
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<b>About me:</b></div>
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Readers be aware that I have tried to use names for parts as they appear on the service schematics for the PL-12D that are available on VinylEngine.com, thus bushings referenced in the blog are what I call cushions, etc.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Also, I have provided some locations where products that I used can be obtained.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Those businesses do not even know I list them, and my use does not necessarily represent an endorsement, although I have found them to reputable.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>My thanks to Mr. Ives for helping me to post this.</div>
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<b>PURPOSE</b><span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span></div>
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I am undertaking the servicing of this turntable because I do not like the sound I get when listening to it through headphones.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>There seems to be an underlying low frequency hum, not the 60Hz power hum, but something irritating nonetheless. ( I use Sennheiser HD-424 and HD-598 headphones.)<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Also, I recognize that the resurgent interest in vinyl is bringing this turntable back into vogue, and that many new owners have no idea what the provenance of their units are, or what an original really looked like.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I take this opportunity to provide a glimpse into the original presentation as delivered from the factory.</div>
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<b>PROVENANCE</b></div>
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I bought my Pioneer PL-12D II in 1968 in Ontario, Oregon, USA.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The cost was $100, which in today’s<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>money represents $735 in buying power.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I am the original and only owner.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I have never before opened the deck of the turntable, sufficing to service it from the top with oil, belts and high viscosity damping fluid.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I have cherished this fully manual turntable, and have only one other, the semi-auto version.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I’ve used it for 40 years mostly to transfer vinyl recordings to cassette tapes and later to digitize (gasp) my vinyl records.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>So It’s not heavily used, just constantly lightly used.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I know that some readers will disbelieve that after 40 years the grease is still viable, the foam was not crumbly, the rubber bushings were usable, etc.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>All I can say is that it has always been part of my stereo system, lightly but constantly used, oiled once in a while, never stored away, and it has seen the demise of 4 belts which were replaced before they caused damage. I have replaced the original Shure ceramic cartridge.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Other than the belts and the cartridge, it’s original, and the good condition of the parts testify to the quality of the manufacture, assuming that the environment in which the unit has been located is clean and moderate temperature, such as has been my living quarters.</div>
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<b>ON THE OUTSIDE</b></div>
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A sticker on the back says, “Pioneer, model PL-12D-II, stereo turntable, 120 volts, 11 watts, AC 60Hz, Pioneer Electronics Corp, made in Japan, serial No. VD32063MP”.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The turntable was provided with a dustcover, rubber mat with silver decorative ring to cover the platter, an adapter for 45 rpm records, a vial of oil (long since gone, but I remember it being about the viscosity of sewing machine oil), an original rubber belt also long since gone, a small screwdriver and a ceramic cartridge labeled “Shure<span class="s1"> RS-8T<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>R1000EDT Realistic”.</span></div>
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I<b>NITIAL LOOK INSIDE</b></div>
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<span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span>I opened the deck, as Mr-Ives does, except using a metal paint can opener with its hook to pull up in the front locking slot, as I did not want to put too much pressure on the plastic control levers, and my deck seemed to stick at first.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I loosened the screws in the sliding slots by only 2 turns, slid them inward, and retightened.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I propped the metal deck up with a<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>sanding belt eraser, a block of rubber 2”x2”x12”, which did good service by not slipping no matter where I placed it. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span></div>
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<b>WIRING</b></div>
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<span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span>The wiring is set up for single frequency 60Hz input, there is no switch to change to 50Hz.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The main power comes in via a 2-wire plug and cord, which attaches to a solder block which hangs underneath the deck near the main spindle shaft housing, the neutral line then going to the on-off switch and then back to the block, the power then going to both sides of the motor.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>There is NO ground wire from the mains to the solder block or the motor.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>And it doesn’t matter which way the plug is inserted into the US standard 60Hz wall receptacle as the motor turns correctly either way.</div>
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<span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span>Entirely separate from the power wiring, the audio leads are two male RCA plugs from a single flat uni-cable, which has a thin ground wire embedded in between the two signal wires.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>These wires attach to a second solder block which is attached under the deck just inward of the tone arm mounting.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The fine wires that attach to the cartridge then route from this second solder block up into the tone arm mounting screw. At this second solder block, the ground wire is connected to two black fine wires that lead to the cartridge, also to the metal deck, and to a metal laminate covering the entire inside bottom of the plinth. Originally, there was no provision to connect this grounding setup into the mains power ground. The owners manual instructed that this ground wire be connected to the GND terminal on a receiver or power amp.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I note this because I know of instances where a lead was connected to this ground wire and inserted independently into the mains third female socket (the mains ground) in an attempt to eliminate hum in circuits where the turntable was being used without a receiver; ie input directly to a computer, or through a RIAA equalizer device such as the USB Phono Plus audiophile computer interface by ART. (Of course, I myself would <span class="s2">never</span> attempt such a Rube Goldberg setup….lol.)<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I have since come to my senses and connect this ground wire where indicated on a receiver or the external Phono Plus unit.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>But I WOULD BE INTERESTED TO HEAR FROM OTHERS ON HOW THEY CONNECT GROUND TO CONTROL HUM.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>While I am on the subject of RIAA, one of the reasons I bought this PL-12D in the first place was that it had a ceramic cartridge that output enough voltage to connect to the microphone inputs of a Sony tape recorder.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>This was obviously prior to the time I came to understand that to hear the base component of music correctly, the signal from a vinyl record <span class="s2">must</span> be corrected via that RIAA curve in a pre-amp or computer program.</div>
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<b>SPRINGS</b></div>
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<span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span>Before opening, the deck was flat with the wood frame all around.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It was springy, but I did not consider it unusually so, and as the turntable usually sits on a weighted shelf mounted to a wall corner and independent of the floor, footfall vibration has not been a problem.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I found the foam buffers inside the springs to be intact, dark grey, not powdery at all, merely deeply formed into the spring.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I did replace the foam, however, as I could not resist trying for the incremental increase in stability reported by others. I found that the light yellow/white foam from a camping pad did well and did indeed reduce the oscillations of the deck slightly. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span>On feeling the springs before removing them, it was apparent that they are of different strengths, based on their deflection under the same weight. That the springs are all different is also indicated by the part numbers on the service diagram, where each has a different number (while the foam buffer inserts all share the same number).<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Three of the springs also have different colors painted on them, while the fourth is left unmarked.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I tested the springs for strength and the results are below.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I am being particular here, as I know that other owners have shifted the springs around attempting to level the deck cosmetically with the plinth.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>In doing so, they may or may not be rectifying what others have done before them, but it will be of interest to know what the original positioning of the springs was, at least on my unit.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>IMHO, it is more important to have a certain spring at the point it was designed for, to deal with the mass apparent at that point and its vibrational characteristics, than it is to level the deck for cosmetic purposes, but then I am speaking from the position of having a cosmetically level deck to begin with. Remember that different masses absorb vibrations differently, and I believe the springs were designed to not only support different weights at their respective locations, but also to deal with the different vibrational and resonance damping characteristics of those masses, as well as for damping incoming vibrations such as footfall on surrounding support structure.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It would appear that the solution was simple, but the evaluation, though complex, was completely within the knowledge of vibrational analysis in the 1970’s, even though we were still using slide rules at the time. However, it IS also possible that the springs were designed by some engineering student based solely on the desire for damping incoming vibration (without regard for the resonances from the masses above) while keeping the deck level with the plinth, and in that case I am just blowing smoke, lol.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>In either case, I have decided to leave my springs where they were, and just document where I found them for interest.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>BTW:<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I found only one spring with a rubber washer, at the right front of deck, which was really a rubber layer glued into the hole which accepts the spring. Because other people have found washers in diverse configurations, I believe the washers were used to level the deck, and thus may be a better way to do that than by moving the springs.</div>
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<span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span>The test for strength was conducted by applying 1.5 pounds weight and measuring the deflection. Range of error estimated at 15%. Lesser deflection means stronger spring. Note that the strongest spring is located closest to the heaviest weight which is the motor.</div>
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Spring Position<span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span><span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span>Part Number<span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span><span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span>color<span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span><span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span><span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span>deflection</div>
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right front of deck<span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span><span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span>PBH-010-0<span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span><span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span>none<span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span><span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span><span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span>.20”</div>
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right rear of deck<span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span><span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span>PBH-002-A<span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span><span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span>Blue & Green<span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span>.11”</div>
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left rear of deck<span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span><span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span>KBH-149-0<span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span><span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span>Green & Red<span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span><span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span>.05”</div>
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left front of deck<span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span><span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span>PBH-004-A<span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span><span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span>Black<span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span><span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span><span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span>.08”</div>
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<b>MOTOR</b></div>
