Skip to main content

Trio Kenwood KD-1033 turntable main bearing service

  One of my first posts in this blog was regarding the servicing of the Pioneer PL12D turntable, and that has proven to be the most popular by a significant margin. The Pioneer PL12D had its competitors, and probably the most popular alternative was the Trio Kenwood KD-1033 turntable. I use both names (Trio and Kenwood) as the company operated under different names in different markets. In the UK they were Trio, possibly because the brand Kenwood was most famous here for food blenders. 95% of a KD-1033 is similar to  Pioneer PL12D, and servicing them is very much the same process. Both are belt drive , have an AC synchronous motor,  mechanical speed change , a main bearing, sprung top deck and rubber motor mounts. the KD-1033 uses a different type of anti skate mechanism, employing a thread and weight. The plinth is shallower with an internal cross brace. One aspect that is different is the design of the main bearing, and servicing it is a little harder than a PL12D. The Pioneer main b

Replacing the timer in a Dualit toaster


I have had a 4 slot Dualit toaster for the last 15 or so years, and it has worked well. I replaced one of the heating elements some time ago, covered in another post. The timer switch had recently become unreliable, sometimes when you turn it, the red "on" light didn't engage and the elements didn't come on.

I ordered a new timer from Dualit, which was not cheap , £27 from Dualit via their website, but I like the toaster and don't like throwing items away when a small part fails. The spare duly arrived and this is the fairly easy replacement procedure.

NOTE : TOASTERS USE MAINS ELECTRICITY. ONLY ATTEMPT THIS IF YOU ARE COMPETENT WITH ELECTRICAL REPAIRS.  ALWAYS ENSURE THE ITEM IS FULLY DISCONNECTED AT THE WALL FROM THE MAINS SUPPLY BEFORE UNDERTAKING ANY OF THE FOLLOWING



To gain access to the timer you need to remove the crumb tray and flip the toaster on its top. I use a plastic tray to sit the toaster in, collecting any screws and bread crumbs that fall out. There are 6 screws which old the base on, four of which are also holding rubber feet in place.


Once you have the base off you then need to gently prize off the timer knob. I gently used a scraper as a lever. gentle steady pressure, ensuring I didn't scratch the surface of the toaster. 



Here you can see the timer switch with knob removed.  two screws hold the switch in place.


here is the exposed switch from beneath. The timer is basically a switch in series with the mains switch on the front. It takes the Live and Neutral wires from the mains lead and also the wires to the heating elements via the 2 or 4 selector illuminated switch



having removed the two front screws I could gently pull the switch out, and photograph the wiring, always useful as a point of reference



now the replacement timer switch is different in shape and layout to the original. New on the left, original on the right , plus a new knob which came with the replacement .


the new part came with instructions regarding the wire plug positions


I followed the instructions , with the mains and neutral at one end and the remaining wires on the original piggyback adapters at the other, using the colours on the instructions to decide which side.


In order that the knob is aligned correctly when push fitted on the switch is orientated inside with the solid rectangular block with no wiring tabs facing downward. then when you put the knob on the front (push fit) the zero/off position aligns upward with the black marker. 

Check all wires are secure, screw timer in place with the two front screws and refit the bottom plate with its 6 screws/4 feet.


Once back together , I did a test, turning on at the wall selecting both 2 and 4 slots, rotating the timer and the toaster came on . Easy fix, the new timer has a smoother action.

NOTE: Out of interest I dismantled the old timer to see what the problem was. The open contacts were charred , as happens to most mains switches over time. The clockwork timer mechanism was fine, simple wear and tear from 15 years or briefly arcing as the gap opened/closed. I was right to replace with a new good switch

Comments

Anonymous said…
Thanks so much for the post. My spare timer from Dualit came without a wiring diagram! Couldn't have done it without you. X
Sean said…
Thanks for your very useful step by step guide. Like previous post, no instructions supplied with my timer. Much appreciated.
Unknown said…
Like others... Dualit M2 in the toaster... a M7 sent without wiring instructions (a real PITA).

Thanks for your work.