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<span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span>The motor rests on rubber cushions (bushings) which have grooves which allow insertion into the mounting plate.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The cushions were grey but pliable and not crumbly at all.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>With the mounting bolts tightened, the cushions do not come into contact with the nuts installed on the underneath of the deck plate, and there is about 1/16” space above the cushion. So the cushions are not compressed by the tightening of the mounting bolts, but only deform slightly under the weight of the motor.</div>
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<span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span>I unmounted the motor but did not disassemble it nor unsolder the wiring. I oiled it with a synthetic clock oil of about 10w as follows:<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The excellent photos of Mr. Ives makes it possible to understand that the lower bearing is lubricated from oil held in felt pads near the bearing.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>He also said that the rotor shaft could be moved up a small amount to allow access to the part of the shaft inserting into the lower bearing.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>So I did what he initially did, only more so, by placing one drop at a time on the shaft just above the lower bearing and allowing it to slowing creep into the bearing.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I was able to place 12 drops of oil there, about 0.2 ml by volume, without any sling out when the motor was started.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I thought it best to try this, knowing that this amount is 4 to 6 times what is said to be used at any one time when lubricating the top bearing, twelve times what Mr. Ives initially tried, and knowing that the tangential force on the lower bearing is considerably less than that on the top bearing, and especially since I did not want to unsolder the power leads at the first solder block or disassemble the motor and face the problems of reassembly.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>As for the upper bearing, I placed 3 drops of oil directly into the upper bearing where the shaft fits, and 3 more into the opening leading to the trough that feeds the upper bearing.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>At this point, it remained to be seen whether this lubrication would reduce the rumble that I was hearing in headsets when listening to vinyl on this turntable, the main reason for starting this maintenance.</div>
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<span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span>This is a good place to mention that my turntable did not come with a second brass motor pulley with which some units could be adapted to use 50Hz power.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Also, it is interesting to note that where the belt rides on the motor pulley for each speed there is a slight bulge on the pulley.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The center of the bulge is where the center of the belt should be, and the bulge actually acts to return the belt to that location when any displacement occurs, exactly as can be seen on band saw wheels, the pulleys of belt driven machine shops, and the belt drive pulley of the old large steam tractors.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Except when changing speeds, which must be done only with the motor running, the belt must not contact the belt guide (the brass fork which moves the belt up and down).</div>
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<b>MOTOR MOUNT RUBBER CUSHIONS</b></div>
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<span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span>As stated above, the cushions were grey but pliable and not crumbly at all. I revitalized them with LaCrosse Rubber Conditioner, as I did not trust the glycerine idea.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I soaked them for about 90 minutes, and then dried them.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>They returned to the original aged grey color as drying finished.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>But they <span class="s2">were</span> more pliable and soft. The consistency of the rubber is about that of the rubber used in windshield wiper blades, soft, pliable and smooth.</div>
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<span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span>For those whose cushions have become unusable, I have drawn a sketch of the cushion with the DIMENSIONS IN INCHES.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I have no idea how one would be made.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span></div>
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<b>BELT</b></div>
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<span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span>I have in the past replaced the rubber platter belt.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>So the one I took off was not original. Still, it is interesting to compare it with the new one I obtained from turntableneedles.com (item FBM 23.6 at $10 each plus a little shipping).<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The old one was slack, barely staying on the platter when taken off the motor pulley.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It measured about 24.5” long, 0.19” wide, 0.021” thick, and produced a speed of 34 1/3 RPM (yes, thirty-four).<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The new one measured about 23 3/8” long, 0.20” wide, 0.020” thick, was much tighter when placed on the motor pulley and produced a speed of exactly 33 1/3 RPM. (Cross my heart and hope to die!) The explanation for this effect will be forthcoming from a better analyst than myself….</div>
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<b>CENTER SHAFT</b></div>
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<span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span>I removed the center shaft from the brass assembly by loosening the set screw 4 turns and pulling the shaft straight up.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>There was some white grease on the bottom of the shaft.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Removing the grease revealed a divot in the precise center of the bottom of the shaft.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Microscopic examination showed machining marks within that divot, not the shiny surface of a wear pattern, thus I believe the divot was intentionally manufactured into the bottom of the shaft.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>At the bottom of the brass shaft assembly tube was a 1/8” steel ball, also with a bit of the white grease still on it.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The grease was still viable.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The ball had a circular dark mark on it within the grease, which could have corresponded to the sides of the divot in the base of the shaft.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I removed the ball with a slightly magnetized probe and cleaned the brass assembly and the spindle with alcohol.</div>
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<span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span>I know the argument has been made that the divot is the result of wear and should be eliminated by machining the base of the spindle perfectly flat.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The theory is that for minimal friction the area of contact must be minimized.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>That theory is not true, as it can be shown that the force required to overcome friction to move one surface across another is dependent only upon the weight holding the surfaces together and the condition of the surfaces, and is independent of the area of contact.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>(Google for “friction equation”.)</div>
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<span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span>So why put a ball there?<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Why not just place the bottom of the shaft against another flat surface?<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Well, the problem of mating two flat surfaces is expensive, as any variation between the two would cause a variation in the angle of the spindle every revolution, which could cause the platter to wobble as the spindle would be constrained only by the walls of the brass shaft assembly tube, and there has to be some gap there to allow for insertion and lubrication.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Also, the ball is preferable not because it’s cheap, but mostly because when lubrication enters the picture it’s a “horse of a different color”, especially when considered over time and with extended wear on mating surfaces, and considering just how the lubrication is applied. Lubrication changes the nature of the surface of the mating material.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>But to do that it must be present.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Some mechanism for providing it must be designed.</div>
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<span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span>Consider a flat surface contacting a spherical surface with a layer of lubrication (grease) in between.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>As the surfaces make contact, the grease is pushed aside, because contact is made at an almost infinitely small point. Even as deformation occurs, the grease is pushed further aside.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Any positive effect of the grease being present can be realized only if some of it has been absorbed into the molecular or crystalline structure of the surfaces, or remains within surface imperfections (admittedly, both conditions are useful).<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Otherwise the grease is not present in the contact area in a major way.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>But still, lubrication is important in friction reduction, so a way of providing it long term is desirable, and in a better way than depending upon what might be stuck in a surface imperfection.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I think the divot idea was remarkable. <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span>The divot does not have to be perfectly smooth nor a match for the spherical surface, in fact it must be deeper than the surface of the sphere can reach, for this idea to work.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>So the sphere makes contact with the shoulders of the divot, and the deeper recesses of the divot can act as a reservoir of lubricant, which is trapped above the sphere and is forced out into the contact area only as wear allows the sphere to reach deeper into the divot.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>So the grease is actually pumped out to the area where it is needed over time, on the shoulders of the divot.</div>
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<span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span>There is a caveat:<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I am considering replacing the existing ball, which has mated with the divot through wear, with another ball (albeit of smoother surface texture) which may not precisely match the shoulder of the divot.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>And to make matters worse, I’ll do all I can to reduce the friction and wear between the two so the time required to mate the two exactly will be extended.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>But when I look at the surface of the old 1/8” ball and see all the microscopic imperfections in it, and compare it to what I plan to put in its place, I am willing to take the chance.</div>
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<b>BALLS</b></div>
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<span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span>So I went looking for a better ball.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Now the Chinese have 1/8” balls by the millions, and cheap too, and that’s what may be available so readily in bike shops.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>But in my heart I couldn’t trust the specs. (Really, they advertise grades of G5 for chrome steel balls at a cost of just pennies.)<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>So I found a company called “BC Precision”, which described itself thus: “We are a small family owned & operated company located in Chattanooga, Tennessee that specializes in precision balls. We were founded in 2011…”<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>IMHO if a small company is going to compete with the Chinese, it is going to have to have good service and good quality.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Their website shows 1/8” chrome steel balls available in Grade 25.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>But I wanted better, and settled on their “1/8 inch ZrO2 Zirconium Oxide Ceramic Ball Bearings G5”. That’s right, a ceramic.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>BC Precision says it more resistant to fracture than chrome steel and doesn’t even need lubrication, but also that grease won’t hurt it.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>When examined microscopically, the surface of the ceramic is orders of magnitude smoother than the surface of the original ball, and it rolls quieter and straighter on glass too. So that’s what I’m using.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>(And now the reader knows just how picky I can be….) <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span>BTW:<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>BC Precision website indicates that their carbon steel balls are often used in semi-precision bearings and in bicycles (so carbon steel balls may be what is available in bike shops) and that these carbon steel balls are G1000, much rougher than the G25 chrome or G5 ceramic.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Also, in carbon steel, the closest they make to 1/8” is 3mm.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>So my choice really was between the Chrome or Ceramic.</div>
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<span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span>The microphotographs below show the old ball, compared with new ceramic G5, chrome steel G25 and carbon steel G1000 balls, all illuminated by a half moon light from the right, and held to a slide by a drop of white grease in the background.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The image of the light can be seen reflected at the 3 o’clock position in the new white ball, but is diffused to various degrees by surface pitting in the other balls.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Keep in mind that under a microscope, a shiny metal surface can look dark unless light is reflected directed from it into the lens system, but the translucence of the ceramic seems to allow it to look more true to life. Also, the edge of the balls in the photos looks fuzzy because the focal plane was set to be at the reflection of the light source.</div>
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<span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span>The grease left in the shaft assembly was white and nearly the same viscosity of a sample of old Lubriplate Aero that I had.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I contacted the Lubriplate company and was informed Lubriplate 630-AA would be a better match for my application, as Aero was made for aircraft use at altitude and thus low temperatures, so I procured some of the 630.</div>
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<span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span>I placed a drop of grease on the bottom of the spindle and pushed the ceramic ball into it, and letting the grease hold the ball in position, I inserted the spindle into the brass assembly. As there was not yet any oil present, the spindle did slide into position with only a little difficulty as the air slowly escaped.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I then placed a few drops of light “turbine” oil at the spindle.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Sewing machine oil would suffice.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>However, I advise against any kind of engine oil for servicing this turntable, as such oil has additives designed to help the oil maintain integrity at high temperatures, and these additives are not healthy for metal in any other application, strange as that may seem.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Use oil with no additives.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>After all this, the platter seems to turn by hand only about as easily as before.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Maybe it will be quieter.</div>
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<span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span>The ball I used can be found at <a href="https://www.bcprecision.com/collections/silicon-nitride-si3n4-bearing-balls/products/1-8-inch-zro2-zirconium-oxide-ceramic-ball-bearings-g5">https://www.bcprecision.com/collections/silicon-nitride-si3n4-bearing-balls/products/1-8-inch-zro2-zirconium-oxide-ceramic-ball-bearings-g5</a></div>
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If it seems expensive, talk to Cara at customer service, an incredibly nice person, who arranged to send me two samples free.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Grading for balls comes down to variations in sphericity, which also take into account surface imperfections (deviating from both perfectly smooth and perfectly round):</div>
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<span class="s1">Grade 5 - <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>.000005" maximum deviation<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span></span></div>
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<span class="s1">Grade 25 - <span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>.000025" maximum deviation<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span></span></div>
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<span class="s1">Grade 1000 - .001000” maximum deviation</span></div>
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<span class="s1"><b>THAT’S IT</b></span></div>
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<span class="s1"><span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span>I attempted no other work on the turntable.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The tone arm bearings seem tight, and the arm lowering mechanism is working perfectly (remember I did service it with damping fluid a few years ago).<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>The cartridge alignment is still in good adjustment per the built in overhand checker and also third party grid style tools.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>So I’ve replaced the belt, the 1/8” ball with grease, and the foam inserts in the springs.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I conditioned the rubber cushions supporting the motor, and oiled the top and bottom bearings of the motor and the spindle.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Let’s see how it sounds…..</span></div>
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<span class="s1"></span><br /></div>
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<span class="s1"><b>SUCCESS!</b></span></div>
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<span class="s1"><span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span>What I hear when the motor is turned on, but the stylus is NOT in contact with a record is a VERY faint hum, perhaps 10% of what I used to hear, but only audible with the volume above my normal listening level, and this sound has diminished with just a few hours of running. Lowering the stylus to contact a record in an unrecorded portion, I hear the smooth groove noise at least 10 times louder than the motor hum.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Then, when the music starts, even in quiet passages like the beginning of Brahms Symphony No. 2, those noises melt away, and I am once again listening to the music instead of defending myself from grating rumbles.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I feel I have succeeded.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>THANKS TO ALL WHO HAVE CONTRIBUTED TO THIS BLOG.</span></div>
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<span class="s1"><span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span>As I did not disassemble the motor, I expect no problems to develop as it runs longer periods.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>It should be only better with time.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>And now that I know just where to put it (where Mr. Ives put a single drop on the shaft to run into the bottom bearing), I can oil that in just minutes.</span></div>
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<span class="s1"><span class="Apple-tab-span"> </span>BTW:<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I did run the motor after I oiled and before I mounted it, and felt just a little fast vibration as I touched the frame of the motor, </span>perhaps from something as simple as out of balance brought about by the set screw on the motor pulley.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span><span class="s1">I then mounted it and ran it again and felt the same vibration.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I then mounted the platter and connected the belt and ran it again, and felt the same vibration in the frame of the motor.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span></span>When loaded with the belt, which applies tangential force to the shaft, I expected the unit to be less vibrational.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>This would have been typical of tangentially loaded bearings, which in my experience run quieter under load than when allowed to free float without load.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span><span class="s1">But the vibration is still there in the motor frame even under load, so my idea about tangentially loaded bearings being quieter under load may not be valid (humility strikes again!) and lends credence to the idea that the vibration IS due to an out of balance shaft. But I do NOT hear anything corresponding to this vibration when listening to a record. Evidently the cushions and the belt to a good job of isolating the vibration from the stylus, and the Pioneer engineers did not go to the expense of precisely balancing the drive shaft of the motor.</span></div>
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<span class="s1"><b>PARTS</b></span></div>
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<span class="s1">Original cartridge: Shure RS-8T<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>R1000EDT Realistic, replaced with Grado XTE+1elliptical obtained a few years ago from NeedleDoctor.com .</span></div>
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<span class="s1">Grease: </span>Lubriplate 630-AA<span class="s1"> .</span></div>
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<span class="s1">Ball: 1/8” steel, changed to 1/8" Inch Zirconium Oxide Ceramic.</span></div>
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<span class="s1">Belt:<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span></span> FBM 23.6 from turntableneedles.com, also avail from turntablebasics.com.</div>
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Oil: “clock oil” about 10w.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I don’t know where I got mine, but something like it can be had at</div>
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<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span><a href="https://www.emperorclock.com/clock-repair/oil-kits">https://www.emperorclock.com/clock-repair/oil-kits</a></div>
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<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>and “turbine oil” about 5w by Norvey, inc of Santa Ana, CA (sold in hardware stores with a pullout long plastic tube for a spout, located near the evaporative coolers).</div>
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Foam: cut from white open foam camping pad, not closed cell nor memory foam.</div>
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Rubber conditioner:<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>LaCrosse Rubber Conditioner from</div>
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<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span><a href="https://www.lacrossefootwear.com/rubber-conditioning-spray.html">https://www.lacrossefootwear.com/rubber-conditioning-spray.html</a></div>
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Supplies: I get things like record sleeves, damping fluid,<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>etc from turntablebasics.com</div>
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<b>EQUIPMENT</b></div>
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Pioneer SX-1050 receiver: this has a built in preamp and is what I normally run the turntable signal into for playing through house speakers.</div>
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Preamp for computer:<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>“USB Phono Plus Project Series by ART” is the preamp and “Audiophile Computer Interface” I use between the turntable and the computer.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>I believe there is a newer version, but mine works beautifully.</div>
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Headphones: Sennheiser HD-424 and HD-598 open aural design allow ambient sound to be heard.</div>
<br />Mr Iveshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14965084993191032538noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8000191682087974772.post-47388732156221240352019-06-18T20:19:00.000+01:002019-06-18T20:19:11.641+01:00Excellent Cartridge review site<br />
A feature of many of these blogs is my interest in vinyl records and turntables. Over the years I've acquired and restored a number of decks, all of which came with a cartridge, but were they worth keeping ?<br /><br />Well my friend , and fellow fan, Clive, has created a wonderful resource with a great deal of invaluable detail about a wider range of cartridges, and reviewed in classic decks like the PL12D, Rega Planar 2 and the Technics SL1200. Well worth visiting for the insight and detail around things such as optimal capacitive loading , for example<br /><br />
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<a href="https://phono-cartridge-reviews.co.uk/">PHONO CARTRIDGE REVIEWS</a><br /><br /></div>
Mr Iveshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14965084993191032538noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8000191682087974772.post-67526408539731499472019-06-14T07:54:00.002+01:002019-06-14T08:00:08.358+01:00Mending speaker drivers<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Some months back, I did a silly thing and blew one of the drivers in my speakers. I think while fumbling with the wires between my pre and power amps I may have run a tape monitor into the power. Anyway, there was a loud noise and after that one of the Dalesford drivers in my RAM 200 speakers was damaged. It still worked but sounded wrong, and applying gentle inward pressure revealed it was rubbing on the voice coil. Basically the wiring had over heated.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">I looked around for a replacement but my challenge was that the Dalesford drivers are no longer made, and the RAM 200 used a special large magnet version of the driver. Some KEF drivers were considered a drop in replacement, but again, it would require buying a second pair of speakers to cannibalise for parts, which also seemed wrong.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">I wondered if the speaker driver could be repaired, though I realised this was beyond anything I could do.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;">I found a few places on the internet that could do the work, though some seemed to take a very long time, with feedback indicating a wait of months. In the end I choose <a href="http://loudspeakerrepair.com/">loudspeakerrepair.com</a> in Belgium, who replied quickly and assured me they could do the work.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Shipping to and from Belgium for a large speaker driver was not cheap, but these speakers were very special to me, having been my fathers. I think if you shop around you may be able to find a cheaper courier. I was sending from the UK. </span><br /><br />I carefully wrapped and shipped the driver to their address. Van Poelvoorde Stefaan carried out the work very quickly , within a week,<span style="font-family: inherit;"> the cost of the repair was a fair price, and most important, they sounded exactly like the original on return. Less than two weeks after damaging my beloved speakers, they were sounding as new again. Now I even forget that I had one repaired , which is the best thing you can say.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">I am very pleased with their service</span><br />
<br />Mr Iveshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14965084993191032538noreply@blogger.com0Kruisken 16, 9991 Maldegem, Belgium51.1915549 3.493392399999947930.6710039 -37.815201600000051 71.7121059 44.801986399999947tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8000191682087974772.post-68262595011917317592018-12-11T08:01:00.003+00:002020-09-10T06:39:15.464+01:00Restoring a Harmon Kardon T40 turntable<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">A good friend recently spotted this turntable, being sold on ebay, buy it now at a reasonable price , and very close to where I live. We had both commented in the past that the Harmon Kardon T40 was a nice looking deck, with it's deep platter and champagne colour, so it was impossible to resist. Not that well known in the UK, and advertised as not working, with a hinge missing and a burn on the lid. I bid, won and collected it from the seller, who was very helpful , and it was exactly as described.<br /><br />Upon inspection the main problem with the deck not starting was due to the belt having petrified and broken into small pieces. the motor worked as I lifted the arm across the platter and appeared to correctly eject the arm at the end of side position. The motor turned fine.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">As well as the drive belt, the 4 rubber feet had also aged badly. As you can see from the picture ,all that remained was the 4 springs and parts of the rubber cup. I think there would have been a boot or castor on the end . These needed replacing or repairing as the deck sat very low, its baseboard resting on the surface. This deck is not a floating sub-chassis deck, it relies on the feet to </span>decouple<span style="font-family: inherit;"> it from external vibration.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Fortunately the rubber motor mounts seems supple and worked well.</span><br />