Paul
Waymad said…
If the only thing wrong with the original timer was contacts, would it be feasible to clean them up and add a small relay or contactor to handle the element current? Did this years ago on an electric instant hot water system, worked a treat...
Ernest said…
Your posting is absolutely essential, I just replaced old dead timer with the model you described. Of course it came without diagram:-) Erm, the new dial knob that came with it, says: "Unplug after use. Firerisk!" I have my dualit toaster plugged in since 25 years. May I ignore this warning? I cleaned the old dial and fitted it. Matches perfectly.
Anonymous said…
September 2019 and it seems that it is still Dualit policy not to provide wiring instructions. I paid over £26 for the M17 switch which was the recommended timer for my toaster model on the Dualit spares website page. When it arrived it looked nothing like the old one and the new one doesn’t even have the live, negative, etc markings that were on the old switch.so you can’t work it out. I am regretting I did not buy the switch from a number of other sites for lower cost as they provide fitting instructions. Not what I expected from Dualit and could lead to accidents. Very shabby customer care from Dualit. Seems like it been going on for years. I hope they make the toasters a bit better. You have been warned
Matt said…
Any ideas on how to get these things to toast more evenly? It seems like they are a touch too hot high up and tend to burn the top of the toast while not browning the bottom...

Cheers,
Matt
Mr Ives said…
Hi Matt, I can't help you there. The heating elements are basically wire wound around a frame. They either work or dont as far as I can see. Losing an element would mean the toast would be completely untoasted on one side. Does your model have the 2 slot/ 4 slot switch and does that make any difference ?
Johannah Rodgers said…
Thank you so much for this excellent post! It is a "toaster saving" one!
Mr Ives said…
My pleasure Johannah Rodgers , glad it was useful

Popular posts from this blog

Restoring a Pioneer PL-12D Turntable

 I got back into vinyl records about 18 months ago, and have collected a few hundred albums, mostly second hand. I have a number of turntables (NAD 5120, Ariston QDeck, Pioneer PL12D ) which I got also second hand. I keep a few, some end up passed onto friends, some that are too far gone are kept for spares. In most cases they have required a little work to get them running again. Last week I was lucky enough to get a Pioneer PL-12D turntable from freecycle. The lady who offered it, said that she in turn had received it from freecycle , and had replaced the belt but couldn't get on with the springiness of it, and had got a modern USB turntable. I have previously worked on one of these decks, and know what she means about the suspension system used. While this blog is specifically about this particular model of deck, many of the concepts are similar to others from this vintage. Many Japanese belt drive decks throughout the  1970's shared very similar construction, so this ma

Bracing IKEA EXPEDIT or KALLAX cabinets for greater rigidity when used with a turntable

The inevitable problem, too many records. Turntable and amplifier on top Like many record collectors around the world, I have a number of IKEA cube cabinets from both their EXPEDIT (older) and KALLAX (newer) ranges. These are easy to make, cheap to buy and perfect for record storage. The system comes flat packed and uses bolts and dowels to hold the system together. If you follow the instructions  the system is strong and should not collapse. You can augment the joints with PVA wood glue for extra strength. My turntable sits on top of an EXPEDIT 2x4 cabinet, laid along the long side, with some felt feet to support it from the floor, and you can use KALLAX in the same way. It's been great but has two problems I wanted to address : 1) Because the system has no back panel, the records  can be pushed too far back. 2) While the structure is strong and fairly rigid, there was some lateral movement. With heavy equipment on top, I found that if I nudged or knocked either top side, this all

a vintage Sonab 85S / Yamaha CP-500 turntable

The Sonab 85S turntable You'll see from this blog that I'm interested in vintage audio equipment , especially turntables and speakers. I keep an eye on ebay for potential bargains, and saw this turntable listed quite close to me and for a very good price, £60 buy it now, including 45 adapter, dust bug, DIN adapter, record clamp and a very nice Shure M95 cartridge. Condition listed as very good and with the original sonab headshell. I've been interested in this deck for sometime, as to my eyes , it's a particularly nice design, with the very simple tonearm and deep chassis. I was aware that the model , from the late 70's was a cooperation between Swedish manufacturer Sonab and Yamaha. I don't know how much was contributed by which firm, but the same deck, or one very similar is also to be found as the Yamaha CP-500, though typically in teak rather than black. There were two Sonab models , the 75 and 85, the former being a manual  deck, the latter an automatic, an