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I unscrewed the four feet, and removed the screws securing the base board. You can see that the deck is well made with a wooden plinth, ply wood cross bracing and a very neat layout. The deck uses a DC motor, features speed pitch control and 'lock' and , also adjustable output capacitance for the chosen cartridge, quite unusual for a turntable, something more often found on more expensive phono preamps.</div>
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The auto functions of the arm use a combination of LED optical detectors to sense when the arm crosses the start of the LP - and activates the motor. At the end of the side the arm activates a micro switch, which both cuts the motor and ejects the arm using a small servo to trip the raise/lower piston.</div>
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As described the deck was missing a hinge, but I recognised the type as common across a range of turntables including the Linn LP12 and the NAD 5120. I had a spare hinge from a donor deck in my attic. You can get individual examples on ebay for around £10.</div>
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Exactly as described the lid had an ugly burn, the seller thought it was from acid, perhaps an old battery had dripped onto the lid while in storage. next job was to use some chrome polish to buff that out. With time and elbow grease it was almost impossible to see.<br />
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Other features included a removable headshell, here you can see the included Goldring cartridge. A small plastic grube screw secures the headshell in place. It's a little delicate, and while this allows easy fitting of new cartridges, I dont think it is robust to support the kind of cartridge swapping associated with SME/Universal mounts.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMvZ8yWD3sqehOLPwCnqi3t_L6CnFThuPggpSMp1QdWYTeJzTWDrfP6X-fBuazHPnd7Q5zNUfZtRgFaT6wgl_Q7Le2zv1IJ5au6AgGbOUUWOEWzwajXCpCHt-EL875KjwgqxxpQq3C0bnB/s1600/IMG_0719.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMvZ8yWD3sqehOLPwCnqi3t_L6CnFThuPggpSMp1QdWYTeJzTWDrfP6X-fBuazHPnd7Q5zNUfZtRgFaT6wgl_Q7Le2zv1IJ5au6AgGbOUUWOEWzwajXCpCHt-EL875KjwgqxxpQq3C0bnB/s320/IMG_0719.JPG" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDA8TdbHcefxarom80yYu61HXxnAfDe8_TLqJe-eWuhIE9m1PjA5uZ_uxU7DLex56KBXyP0deSaUtRuYjJWWnGSlAjtNca9PccwF8t9Z__viG_4LrMO9UUCmmb1hKaA2T8W5OUJDT9zV5v/s1600/IMG_0727.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDA8TdbHcefxarom80yYu61HXxnAfDe8_TLqJe-eWuhIE9m1PjA5uZ_uxU7DLex56KBXyP0deSaUtRuYjJWWnGSlAjtNca9PccwF8t9Z__viG_4LrMO9UUCmmb1hKaA2T8W5OUJDT9zV5v/s320/IMG_0727.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Returning to the problem of the feet, I remembered I had some old turntable feet from an ancient abandoned project. Luckily the threaded brass rod from the rotted feet could be unscrewed and reattached to the rotel feet, using the original nut. So I was able to make new feet from both sets. The thread of the bolt is M6, so standard Technics SL1200 replacement feet, are also an option off the shelf. </div>
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The replacement feet fitted well and because I had retained the screw, they can be used to level the deck. The deck no longer sat on its baseboard</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuSC4b1QhbW5a7Lay2oIZODdtM6HxtK8Uu3fBeyKPWL65hEN42pW7YxPhwEBrHwvbKMp8EhoO4KB1kKiXxpb6YqyZVLKmLIlTQg1-nrgSud44rPy6viOkUxv9-gg7z1wswooxiUIMFXqEY/s1600/IMG_0740.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuSC4b1QhbW5a7Lay2oIZODdtM6HxtK8Uu3fBeyKPWL65hEN42pW7YxPhwEBrHwvbKMp8EhoO4KB1kKiXxpb6YqyZVLKmLIlTQg1-nrgSud44rPy6viOkUxv9-gg7z1wswooxiUIMFXqEY/s320/IMG_0740.JPG" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJSloqxIXa1La7P3Z2QwfG-VEqTMYU-MRUYXx_eD1nsMCxbFC34CML0G3dqUg75DgsGys6saokPLe91JtXSdxFYrhzyQph8nDrjXQ1JdSqekOewSzZ4Ypg7rrvWT6Itg2Tbu-4ZCRblzkl/s1600/IMG_0741.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJSloqxIXa1La7P3Z2QwfG-VEqTMYU-MRUYXx_eD1nsMCxbFC34CML0G3dqUg75DgsGys6saokPLe91JtXSdxFYrhzyQph8nDrjXQ1JdSqekOewSzZ4Ypg7rrvWT6Itg2Tbu-4ZCRblzkl/s320/IMG_0741.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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The lid polishing slowly worked its magic. I used AUTOSOL brand metal polish, which is a very fine cutting paste. It took a while but slowly the mark vanished, to the point where only a reddish marke is visible.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2dyuTeBENfWnx1ejWNamapf3-zNGnTGi3fAgonZ9vOCHWIJTZu-zotwLOdYsPzWe0-nocr0u1DPUvvQCtRz_KfAUCxygg6CRr1V5pSIu6CMdJ06fTvnjfxowqX3AtPdYKKzLSSJXEMXPZ/s1600/IMG_0744.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2dyuTeBENfWnx1ejWNamapf3-zNGnTGi3fAgonZ9vOCHWIJTZu-zotwLOdYsPzWe0-nocr0u1DPUvvQCtRz_KfAUCxygg6CRr1V5pSIu6CMdJ06fTvnjfxowqX3AtPdYKKzLSSJXEMXPZ/s320/IMG_0744.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">before</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOoLqpdkUIzFIzZkjWcSjy1YySoVW0hTT9CxC_z6OVbj80pz4_LGS6_DpUCO5UGdrhyphenhyphenCUePSRgDt-AeDJXVq6Dnh44dnzUhjEdIF6Bm36xNUQtI1hKVcjkUKxVoRhMhy6VhiLoGcw6PtXk/s1600/IMG_0746.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOoLqpdkUIzFIzZkjWcSjy1YySoVW0hTT9CxC_z6OVbj80pz4_LGS6_DpUCO5UGdrhyphenhyphenCUePSRgDt-AeDJXVq6Dnh44dnzUhjEdIF6Bm36xNUQtI1hKVcjkUKxVoRhMhy6VhiLoGcw6PtXk/s320/IMG_0746.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
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In certain light a dimple can be seen where some of the surface has been rubbed away, but it's not too bad</div>
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I ordered and fitted the new belt from <a href="https://www.thakker.eu/en/belts/turntables/harman-kardon-t-40-belt/a-2928/" target="_blank">William Thakker</a> , reliable and cheap . </div>
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It worked well. Initially I found that the speed was rather fast, and I needed to reduce the pitch control to get the strobe markings on the centre weight to remain stable. Later I found that I had left some debris on the motor pulley, from the old melted belt. I cleaned this off with a rag and some Isopropyl alcohol, till it was all gone, then the speed was correct and needed no adjustment. the speed was also correct with the 'LOCK' function engaged. I'm not sure if this is a preset or actually monitors the speed of the motor, but it keeps the speed correct as per the strobe markings</div>
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The deck sounds very nice. The sound is engaging , a little lighter than my Thorens TD321. Actually the deck both sounds like, and uses similar technology to the TD280, (see other blog entry).<br />
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I'm not familiar with the Goldring cartridge, and would tend toward getting a new stylus when you dont know the wear on the old one. The arm is very light so would suit a high compliance cartridge, for example the Ortofon OM-series should work well. It looks very smart indeed, and sounds great.<br />
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Mr Iveshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14965084993191032538noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8000191682087974772.post-22935062688119687262016-04-01T14:37:00.001+01:002016-05-09T23:57:15.624+01:00Marrakesh<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Normally my posts have been focused on the subject of repairing or recycling, hence the blog being called mending things. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">I decided to change a little and write a short blog post on my recent vacation to Morocco, and the city of Marrakesh . I guess mending my mind, it's good to have a break and explore somewhere new. Morocco is wonderful, friendly people, great food, and much to see. We had a great time exploring the city and the Atlas mountains and valleys.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We stayed at the Riad Le Clos des Arts (<span style="color: #0000ee; text-decoration: underline;">www.leclosdesarts.com)</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> which is a sublime sanctuary in the busy Medina of Marrakesh - an oasis of peace and quiet. Thoroughly recommended , Massimo and Giorgina were wonderful hosts.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">Inside <span style="text-align: left;">Riad Le Clos des Arts</span></span></td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip7si8X7tZLyrButI_beN_ShibTffD7OrFIRh7jQu70YcMOAt4n-TU0aYmOJX8nNVxm4A3Nz2yYFZWRiYepFCwEUNyQ87J9ZnaOT3h3d7AjE2N_RicDs7zBkulxCjkj1nEgGJNBt5YzBFA/s1600/IMG_2137.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip7si8X7tZLyrButI_beN_ShibTffD7OrFIRh7jQu70YcMOAt4n-TU0aYmOJX8nNVxm4A3Nz2yYFZWRiYepFCwEUNyQ87J9ZnaOT3h3d7AjE2N_RicDs7zBkulxCjkj1nEgGJNBt5YzBFA/s320/IMG_2137.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">We had two 1 day excursions with , to the Atlas Mountains and Valleys, and to the Port Town of Essaouira. Both were with Idir Najimi from <a href="http://www.saharadesertkingdom.com/">www.saharadesertkingdom.com</a>. <br /><br />Idir is a superb driver & guide has a 4x4 car , and he takes advantage of it's Off-road capabilities. Excellent English and extensive knowledge of the history, people and geology of Morocco. I hope to go on his Desert tour in the future</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">My family, Idir's 4x4 and the Atlas mountains in the background</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjETXoWoFsrPqmOGnR2JMLDpk-V5CgDbhEzYRY4M4PqsjcNmfMSD0Gfa9Ff5ZqkiB7swYvdj9OItLIagEbwt6XzkYHxIyjJzsDs4nXz5XoB28gkQS_za4re6tWZaOFs_7bvJnCRb8nxAc2p/s1600/IMG_2177.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjETXoWoFsrPqmOGnR2JMLDpk-V5CgDbhEzYRY4M4PqsjcNmfMSD0Gfa9Ff5ZqkiB7swYvdj9OItLIagEbwt6XzkYHxIyjJzsDs4nXz5XoB28gkQS_za4re6tWZaOFs_7bvJnCRb8nxAc2p/s400/IMG_2177.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">Chez Sam in Essaouira, great fish restaurant in Essaouira</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0-dWNqMHZDQdugWiF_VaiMvDiiOqBA4mLYYLJU6YLEQuSIKEsz1liPIoXss4VhLPLZ7pfUSuaR_pKwGTWkUJp9_RfAPPqsekCzHDxmKI1IUI2smaZj3MG_rghW77CIQOrp8Uf7uls2X2r/s1600/IMG_2164.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="151" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0-dWNqMHZDQdugWiF_VaiMvDiiOqBA4mLYYLJU6YLEQuSIKEsz1liPIoXss4VhLPLZ7pfUSuaR_pKwGTWkUJp9_RfAPPqsekCzHDxmKI1IUI2smaZj3MG_rghW77CIQOrp8Uf7uls2X2r/s400/IMG_2164.jpg" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">My poor photographic attempt to capture the scale of the Atlas Mountains</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiImBrZlZRiwtTxU1SFzDnlFvv1Fl18cictThRFuFb_HhJCb9SSh6jteHxlwWx3PVInC8rggNmYj1UqJt1613pHnBsYQRhF5gILHn69vh2AmDLx-3Yyopm8m3JFQ_6QGLRQ1GoXFQbgWHXz/s1600/IMG_2151.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiImBrZlZRiwtTxU1SFzDnlFvv1Fl18cictThRFuFb_HhJCb9SSh6jteHxlwWx3PVInC8rggNmYj1UqJt1613pHnBsYQRhF5gILHn69vh2AmDLx-3Yyopm8m3JFQ_6QGLRQ1GoXFQbgWHXz/s320/IMG_2151.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">Finally, a Lamb and Prune Tajine, which I had several of, and really like. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">A Moroccan speciality</span></td></tr>
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Mr Iveshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14965084993191032538noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8000191682087974772.post-6732915238698976002016-03-15T07:46:00.003+00:002016-03-15T07:46:29.019+00:00Replacing the timer in a Dualit toaster<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I have had a 4 slot Dualit toaster for the last 15 or so years, and it has worked well. I replaced one of the heating elements some time ago, covered in another post. The timer switch had recently become unreliable, sometimes when you turn it, the red "on" light didn't engage and the elements didn't come on.<br /><br />I ordered a new timer from Dualit, which was not cheap , £27 from Dualit via their website, but I like the toaster and don't like throwing items away when a small part fails. The spare duly arrived and this is the fairly easy replacement procedure.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><b>NOTE : TOASTERS USE MAINS ELECTRICITY. ONLY ATTEMPT THIS IF YOU ARE COMPETENT WITH ELECTRICAL REPAIRS. ALWAYS ENSURE THE ITEM IS FULLY DISCONNECTED AT THE WALL FROM THE MAINS SUPPLY BEFORE UNDERTAKING ANY OF THE FOLLOWING</b></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7urRKQmiymixosndHa8n8DT3UtbQXqutt5rqZiS-gTSsITud9xjbEZOFnyu-5by_ZyKQ8mqfXAHxGCdEQ8T9WpnTZy-nxqGaNdThyAcOw6OlETxU_It4dexESzBtwaVyMo7TTLXQpSBGJ/s1600/IMG_2108.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7urRKQmiymixosndHa8n8DT3UtbQXqutt5rqZiS-gTSsITud9xjbEZOFnyu-5by_ZyKQ8mqfXAHxGCdEQ8T9WpnTZy-nxqGaNdThyAcOw6OlETxU_It4dexESzBtwaVyMo7TTLXQpSBGJ/s400/IMG_2108.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">To gain access to the timer you need to remove the crumb tray and flip the toaster on its top. I use a plastic tray to sit the toaster in, collecting any screws and bread crumbs that fall out. There are 6 screws which old the base on, four of which are also holding rubber feet in place.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3FK53qChBCttjhFugXGQMXr8ieqSVI4gXn71GAeNA6CZvoLUlBRYJ-XGcXNeBHce3W_FIzSaU1Nh7BmRasOmwcpSoie_P1XN3xm6KSwetl_Mcb1GkJNXJIwjrT3PKVfILaMDXYg1-Vber/s1600/IMG_2110.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3FK53qChBCttjhFugXGQMXr8ieqSVI4gXn71GAeNA6CZvoLUlBRYJ-XGcXNeBHce3W_FIzSaU1Nh7BmRasOmwcpSoie_P1XN3xm6KSwetl_Mcb1GkJNXJIwjrT3PKVfILaMDXYg1-Vber/s400/IMG_2110.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Once you have the base off you then need to gently prize off the timer knob. I gently used a scraper as a lever. gentle steady pressure, ensuring I didn't scratch the surface of the toaster. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFrkIFmvzFA9laqUlRO2yeOkUeI61C8tI7BDZwEd0Blv750WcZnsgpa5aCqphQTMLbRASF-LouxGa5fLXPz4eJz4xt8uGG7zbk35Xirj-YrDzqi88V90NmJWrFljANx0Lou_iQ0uyg_Wbt/s1600/IMG_2113.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFrkIFmvzFA9laqUlRO2yeOkUeI61C8tI7BDZwEd0Blv750WcZnsgpa5aCqphQTMLbRASF-LouxGa5fLXPz4eJz4xt8uGG7zbk35Xirj-YrDzqi88V90NmJWrFljANx0Lou_iQ0uyg_Wbt/s400/IMG_2113.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Here you can see the timer switch with knob removed. two screws hold the switch in place.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVr6PHCWudt9yDU1DnZqlZTj66kBId5v8Yhk2dfTufJpap_JAhh474F8Vln45LN8JlDbgvqdewCirlUnLMs7kGuwyGy522jO37pTSrnz1BqKEhTq4uF7l27vucV23LE0lH_Bs5k7RAswSI/s1600/IMG_2114.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVr6PHCWudt9yDU1DnZqlZTj66kBId5v8Yhk2dfTufJpap_JAhh474F8Vln45LN8JlDbgvqdewCirlUnLMs7kGuwyGy522jO37pTSrnz1BqKEhTq4uF7l27vucV23LE0lH_Bs5k7RAswSI/s400/IMG_2114.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">here is the exposed switch from beneath. The timer is basically a switch in series with the mains switch on the front. It takes the Live and Neutral wires from the mains lead and also the wires to the heating elements via the 2 or 4 selector illuminated switch</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5fDQy946mkcOUVc0TSBVYBLNoNXUo_rgYH3Q8JiBVHQqDXiW6C6rhUm3Pp5TymeqhV4drxlSRKTFdqSebeATzUhUbW8v4ZcfcfQ8eQr8t9NZKcjpDGN3ZUcb96C6-7SN5r4GmjAYZ6LVf/s1600/IMG_2111.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5fDQy946mkcOUVc0TSBVYBLNoNXUo_rgYH3Q8JiBVHQqDXiW6C6rhUm3Pp5TymeqhV4drxlSRKTFdqSebeATzUhUbW8v4ZcfcfQ8eQr8t9NZKcjpDGN3ZUcb96C6-7SN5r4GmjAYZ6LVf/s400/IMG_2111.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">having removed the two front screws I could gently pull the switch out, and photograph the wiring, always useful as a point of reference</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">now the replacement timer switch is different in shape and layout to the original. New on the left, original on the right , plus a new knob which came with the replacement .</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz6Sz-jm3HZqHQTru7TEB7UU3ViinDxprLySOcjgx4N9V8XpHwYmJkcfhcJrJq3UJfZzsnIbnlbL6kAzglZo1I_2GgQ0N8QzdsQSs-C0p8Z0NY-tF16MFMS7BO814VoU1OcCP9Fl8ug3gE/s1600/IMG_2121.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz6Sz-jm3HZqHQTru7TEB7UU3ViinDxprLySOcjgx4N9V8XpHwYmJkcfhcJrJq3UJfZzsnIbnlbL6kAzglZo1I_2GgQ0N8QzdsQSs-C0p8Z0NY-tF16MFMS7BO814VoU1OcCP9Fl8ug3gE/s400/IMG_2121.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">the new part came with instructions regarding the wire plug positions</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqqklwqhISrcv0-2eHsVnlq7ENn9ogDC6D0xx8gR5llepBbAxkkI_TgM9p9j9GgPyeemQw7ra3W5WsGdK-LCGccG4PMYe6i1Ouy9oRpFJ7Oij7K07TXBRpwps0YNifM2Bz1UT1Nu0eaDlB/s1600/IMG_2122.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqqklwqhISrcv0-2eHsVnlq7ENn9ogDC6D0xx8gR5llepBbAxkkI_TgM9p9j9GgPyeemQw7ra3W5WsGdK-LCGccG4PMYe6i1Ouy9oRpFJ7Oij7K07TXBRpwps0YNifM2Bz1UT1Nu0eaDlB/s400/IMG_2122.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I followed the instructions , with the mains and neutral at one end and the remaining wires on the original piggyback adapters at the other, using the colours on the instructions to decide which side.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkdujSN2NAsXNk1hCIvAq5ZWbnp5qgpD8uZ9gzI-KiTZwAHEtxs3SuN3H5w1npTHzAakiili8iL2C3svb8ks6t63qLh-MspctBQx6EMeYENz7yzKqQajomKvChrKU37JSqIUAKE1htk4Z_/s1600/IMG_2123.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkdujSN2NAsXNk1hCIvAq5ZWbnp5qgpD8uZ9gzI-KiTZwAHEtxs3SuN3H5w1npTHzAakiili8iL2C3svb8ks6t63qLh-MspctBQx6EMeYENz7yzKqQajomKvChrKU37JSqIUAKE1htk4Z_/s400/IMG_2123.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">In order that the knob is aligned correctly when push fitted on the switch is orientated inside with the solid rectangular block with no wiring tabs facing downward. then when you put the knob on the front (push fit) the zero/off position aligns upward with the black marker. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Check all wires are secure, screw timer in place with the two front screws and refit the bottom plate with its 6 screws/4 feet.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaFTde0_n2FK6POOME2ek240p6Cf8t6RjQF6bD8SAIzlS88cupbl5dvg5I7xzbFyQb3lBefFrCz7-FGKkAnF8JMUSMXBPzv_Fwk9523BRnpaIYQRYR2Cx7nBzKuOj21G-udDsZfdApJ6Nu/s1600/IMG_2124.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaFTde0_n2FK6POOME2ek240p6Cf8t6RjQF6bD8SAIzlS88cupbl5dvg5I7xzbFyQb3lBefFrCz7-FGKkAnF8JMUSMXBPzv_Fwk9523BRnpaIYQRYR2Cx7nBzKuOj21G-udDsZfdApJ6Nu/s400/IMG_2124.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Once back together , I did a test, turning on at the wall selecting both 2 and 4 slots, rotating the timer and the toaster came on . Easy fix, the new timer has a smoother action.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">NOTE: Out of interest I dismantled the old timer to see what the problem was. The open contacts were charred , as happens to most mains switches over time. The clockwork timer mechanism was fine, simple wear and tear from 15 years or briefly arcing as the gap opened/closed. I was right to replace with a new good switch</span></div>
<br />Mr Iveshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14965084993191032538noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8000191682087974772.post-768545493925185992016-03-01T14:57:00.000+00:002016-03-01T14:57:07.312+00:00LED light bulbs are now good enough<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">A number of my posts here regard my battle to replace GU10 and MR16 Halolgen bulbs with LED equivalents, via a short period of CFL bulbs. This has been successful, with all the 40 halogens having been replaced with LED some 5 years ago. My energy consumption has gone down and so has the amount of heat generated into the loft and ceiling space from the bulbs.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Since then I have kept an eye on LED full size light bulbs for ES (Edison Screw) SES (Small Edison Screw and Bayonet fitting bulbs, all of which are represented in my house. Until recently I had found the LED lightbulbs to have dimmer light and a cold blue tint, much as the first Halogen replacements had.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">A few weeks back while in my local B&Q DIY store I saw a display of Philips LED Bulbs, some of which featured clear glass and a kind of internal perspex crown-shaped diffractor.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">I'm pleased to say I have tied both in SES , ES and Bayonet form-factors and they are superior to the Compact Fluorescent Bulbs I was using in 3 ways :</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">1) Instant high quality light, no 5 minute pink warm up period</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">2) Slightly less power consumption than CFL</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">3) No toxic chemicals that have to be recovered from CFL inc. Mercury</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">Cost is between £7-£9 per bulb with both 40w and 60 w equivalents.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">As My CFL bulbs fail, or in some cases before, I intend to replace the CFL's with these LED equivalents </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;"><br /></span>Mr Iveshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14965084993191032538noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8000191682087974772.post-58116538791349053522016-02-13T16:56:00.004+00:002020-09-10T06:40:32.466+01:00The Thorens TD280 MK IV turntable<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFLH9RqewRHCqWK88J4Z2gpghxy_moHArio__RQuWXRgVCrM7z1KqjjVIYzvH6KlMJIgu-BT4bgGx8oy5RPg1sggNh5bOCWXDdfuNEy3Bf3SeIhnR4z4Nmbgm-ese0vbtUtR-Y7WGBLzzV/s1600/IMG_2065.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFLH9RqewRHCqWK88J4Z2gpghxy_moHArio__RQuWXRgVCrM7z1KqjjVIYzvH6KlMJIgu-BT4bgGx8oy5RPg1sggNh5bOCWXDdfuNEy3Bf3SeIhnR4z4Nmbgm-ese0vbtUtR-Y7WGBLzzV/s400/IMG_2065.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">I like to fix up old turntables, especially odd or unloved examples. I've posted blogs on other decks , and back in November I saw a Thorens TD280 on ebay at a very low cost, close to where I live. I prefer to collect, as decks need careful packing.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">In the end I bid and won the deck, a Thorens TD280 MK IV. I am very familiar with the Thorens brand, my father had a classic TD150 MkII followed by a TD 160 - both classics from the Golden era of the 70's.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">I read that the deck was a late model, and while not a classic Thorens, was widely liked by people who had owned one. the TD280 is from the mid 80's when CD had started to put a lot of turntable manufacturers out of business, and like the Ariston Q-deck, was a bit of a final gasp from a declining industry. I got the auction for £64 as the external power supply had been lost, but I was sure I could source a new one.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">A bit of research indicated the external power supply is 16v AC, and I happened to know this is the same as is used by some older Scalextric slot car and Hornby model Train sets. Back to ebay, I found a <span style="background-color: white; line-height: 17px;">Hornby G8025W AC Adapter 16V</span><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 17px;"> for £5 and ordered it. I will confirm here and now that this adapter works fine, the plug fits the deck, and I'm still using it now.</span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 17px;">While I was waiting for the power supply to arrive I had to have a look inside :)</span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white; line-height: 17px;">Unlike almost all other Thorens decks, the TD280 does not have a floating sub-chassis , a device Thorens are famous for. This is where the platter and arm are connected to a plate inside the box or plinth of the deck. This plate is suspended from springs. These springs isolate the replay of the records from external vibration , from within the room and from the motor.</span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; line-height: 17px;">The TD280 has a simple MDF plinth, box section. In the picture you can see the main components. On the base of the plinth was a hardboard base-board with 4 sprung rubber feet to provide some isolation. The base board is held on by screws. I removed the platter, mat, sub-chassis and fixed the arm in its cradle then flipped the deck on its lid laying on a soft carpet</span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9HPfsKfyEAfriJ5A_G9KG5G-Yh152F2U2Cw0TXP7zo-JkM0mRepBP1QkriuO2jyU2Opehzbh3po0olEkpyv__E014GGN8AHWPTs4Dp04Tq-ev5dKwZu_hREJZt7kobVS0tgfTryTsRiUl/s1600/photo+1%2525282%252529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9HPfsKfyEAfriJ5A_G9KG5G-Yh152F2U2Cw0TXP7zo-JkM0mRepBP1QkriuO2jyU2Opehzbh3po0olEkpyv__E014GGN8AHWPTs4Dp04Tq-ev5dKwZu_hREJZt7kobVS0tgfTryTsRiUl/s400/photo+1%2525282%252529.JPG" width="298" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">Inside the TD280 MK IV</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">You can see where the power supply connects top left in the picture. The motor is a low voltage AC motor which has a bright yellow sticker. Then as we move from left to right you can see a complex circuit board. This takes the AC supply from the external power supply and re-synthesises an AC supply which it drives the motor with. the motor is connected to the board via a connector, and includes a feedback circuit so that the motors speed is continually being adjusted to a precise 33 1/3 or 45 rpm, selectable from the front switches.<br /><br />Between the motor and circuit, and a little lower you can see the underside of the main bearing bush. Further down on the left are the interconnect wires which attach to the arm wiring, then we have the underside of the arm bearing and the auto-raise mechanism which wires back to the circuit board. A mechanical linkage links the arm lowering mechanism to the front switch.<br /><br />very simple and tidy internally, the main innovation being the power supply circuit.</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_xJ_9WyzVsJ8RAKVky0FfSLwkbZNU6wuOiVun6ntoApWJDf3Jhw_HDgNr6BvBNlrPIOWw7fNyXBA7AV2k_fx-1NjmmkmjZLSnS27vv5Xy-3c-jj40IGqvHskIwaJhaHfIvxfwZIS8C05k/s1600/photo+3%2525281%252529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_xJ_9WyzVsJ8RAKVky0FfSLwkbZNU6wuOiVun6ntoApWJDf3Jhw_HDgNr6BvBNlrPIOWw7fNyXBA7AV2k_fx-1NjmmkmjZLSnS27vv5Xy-3c-jj40IGqvHskIwaJhaHfIvxfwZIS8C05k/s400/photo+3%2525281%252529.JPG" width="298" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">TP35 tonearm</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><br />The turntable features a tonearm, and being the MK IV variant (there were 3 previous versions with different arms), it comes with the Thorens TP35 arm. This features adjustable tracking weight at the rear, with ant-skate implemented with a common weight and fishing line method. Unusual though is that the arm has a lateral balance adjustment via a small dial close to the rear counter weight. This is less common. the deck came with an Ortofon OM series cartridge</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXtVAI77dLzU9m6Wm2MQcLdO6PgUpbtGQMnvUtW0TSCAjXu9R5BlupjFD0X3hKMHMwWHwIfHFyynoSH7t40pxCMbbet6rRW8ix3ZXzxSanZ2cBryh2ErxmYmSoRky_RYxteY5G7sOvx-x_/s1600/photo+2%2525284%252529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXtVAI77dLzU9m6Wm2MQcLdO6PgUpbtGQMnvUtW0TSCAjXu9R5BlupjFD0X3hKMHMwWHwIfHFyynoSH7t40pxCMbbet6rRW8ix3ZXzxSanZ2cBryh2ErxmYmSoRky_RYxteY5G7sOvx-x_/s400/photo+2%2525284%252529.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">Motor pulley, mount and bearing well</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">With the main and sub-platters removed you can see the bearing well. This was a surprise to me as the service guide for this deck states the MK IV has an inverted bearing, where the platter sits on top of a ball bearing on a column. However this example has a more conventional rounded machined spindle which sits in a brass sleeve with a plastic thrust plate at the bottom.<br /><br />I have since seen or contacted 2 other owners and there examples are like mine. Possibly the inverted bearing in the MK IV service manual was never used ? It is why, I believe, that the Mk IV is the only Thorens deck where they recommend grease as opposed oil for the main bearing. Grease is used for inverted bearings to prevent it from dripping out as oil would.<br /><br />the motor is coupled to the plinth by a plate with 3 screws. This is different to most decks I have worked on where the motor is decoupled using rubber bands or mounts to isolate motor noise. Thorens must have been confident that this motor was vibration free !</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">sub-platter with integral spindle, and drive belt in place</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">Issues and fixes </span></h2>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>Noisy motor</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">OK - so the power supply arrived, and I plugged it in. Operating the deck, the motor was buzzing though the deck appeared to operate fine and kept reasonable speed using a printed strobe disc. However the buzzing from the motor was detectable in the plinth through my finger tips - this wasn't so good. Errant vibration is not good for optimal sound quality.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">I disconnected the deck, removed the platter and sub-platter and then removed the screws holding the motor in place. I then removed the base board and the wires from the motor to the circuit board. These all use push connectors, so removing the motor is very easy.<br /><br />taking the motor out and rotating the pulley it seemed a bit stiff. I squirted some Servisol 10 contact cleaner into the upper and lower bearing on the motor to try and clean any corrosion or dirt. Quite possibly the deck had been unused for some time. It seemed to ease up, and so I worked the pulley round with my fingers, and then left the motor over night for the Servisol to work, then more rotation. Finally using a precision oiler I placed a single drop of oil on the motors upper and lower bearing. The movement seemed much easier.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">I put the motor back in the deck, refitting the plate and screws and plugged it in. This time the motor ran silently and has been silent ever since. No noise vibration, even with my ear really close I can hear nothing as it turns. I was very pleased.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">One odd aspect of this deck was the VTA (Vertical Tracking Angle). VTA is the slope of the arm , or rather the arm should be parallel with the record surface when playing in order to present the stylus at the correct angle. on this deck the arm sloped downward quite severely with no adjustment at the arm base as exists on some decks. My good friends over at the vinyl engine forum explained that the deck came with spacers that go between the cartridge and the headshell to raise the cartridge end relative to the arm pillar when playing.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">I didn't have any spacers but decided to stack a couple of mats to raise the level of the playing surface. I had a spare heavy rubber mat from an Ariston Q-deck, and a cork mat I'd used. placing these on the platter and the original Thorens mat on top raised the playing surface such that the arm was level in play</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVA2guHOUXGg7g_Iup3zOF_rzrWNUxbH3ye7HXEwjH5NPGISVxsPChRZqyG3-9hKxVc5i8aidZsSaYeXfPj3zjLM0uRu4YD4JPF6s3yx_qDqZqO3obioPPYdf_fmd4K6R4lCbrYTKwSuAF/s1600/IMG_2089.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVA2guHOUXGg7g_Iup3zOF_rzrWNUxbH3ye7HXEwjH5NPGISVxsPChRZqyG3-9hKxVc5i8aidZsSaYeXfPj3zjLM0uRu4YD4JPF6s3yx_qDqZqO3obioPPYdf_fmd4K6R4lCbrYTKwSuAF/s400/IMG_2089.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">Here you can see the extra thick triple mat - rubber, cork and rubber</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ-9nj81yinzwf_Jgh_HmMpRRM-Qaq0Kv4LHdycGtnnXoOhkstUWZB_0HrC1LFXxdT98OoO-2rAAIAkIr4hFz-ZAzDOB04wHwMgFBJxMf-XRF8BKUva-SXQhSPbz0ee5VazNNh2tHkMFss/s1600/IMG_2091.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ-9nj81yinzwf_Jgh_HmMpRRM-Qaq0Kv4LHdycGtnnXoOhkstUWZB_0HrC1LFXxdT98OoO-2rAAIAkIr4hFz-ZAzDOB04wHwMgFBJxMf-XRF8BKUva-SXQhSPbz0ee5VazNNh2tHkMFss/s400/IMG_2091.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">Even with a deep cartridge like the Denon DL110, I still needed the extra mats</span></td></tr>
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<i><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Vibration</span></i></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">I noticed that while the motor caused no detectable vibration in the deck, acoustic feedback in the room from the speakers was detectable via my finger tips in the original light weight baseboard. It may not have been an issue, but I experimented with an 18mm plywood based board, which I had cut to size by a very reasonable supplier on ebay sheetmaterialscut_essex. I sat the plywood base on some 40mm sorbothane domes I previously had used on another project. It was quite hard to use the original screw holes, so in the end I fixed the deck to the base board using 4 pea-sized pieces of blutak, arranged around the underside internal lip. After some thought I placed the peas at the centre of each side, so the plinth sits on the base at 4 points between the 4 feet, not directly above them. My thinking was that attaching at the centre of each side would dampen any resonance in the 2 front and back and 2 side pieces of MDF at their most resonant point.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">There is much less vibration detectable during loud passages of music</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">I could have used the original feet, but I decided tho leave the original base board as is , I can go back if I want it original</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0WzvGm4q-U6OC76o_sdCFNStvQJoZbLhLre-mxxTqf5SW5-TeWjBwYqOjpvMmUbUM75RaTZdXbC_-YNoCseV5jGEAVcd2mirAwR5TKVcb0XALAldkzLq_RZfTcbUSQqIag8RJNcL6xiZ5/s1600/IMG_2090.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0WzvGm4q-U6OC76o_sdCFNStvQJoZbLhLre-mxxTqf5SW5-TeWjBwYqOjpvMmUbUM75RaTZdXbC_-YNoCseV5jGEAVcd2mirAwR5TKVcb0XALAldkzLq_RZfTcbUSQqIag8RJNcL6xiZ5/s400/IMG_2090.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">I really like this deck. Its not a classic Thorens and there is very little information about it , even on the excellent www.theanalogdept.com, home of all things Thorens . However now properly setup with my Denon DL110 cartridge it sounds very good to me. I cleaned and re-oiled the main bearing, set the tracking weight, anti-skate AND the lateral balance, as described in the service manual which can be found here </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><a href="http://www.vinylengine.com/library/thorens/td280.shtml">http://www.vinylengine.com/library/thorens/td280.shtml</a></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The speed stability is exceptional. It does sometimes not engage its auto-raise at the end of the side, but I can live with that. Otherwise it presents music in a very appealing way.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">if you get the chance to get a working example, especially discounted because of a lost power supply, I'd say its a great deck<br /><br /><i>Coda</i></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Well despite having other decks lined up to be used, I'm still using this TD280, it just works. A very kind seller of one shared these pictures of the alternative MK IV with the inverted bearing, and I include these for completeness. It appears that a black motor pulley, printed serial number means an inverted bearing, while a brass pulley wheel and hand-written serial number means conventional bearing. Any former Thorens employee's care to comment ?</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHMYYMLgRoNAEcg91xJugs63PmzqQL5ErrZJZsYfo7G6U8lOPWJ-hDg098qk2YdFhUjdU8sxhSh3yOO0Ifr_y_l4E2fDykKxDAiYKv-E7xK74ti5aidhGdnHDYDZ0EyKwIL3TK7B1yVvDI/s1600/TD280invertedbearing1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHMYYMLgRoNAEcg91xJugs63PmzqQL5ErrZJZsYfo7G6U8lOPWJ-hDg098qk2YdFhUjdU8sxhSh3yOO0Ifr_y_l4E2fDykKxDAiYKv-E7xK74ti5aidhGdnHDYDZ0EyKwIL3TK7B1yVvDI/s400/TD280invertedbearing1.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnltesj3fEupyfQRgMrrkp6c0NBWCL9_r6wtFKmnxGvCA2uS9C7Kxm7j9dvZdniMdrmCoU2j7MxzEnSwUF7hpnfl53Q6riRuElKBKhOo037qOHeh2qDX5ffVytKix14jt7NNgW2rmT4UnJ/s1600/TD280invertedbearing2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnltesj3fEupyfQRgMrrkp6c0NBWCL9_r6wtFKmnxGvCA2uS9C7Kxm7j9dvZdniMdrmCoU2j7MxzEnSwUF7hpnfl53Q6riRuElKBKhOo037qOHeh2qDX5ffVytKix14jt7NNgW2rmT4UnJ/s400/TD280invertedbearing2.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Mr Iveshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14965084993191032538noreply@blogger.com24tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8000191682087974772.post-74764976399290190852015-05-12T10:19:00.001+01:002020-09-10T06:41:07.957+01:00Fixing a noisy motor in a NAD 5120 turntableI was recently given a NAD 5120 by my good pal Stephen Ansell from <a href="https://www.hifihangar.co.uk/">HiFi Hangar</a>.
The Deck was in very good condition, but had a noisy motor
I've stripped and serviced a few of these decks as described in my other NAD blog, b ut this time I decided to make a video of stripping the deck and giving the motor a quick service<div><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/AExpBiiYEfk" width="560"></iframe></div>Mr Iveshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14965084993191032538noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8000191682087974772.post-62605237949475981082014-06-28T09:26:00.001+01:002014-06-28T09:26:44.244+01:00My Dyson DC14 stopped workingWell a few weeks ago my Dyson DC14 stopped . The motor stopped working and there was a bit of a burning smell.<br />
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I left it for a while, thinking it might be a cut out due to overheating and would restart, but after a day, it was still dead.<br />
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I've had this Dyson for over 10 years and its been pretty good, have repaired a few things and replaced the odd part, but its still in good shape.<br />
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I sort of assumed that if the motor had failed this was akin to the engine in a car and likely to be expensive to repair, so was pondering getting a new cleaner. However looking on ebay I found that replacement motors were about £16, so not much at all.<br />
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So I got one, and also figure I needed a new filter for the motor. this is the purple and white filter unit which fits below the dirt container, and is accessed via a hatch. The old filter was black with what I assume was fine carbon dust, perhaps from the motor brushes ?<br /><br />Before I started I watched this video on YouTube, which is excellent and clearly shows the complete strip down sequence to get to the motor. I did take a few pictures, but I'm not a great photographer and this clip is far better.<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/xMQ2dClUVzA?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
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The only additional things I did were :<br />
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1) While the clutch mechanism was out I sprayed the belts with Platanclene Print Roller restorer. I've used this a number of times to restore old or hardened rubber. I simply sprayed the platenclene on the two belts still attached to the clutch, and fed each belt through a rag to wipe off any excess and dirt. Both belts left black marks on the rag so I assume this worked<br />
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2) I also wiped each rubber coupling seal with a damp cloth and then with a bit of platanclene. The idea was to make them a bit more supple and hence provide a better seal<br />
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3) I stripped and cleaned thoroughly the entire cyclone chamber as a fair amount of dirt had accumulated in here and I figured it compromised the suction.<br />
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4) I wiped the lower filter chamber with a damp cloth to remove the soot or carbon from it. <br />
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5) I installed a new lower filter and also replaced the yellow and blue sponge upper filter at the same time.<br />
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As per the video I reversed the procedure to reassemble the Dyson and all is fine. The new motor was not a Dyson Branded part, but did appear to have the same manufacturers name (YDK) as the one I removed.<br />
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The Dyson now works well, and seems to be collecting more dust, judging by how full it was after a house wide vacuum. Its a bit quieter too I think, but this is hard to judge. Anyway, it was a good deal cheaper than buying a new one.<br />
Mr Iveshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14965084993191032538noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8000191682087974772.post-8222536985088228022014-03-29T09:01:00.000+00:002020-01-04T17:52:13.948+00:00NAD 5120 or Tesla NC470<h2 style="text-align: justify;">
Introduction</h2>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGpfW-HE3TVK-PyqLFJ0sHneP3uoM6oWb56DbNF72L_oXU7rtcfFDfUmmEIwS9Mmp_b0pHMeCgF1fGKajKcXNRjULXj6gZSheqVpzY25c2QGgi2-xBLHSTs0rG9hFmWkZ16Nu6lFwz-mua/s1600/IMG_1069.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGpfW-HE3TVK-PyqLFJ0sHneP3uoM6oWb56DbNF72L_oXU7rtcfFDfUmmEIwS9Mmp_b0pHMeCgF1fGKajKcXNRjULXj6gZSheqVpzY25c2QGgi2-xBLHSTs0rG9hFmWkZ16Nu6lFwz-mua/s1600/IMG_1069.JPG" width="400" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc3X5ooIn-LJlUEzOWWlXInNDIw5707FUQZE-BgDThLc-y0-NTWrD91VHoaBuHnh1PDGHFCtkHloBl5lTLoCnmihDPzrzmdFO2jDucOyah3M0oIAkb81WBm3q4J5FtAsBK5Q6S5nkhfKQX/s1600/IMG_1071.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc3X5ooIn-LJlUEzOWWlXInNDIw5707FUQZE-BgDThLc-y0-NTWrD91VHoaBuHnh1PDGHFCtkHloBl5lTLoCnmihDPzrzmdFO2jDucOyah3M0oIAkb81WBm3q4J5FtAsBK5Q6S5nkhfKQX/s1600/IMG_1071.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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I got back into vinyl records via my son, who started to collect LPs and i decided he should get a turntable as a surprise Christmas present back in 2011. I was an avid audiophile in the late 70s and my father had a great system,including a Thorens deck. With the arrival of CD, I whole heartedly embraced that format and hadn't owned a deck since around 1981. I decided that a decent but cheap second-hand deck would be ideal for my son, it wasnt a main present, more a novelty to see if he liked the format, so i didnt want to get a more expensive Thorens or Rega, brands i remembered from my past. Why my son had started buying vinyl without a deck I'm not sure, I think he liked the aesthetic and tactile element of LPs, which i completely understand.</div>
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Looking on ebay, many of the decks i remembered were going for high prices second hand, and in the end i bid for and won a humble NAD 5120 . I looked for decks close to where i lived as i reasoned that without the original packing, delicate turntables wouldn't travel well. The price was good, around £20 i recall, and the seller was quite close to me, so i collected it. I had a vague memory of the NAD having some strange flat arm, and looking unlike other decks. I also recalled visiting Brighton around 1980 , and popping into a Hi Fi shop ( when such things were common), which stocked the NAD brand. The salesman was talking to a customer about the new wonder-amp, the NAD 3020, which was getting rave reviews and being coupled with very high end turntables including the Linn Sondek LP12. The salesman, as i recall, lowered his voice and said that NAD were going to bring out a Linn-killer deck for £100, and it was being built "behind the Iron Curtain", hence cheaper production costs, and the customer should delay any purchase til it came out.</div>
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It was a long time ago, but it stuck with me as I remember thinking <i>"good" </i>- Linn were the darlings of the magazines and their dealers were zealots .</div>
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Fast forward to December 2011 and I had a NAD 5120 , purchased secretly as a surprise for my son. I needed to test that it worked. I had an A&R Cambridge A60, which had a dedicated DIN phono input, and a pair of RAM 200 speakers, both of which belonged to my father and I helped choose with him. the speakers were made around 1980 by <a href="http://www.vincejennings.webspace.virginmedia.com/RamElectronics/" target="_blank">RAM</a>, a long gone but fondly remembered British speaker manufacturer from Norfolk</div>
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The deck came with an unidentifiable cartridge so i ordered a budget Audio Technica AT95 on-line.</div>
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I'd heard the deck play when i collected it and it seemed OK though there was a little hum.</div>
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Its Czech , and its a Tesla !</h2>
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I was immediately struck by how different this deck was in design. Substantially</div>
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plastic, though its substantial plastic, with a very strange flat arm featuring a balance weight on a spring with an oil damping container on the arm; a lid with no end pieces, just high side "cheeks" on the plinth, and a strange platter that seemed to also be a mat. All finished in the NAD dark olive green . This truly was unusual, like a Citroen 2CV is an odd car.</div>
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I did some research on the web, mainly the wonderful vinyl engine web site and its associated <a href="http://www.vinylengine.com/turntable_forum/index.php" target="_blank">forum</a>, which has many friendly and helpful members.</div>
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I discovered that the deck was in fact a Czech design and in fact was simply a NAD re-badged version of a turntable widely sold on mainland Europe as the Tesla NC470, built in the Tesla Litovel factory in what was then Czechoslovakia. The designer was <span style="font-weight: bold;">Jiří Janda</span> , about whom I could find very little, but some of his patents are <a href="http://patent.ipexl.com/inventor/Janda_Jiri_1.html" target="_blank">here</a></div>
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He developed a number of audio products under the noses of the authorities in then Soviet-era Czechoslovakia through Audio clubs where members effectively made amps and equipment as part of the club. It also appeared that many of his ideas went into the deck, built by Tesla, who perhaps were a distant relative of Pro-ject, one of the few remaining turntable manufacturers in Europe. It was intriguing and part of the purpose of this blog was to try and find out some more history of the development of this deck. Perhaps someone out there knew Jiri or worked on the development of this deck, if so I would love to hear from you. I did find out that Jiri died in 1993, a short obituary can be found <a href="http://archiv.neviditelnypes.zpravy.cz/hudba/0831hud.htm" target="_blank">here</a> , and a few pictures of him exist on the web and he looks a very kind man.</div>
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<a href="http://archiv.neviditelnypes.zpravy.cz/hudba/jpeg/108.janda.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://archiv.neviditelnypes.zpravy.cz/hudba/jpeg/108.janda.jpg" height="314" width="320" /></a></div>
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So i guess that the old saying that, necessity is the mother of invention, was true with this deck. I have come to appreciate just how clever the design of this deck is, and I guess that , where a material,technology or method was unavailable , a clever alternative was figured out. That flat arm, with its anti-resonance balance weight being a case in point.</div>
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I also discovered that while NAD actively promoted the deck as having a floppy arm, they later appeared to loose faith and reverted to a more conventional round arm for the deck.</div>
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( <i>Actually the arm is not floppy, its made of a ruler shaped piece of circuit board, and while it can be flexed , this is not normal, indeed the adverts NAD had showed it being bent over. do not do this as it will do no good to the copper tracks along the flat arm</i>).</div>
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So you can see examples on ebay with both a flat arm and a round tubular arm. You can even swap arms as the arm simply plugs into a 4 hole socket which also forms the vertical bearing. Over time I have had a number of these decks pass through my hands in addition to the original flat arm example, as i have acquired spares and repairs decks to try and get them working. </div>
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Variations on a theme</h2>
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I'm not sure what the start and end dates of the production of these decks was, I'd guess from the early 80's to maybe the late 80's. <br /><br />Versions i have encountered are :</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMoXMcz0UTcyroiYgnV8TB0yFrl1_CSjpbr5fxG8-VYqw2AOcFEZph5jsalwwXt4O0hIKiUk7owBG-_3e-aljYjq9kRvPrtNKzgdGvTGWyPhwjf8bCxWhXqCyx0nPRdFQxkWsnpuLqqGCK/s1600/IMG_0492.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMEjbhnjgAYfwUJcAGHNefRDJyvpjNSGla76Vtxq9TaxbxpaFj_KXrMcYOiACsgnXr37kgQpTWSmqJDJ_xIiIjZwPisGSpkjX2oKmFEvW_9uTGvZsw6oOTtK9Tp8bwTVvfoZb5JzG4ga5U/s1600/IMG_0471.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a>
<li>Original flat arm model with orange bulb at front. Inside a DIN socket plug is used as a solder junction between the fine wires from the arm bearing to the signal cables. Sub chassis can be levelled using plastic washers as shims above the primary suspension springs and their rubber bushes.<br /></li>
<li style="text-align: left;">As 1. But with a round tubular plastic arm <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMoXMcz0UTcyroiYgnV8TB0yFrl1_CSjpbr5fxG8-VYqw2AOcFEZph5jsalwwXt4O0hIKiUk7owBG-_3e-aljYjq9kRvPrtNKzgdGvTGWyPhwjf8bCxWhXqCyx0nPRdFQxkWsnpuLqqGCK/s1600/IMG_0492.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMoXMcz0UTcyroiYgnV8TB0yFrl1_CSjpbr5fxG8-VYqw2AOcFEZph5jsalwwXt4O0hIKiUk7owBG-_3e-aljYjq9kRvPrtNKzgdGvTGWyPhwjf8bCxWhXqCyx0nPRdFQxkWsnpuLqqGCK/s1600/IMG_0492.JPG" width="320" /></a></li>
<li style="text-align: left;">As 2. But the orange light bulb at the front is replaced with a Red LED and one less wire is needed to provide power to the front light.<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDdS-7SSFqc9UKICr9gLKTgj8TWH8R8WTUnfHZRtRAga8ul_UlfOzU4n9mmNtgd1RRnpGJfKG0EMOpNL3XmRucj3peTi1EWubOmBAOTkUfuUq0gb_csDvj3ocfV6wmwAmGZUtzlVbbhvL4/s1600/IMG_0470.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDdS-7SSFqc9UKICr9gLKTgj8TWH8R8WTUnfHZRtRAga8ul_UlfOzU4n9mmNtgd1RRnpGJfKG0EMOpNL3XmRucj3peTi1EWubOmBAOTkUfuUq0gb_csDvj3ocfV6wmwAmGZUtzlVbbhvL4/s1600/IMG_0470.JPG" width="320" /></a></li>
<li>As 3. But additions include no longer using a DIN socket as a junction, but has moulded turret tags at rear right of deck. Also suspension springs can be adjusted via screws from below. Improved grounding arrangements in arm pillar reduce hum using a staple shaped metal insert to ground the arm pillar through its horizontal bearing.</li>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMEjbhnjgAYfwUJcAGHNefRDJyvpjNSGla76Vtxq9TaxbxpaFj_KXrMcYOiACsgnXr37kgQpTWSmqJDJ_xIiIjZwPisGSpkjX2oKmFEvW_9uTGvZsw6oOTtK9Tp8bwTVvfoZb5JzG4ga5U/s1600/IMG_0471.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMEjbhnjgAYfwUJcAGHNefRDJyvpjNSGla76Vtxq9TaxbxpaFj_KXrMcYOiACsgnXr37kgQpTWSmqJDJ_xIiIjZwPisGSpkjX2oKmFEvW_9uTGvZsw6oOTtK9Tp8bwTVvfoZb5JzG4ga5U/s1600/IMG_0471.JPG" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6OMwGhM_tuS4A5DEdWvHmK2gYeSZih1qP_KuBGGiay39NUyvTHYQX9ETPJnMrUoFzJKLPNzrTtACFXOb5wbJ5V1eknwH_jBu__lBiqQdn-3snqGL5ZIqInWiarwgO2RE7H7G5oASQeihe/s1600/IMG_0510.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKlJwwyGroqc5b8lMwkV72LxqFm7y4MHspm3vPj27Bdc8KddoMkGOfhugYan001YAHDxq8i1kCcvdBXWVXttT6UzbsPTWoRQXzGwngDWaSdMAbPbo5HeMyVRAuB2k6ZMyzeveinkHtUq_u/s1600/IMG_0511.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div>
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<br />In addition to these , i have found some minor differences in the arm and spindle bearing arrangements. Some examples sit the bearing on a tiny blue metal disc, size a hole-punched chad and housed inside the base of the brass and black plastic bearing sleeve assembly, cleverly common to both arm and spindle . Others used a nylon disk, and others no disk at all. Blue metal disks in both bearings is best for ground continuity.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">beneath the arm bearing (ignore roughly cut bitumen panels, non-standard)<br /></td></tr>
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One example I had had a staple-like metal link inside the arm pillar to improve the grounding from the external arm pillar metal case, via the arm horizontal bearing to the sub-chassis. </div>
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As far as I'm aware the only difference between the NAD and Tesla models was the badge and maybe the colour of the paint used ? not sure if Tesla sold the deck under their brand before NAD got involved or after, I do know that if you attempt to clean the plastic upper chassis of a NAD unit with alcohol, the olive green paint comes off revealing a more metallic grey underneath. I wonder is this was the original Tesla colour, and NAD just resprayed them ?</div>
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There is another variant which was sold as the Lenco L800, which looks to be a flat arm unit except that the upper half of the plinth was made from wood rather than plastic. I've only seen pictures of this, never seen one, but would be tempted to get one.</div>
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<span style="line-height: 1.3em;">Generally the decks hold their value well on eBay, perhaps partly due to the NAD brand, with the tubular arm models occurring more often than the flat arm. In the UK you can get an example for around £40-70 depending on condition. Indeed honest sellers often advertise them as non working due a number of common problems : </span></div>
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<li>Speed selector not working. The selector doesn't cleanly nudge the belt to the correct part of the motor pulley</li>
<li>Automatic function doesn't work. The Deck has a simple auto raise and turn off feature at the end of a side, this seems to work on some decks and not on others. Its nicely done and doesn't appear to interfere with the functioning of the arm either way</li>
<li>Motor randomly turns either way. This is sometimes due to a bad phase capacitor. If the deck always turns the wrong way or has trouble holding speed, it could be a bad motor winding.</li>
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What is inside ?</h2>
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First disconnect from the power, and i mean disconnect at the wall, don't rely on the power switch at the front, as the motor is always partly live.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">base unit (please note this example has additional damping applied , non-standard)<br /></td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFPsd3NLS6Mfc6BJcnbna_pnYbDEv2jJAncuN6uBkbnaqL_vRtAnoN8VJc3mBiHqtbXw7A0EsTJ-GcFaE5L1dSV8nhnta_R6NO6z3Wmnz0JEO8mqoi-alGkVnHby2dPsMXxvpks8KMq1_B/s1600/IMG_1061.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a>So getting back to the run up to Christmas 2011, when i finally fitted the cartridge, aligned it, and tested it in secret, I had music through one channel and loud hum through the other. If this was to be a success , I needed to figure this out.</div>
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Despite the decks largely plastic construction,its well made, the plinth is in two sections , held by 3 Philips screws. I have taken my decks apart in excess of 20 times and not stripped any threads. I would say the plinth is less resonant than other plastic decks from Dual and various cheaper Japanese Direct Drive models. </div>
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So to open the deck up you first remove the lid, which slides out of the two rear hinges. The hinges pull out of their slots. Next you can remove the whole arm, it pulls away from the pillar at the point where it pivots. This requires some care , and if you have a stylus plastic guard or cover, its worth applying that first.</div>
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Next you can remove the mat which is rubber with an inner plastic insert which has one of those 45 adaptors for DJs in the middle. The mat is unusual in that its also substantially the platter. These mats often discolour becoming a snowy grey colour, but washing and cleaning with platanclene rubber restorer will bring them up like new. Beneath the rubber mat-platter is a simple pressed steel sup platter which has an upward facing lip which engages in a trough on the underside of the mat.</div>
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The painted steel sub-platter comes off revealing another sub-platter made of plastic which has the spindle passing through its centre. This looks similar to sub-platters found on Project and Rega decks. Between the two sub-platters sits a humble and unnoticed copper foil washer which helps to provide a ground between the steel plate and the spindle. You notice the paint is removed so the washer makes a good contact.</div>
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The plastic sub platter can be removed , the rubber belt fits around this. Pulling the sub platter out by the spindle reveals the main bearing, which is narrower than the spindle. Many decks these are the e same or larger diameter. As with everything you remove ,these pieces should be placed somewhere safe and ideally soft, as the main bearing should not be scratched or damaged.</div>
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Now you can remove the upper part of the plinth as you should be able to clearly see 3 Philips screws around the circular central recess. Once removed and safely stored,you have the problem of separating the upper half of the plinth from the lower. Gentle steady pressure with the fingers through the circular recess into the base i find works. Gently ease the top plinth away from the base. Eventually it should come free, and again place it somewhere safe. </div>
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At this point you should be looking at the black plastic base with all the wires , levers , springs and metal sub-chassis</div>
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At the back left you have the AC synchronous motor, held in place by two brackets which also act as guides for the speed selector contraption, lets call it a sled, as it slides. AC motors spin at a single speed, and the tiny aluminium spindle connected to the motor sets the platter speed. The belt is guided between two diameters of the pulley when changing speed, rather like the derail-er gears on a bike.</div>
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Centrally you have a metal sub-chassis which sits on 3 large springs via 3 rubber mounts. To the sub-chassis is attached all manner of bits, but the main things are the main bearing housing, that the spindle sits in, and the arm pillar, a fat circular metal tower on the right. It rotates with the arc of the arm, limited by a screw in a slot at its base. The sub-chassis normally 'floats' when the full platter system is present due to the compression of the springs. With the platter etc. Removed the springs force the sub-chassis up, but its limited by a locking wheel located beneath the deck. You can tighten this when shipping the deck to restrict the movement of the sub-chassis, loosen when its in its intended location.</div>
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There are two sets of wires in the deck. Power to the motor which is mains i.e dangerous , and signal wiring from the cartridge which are not dangerous. The mains cable enters at the rear of the deck and snakes around the partitioned wall to the motor, with further wires passing around the front of the deck to the switch at the front. Close to the motor is a silver phase reversing capacitor. Its function is to start the motor right direction as AC motors can turn either direction. A second suppression capacitor is located at the front by the mains switch and light bulb. The deck has no safety earth, but this is not uncommon and does not mean the deck is necessarily any more dangerous than any other household appliance, assuming its not been tampered with or modified. </div>
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The tiny thread-like wires emerge from the base of the arm pillar. These carry the signals from the cartridge via the arm. These wires are extremely delicate, as , by necessity, they are thick enough to carry the signal but thin enough to not impede the movement of the arm. These connect to the main signal wires either using a DIN socket as a junction, (no idea why ? Love to know, maybe for easy testing in the factory ?) or in later models via some solder tags moulded into the deck base. Conventional signal wires take up the audio story and snake around the back of the arm and snake around various partition mouldings in the outer wall of the base moulding.</div>
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A ground continuity wire also emerges at the same point from the deck, its anchored to one of the three screws at the base of the arm pillar. Its role is two fold, to ensure ground continuity from the deck to the preamp to avoid hum loops, and also to ensure electrostatic continuity from the spindle to a static point. Phono sections on amps usually have a binding post to attach this wire to.</div>
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There is a mechanical linkage from the front switch to the arm raiser and various springs and pulleys, some of which provide anti skate from the arm support arm, others provide the hit or miss auto raise function.</div>
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Now lets jump back to my sons deck. its now December and the big day is approaching and this deck is far from working. I have hum only on one channel . I decided that i must have an issue with the arm wiring, and gently tugging the coloured wires emerging from the base of the arm revealed that the blue one was not connected to anything.</div>
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I'm quite a practical person, and have some modest skill at soldering so I'm not too intimidated by these issues. </div>
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I realised that i needed to remove the arm pillar, and its held captive by a bolt in the curved slot at its base. Once this is removed you can carefully slide the whole arm pillar off its bearing. This reveals the same brass and black plastic bearing sleeve as the platter spindle uses. Neat, never seen this approach taken anywhere else. This is fiddly work as the heavy, substantially metal arm pillar is now only captive by 4 cotton thread-like wires, or in my case by only 3.</div>
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The wires solder to the base of the plastic socket the arm plugs into. The socket has two spikes which emerge from either side and sit in two cupped grub screws accessible from the outside of the arm pillar, forming the vertical needle bearings. Loosening the grub screws, only a little and the same amount on each side, eventually lets the socket piece loose of the top of the arm pillar and you can get at the solder tags on the base. However there is very little slack and these wires are hard to work with. I couldn't re-solder the blue wire and ended up making things worse. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6OMwGhM_tuS4A5DEdWvHmK2gYeSZih1qP_KuBGGiay39NUyvTHYQX9ETPJnMrUoFzJKLPNzrTtACFXOb5wbJ5V1eknwH_jBu__lBiqQdn-3snqGL5ZIqInWiarwgO2RE7H7G5oASQeihe/s1600/IMG_0510.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6OMwGhM_tuS4A5DEdWvHmK2gYeSZih1qP_KuBGGiay39NUyvTHYQX9ETPJnMrUoFzJKLPNzrTtACFXOb5wbJ5V1eknwH_jBu__lBiqQdn-3snqGL5ZIqInWiarwgO2RE7H7G5oASQeihe/s1600/IMG_0510.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="line-height: 1.3em;">In the end i decided to run 4 new wires from the socket base to new RCA sockets which id fit to the back of the turntable base. Trouble was which wires to use. In the end i used computer mouse wiring which is very thin but not too hard to work with. This worked but was still a bit stiff for my liking , causing i felt some tracking issues with the arm, so in the end i got some fine Litz wire from eBay especially for arm rewiring, which is finer. This is all very fiddly and i have to say that unless you have a specific issue with the arm wiring , id leave well alone as :</span></div>
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<li>The wires are fine and the soldering is hard. If you overheat the tags on the base of the arm socket you could deform it.</li>
<li>Loosening and tightening the side grub screws for the needle bearings is hard to judge. Too tight and the arm doesn't move freely, to loose and there is arm play. </li>
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The only other thing i have done on some decks is to lubricate the motor bearing. Again i emphasise that these decks carry live voltage, so only attempt this if the deck is disconnected and you are sure you can safely work with such devices.</div>
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<span style="line-height: 1.3em;">On two decks i had noisy motors. The motor is clamped in place but what appears to be a black plastic thrust bearing protrudes from the base of the motor and through a hole in the base of the deck. Several of the decks I've seen have had the black bearing cap mangled. I assume owners have either :</span></div>
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<li>Tried to remove the plastic cap with pliers. Don't , its doesn't come off from the bottom, you have to open the motor to get at it</li>
<li>Forced the motor stator down to try and reduce speed changer noise and unwittingly popped the tiny thrust ball bearing out through a tear in the base.</li>
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The correct way to clean and re-lubricate the motor is to remove the motor from the base, by removing first removing the motor spindle which is held in place by a tiny diagonal grub screw from the top, then remove the speed selector frame and its guides. They are held in place by two screws which pass through tags on the sides of the motor. The wiring from the motor has some opaque silicone sleeves to protect it . </div>
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If you remove the motor, beneath is a small circle of yellow foam rubber which provides some modest decoupling of the motor from the base.mi have tried replacing this with sorbothane rubber and got much more noise, so stick with the original foam, but it might benefit from a wash in warm water And a gentle dry in the sun.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWbetTTKn-z522QWu6jbEYEqNcKpYUSzEJKU26ikgMypihbvpz8QaY0s8y_myKvzG8RbvcGYIaL9boO_irGItBbJqom7AmcgVksObaUhmHNzf8Rc-90DBDbeG5kiKM8zSRt78Xy3lf-3JE/s1600/IMG_0404.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWbetTTKn-z522QWu6jbEYEqNcKpYUSzEJKU26ikgMypihbvpz8QaY0s8y_myKvzG8RbvcGYIaL9boO_irGItBbJqom7AmcgVksObaUhmHNzf8Rc-90DBDbeG5kiKM8zSRt78Xy3lf-3JE/s1600/IMG_0404.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWbetTTKn-z522QWu6jbEYEqNcKpYUSzEJKU26ikgMypihbvpz8QaY0s8y_myKvzG8RbvcGYIaL9boO_irGItBbJqom7AmcgVksObaUhmHNzf8Rc-90DBDbeG5kiKM8zSRt78Xy3lf-3JE/s1600/IMG_0404.JPG" width="400" /></a>Once you have the motor out, still captive by its wiring you can obtain more slack by removing the clip-on black plastic box section which protects the motor wiring. With now adequate slack, if you examine the seam around the edge of the motor there are 3 small slots into which you can get the blade of a screw driver into. By gentle and progressive twisting action you can slowly prise the two clam shell halves apart. The trick is gently and do a small amount of twisting in each slot. Too much in one slot and you'll warp the motor shell. Gently and slowly is the trick. After a while the two parts separate and you can access the central stator, and pull it clear of the two halves.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">sorry for the poor picture !<br /></td></tr>
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The lower spindle engages with a lower thrust bearing. That black plastic thing is a tiny well with a ball bearing inside.. You don't need to remove the plastic piece from the motor, but i found i could twiddle a wooden tooth pick around inside to remove dirt, then soft rag twisted in. Finally a small grain of rice sized blob of silicone grease. The upper bearing is a simple collar bearing and again a little silicone grease is fine, but make sure the rest of the stator is clean. In all the motors I've seen the motor is very clean inside.</div>
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Putting it back together her is a case of reversing the process. The two sides will only go one way with the wires together. Once in position gently squeeze the two halved together with grips, gently and again, a little rotate, a little rotate, a bit more, till the two halves are tight together again. This motor self centres, so you should find it spins freely after this process.<br />
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Much of the above is explained in a video I made of the repair of a noisy NAD motor, including the disassemble of the deck</div>
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Mr Iveshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14965084993191032538noreply@blogger.com77tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8000191682087974772.post-91964382670074595082014-01-30T12:37:00.001+00:002014-02-01T13:22:29.284+00:00Fixing a leaking gutter<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTPxwqEK-FxgSvG-FrqOUNGpswtURLzHHsXuduBW3AgloKGto8edmOZ3A0onWWGJh8aL98pepzjFxoLHTxVHInog2H7TCcavx28Xyfd40n2SYglCAKVTISosxC5ZQFQtOVGGvnN-Ozdz8c/s1600/IMG_1068.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTPxwqEK-FxgSvG-FrqOUNGpswtURLzHHsXuduBW3AgloKGto8edmOZ3A0onWWGJh8aL98pepzjFxoLHTxVHInog2H7TCcavx28Xyfd40n2SYglCAKVTISosxC5ZQFQtOVGGvnN-Ozdz8c/s1600/IMG_1068.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
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In the UK most houses appear to use some form of modular plastic guttering. It comes in different colours and cross sections. Pieces are held up using brackets. Where sections join together a connecting pice is used which clamps beneath the two sections coupling them together, and an outer clip piece binds both pieces together with a rubber seal as the filling in this sandwich. The rubber seal consist of a length of rubber strip which sits in a groove in the juntion piece. In the picture above you can see a corner section, below you see a mid section join between two longer lengths.<br />
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I routinely find persistent drips from these junction points. This is not great as where the water lands you get splashing, which over time can soak the walls close to the splash point. It can also start to damage wooden paint work. if your in a room nearby a persistent drip-drip-drip is also annoying. So dripping gutters are a bad thing. </div>
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I have repaired gutters in 3 houses and a Scout Hut I helped maintain, and have repaired this dripping quite a few times so this blog is my approach.<br />
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First of all if you have a gutter that drips from the seal , 2 things are wrong with your gutter:<br />
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<li>The rubber seal is not working and water is seeping out through a gap.</li>
<li>More fundamentally your guttering may not be installed correctly. This is because water should not accumulate in the gutters. On wet or snowy days when the gutters carry water, yes, but on dry days there should be no standing water in a gutter. Either a blockage exists which can be removed OR more likely the gutters have not been installed with a slope. Its remarkable how many builders appear to believe that water can run up hill !. Gutters should slope gently down toward their downpipes. if sections are collecting standing water there either is no slop, insufficient slope or worse the slope goes the wrong way. Sometimes a long section might sag, and additional supports are needed.<br /><br />Basically gutters should be completely dry in dry weather. That's in a perfect world and our gutters may be inaccessible or high up and fixing point 2). Might be something to keep in mind or get done by competent professionals (ones with a spirit level and some concept of gravity). <br /><br />Now lets deal with 1) the symptom, not the cause.<br /><br /><b>You need to remove the joint section that is leaking. WARNING: This will probably involve working up a ladder, possibly on an upper storey so take great care, and if in doubt , get a professional to do the job. I have sometimes found window cleaners who are comfortable working on ladders at height , to be willing to help to retrieve and replace sections like this.</b><br /><br /><br /><div style="text-align: justify;">
In the case of 1) the rubber outside C clip which binds the pieces together may not be in place or its lip might have snapped off. This is really a case of getting up a ladder and taking a look. Not easy especially if the gutters are high up. Sometimes a squeeze on the outside edge and clip will produce the SNAP sound that the clip is in place.</div>
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Assuming the clip is in place then the problem I have found is because the rubber seal has been compromised, usually by grit. Grit washes off certain roofing tiles and collects in the gutters. Its basically like sand and its too heavy to be washed away and accumulates in the bottom. Perhaps slate roofs don't have this problem.</div>
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When the gutters are dry, on warm or sunny days the black plastic sections expand, sometimes you can hear them creaking. The join sections are designed such that the gutters can expand and slide over the rubber seals during the expansion. Similarly when the sun goes in they contract. It is my belief that the expansion and contraction works the grit into the rubber seal and over time the rubber cannot make a good contact with the gutter plastic surface. The seals have a slit down the middle and this on inspection often seems to have grit in it.<br />
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The fix is to remove the section and seals , and clean them , then get some sponginess back in the rubber which may be deformed from long term compression.</div>
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In the picture above you can see and end capping piece which I have removed from the gutter end . You can see the removed rubber seal and the trench where the seal is seated in the plastic. Its important to remove and dismantle the joint section and wash all the parts to get any grit and dirt out. </div>
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here you can see the slot along the middle of the rubber seal. I run a point along this but something not sharp, maybe the end of a pencil, to clear out any grit . Rinse the rubber sections thoroughly from the end, the cross tube section allows you to run water through it.</div>
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Once the rubber seals are clean and dry you can restore some springiness into the seals with an hour or so in a plastic bag with a few squirts of Platanclene printer roller restorer. Its available from larger office suppliers and on amazon. Costs about £3 for a small aerosol.<br />
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Once you've squirted the plantanclene in the bag - only needs a few squirts, seal the bag and work the liquid into the rubber so it all gets a bit of a coating. I leave for an hour, then remove and wipe with a cloth. The rubber should be spongier and perhaps darker.<br />
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The rest is simply reversing the process i.e put the now clean joint section back together with the restored seal in place. Clip back into the section between gutter sections and ensure that the outer C clip makes a good joint on both sides, typically its a bit hard to snap into place, but does so with a click. if you don't get the click, double check<br />
<br />Mr Iveshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14965084993191032538noreply@blogger.com0