Skip to main content

Trio Kenwood KD-1033 turntable main bearing service

  One of my first posts in this blog was regarding the servicing of the Pioneer PL12D turntable, and that has proven to be the most popular by a significant margin. The Pioneer PL12D had its competitors, and probably the most popular alternative was the Trio Kenwood KD-1033 turntable. I use both names (Trio and Kenwood) as the company operated under different names in different markets. In the UK they were Trio, possibly because the brand Kenwood was most famous here for food blenders. 95% of a KD-1033 is similar to  Pioneer PL12D, and servicing them is very much the same process. Both are belt drive , have an AC synchronous motor,  mechanical speed change , a main bearing, sprung top deck and rubber motor mounts. the KD-1033 uses a different type of anti skate mechanism, employing a thread and weight. The plinth is shallower with an internal cross brace. One aspect that is different is the design of the main bearing, and servicing it is a little harder than a PL12D. The ...

Bracing IKEA EXPEDIT or KALLAX cabinets for greater rigidity when used with a turntable

IKEA EXPEDIT record storage and turntable support
The inevitable problem, too many records.
Turntable and amplifier on top




Like many record collectors around the world, I have a number of IKEA cube cabinets from both their EXPEDIT (older) and KALLAX (newer) ranges. These are easy to make, cheap to buy and perfect for record storage.

The system comes flat packed and uses bolts and dowels to hold the system together. If you follow the instructions  the system is strong and should not collapse. You can augment the joints with PVA wood glue for extra strength.

My turntable sits on top of an EXPEDIT 2x4 cabinet, laid along the long side, with some felt feet to support it from the floor, and you can use KALLAX in the same way. It's been great but has two problems I wanted to address :


1) Because the system has no back panel, the records  can be pushed too far back.


2) While the structure is strong and fairly rigid, there was some lateral movement. With heavy equipment on top, I found that if I nudged or knocked either top side, this allowed a degree of sideways sway in the unit which would cause my turntable to wobble. It's a Thorens deck with a suspended sub chassis, and while immune to most vibration, doesn't like this kind of sudden sideways movement. To be precise the rectangular shape of the  unit can slightly become a parallelogram, if shoved. The unit was put together correctly with the internal bracing shelves the correct way round, and with glue along seams, everything is tight. It's just a consequence of the type of construction system used, and is only an issue if you have a turntable resting on it 


So I'd been thinking about how I could add additional bracing to stiffen the unit. I found some plastic board that had been used for some  roofing soffits, though any hardboard or plywood should work.

My speakers sit on two seperate KALLAX 2x1 units as stands , quite close. I was concerned that if I used a single piece of board to cover the entire back of the EXPEDIT, it might resonate . Hence I decided to apply a central brace spanning both the top section of the lower row and the lower section of the upper row. This braces the unit laterally , stops the records from sliding too far back AND does not create a large "drum skin" on the back of the unit.

I cut the spare piece of plastic board, which is approx 5mm thick, light but rigid laterally. I screwed this to the back along the centerline. I used a fine drill bit to drill pilot holes and short Philips screws to hold it in place. You are drilling into the end pieces of the IKEA unit, which are hollow , so long screws are not necessarily better. Once in place I added additional screws  that went through into the vertical dividers. This was easy to do by eye, but I found I couldnt easily repeat this with the horizontal central shelf, so rather than mess it up I left that. 10 screws in total , 2 at each end and 2 for each of the 3 vertical dividing shelves.
rear bracing to IKEA EXPEDIT
Plastic cross brace, secured at ends and at each vertical. 
bracing screwed to vertical divider shelves as well as ends
closer look at vertical fastening



Once in place this made a big difference to the slight lateral movement, it was much more rigid. Also this prevented the records from sliding too far back. Inspired by this success, and as  I had the unit out and my tools to hand, I also added corner L-shaped brackets at each of the 4 corners.


4 steel corner brackets for extra bracing
4 steel corner brackets for extra bracing

Now there is no detectable lateral movement and my turntable seems far more  solid . I should add that the unit rests on a solid concrete floor, so was only ever susceptible if knocked. Were I to have hollow or suspended floors , the original problem would have been worse, and this solution may be even more useful






Comments

Anonymous said…
This is great and thanks for posting. I'm in a similar situation and didn't want to put a full backing on like others have done in case we want to leave the cubes open in the top row to display photos etc. Here's an easier solution that's hopefully straight fwd to implement....will be picking up supplies tomorrow and going for it. Thanks again.
Anonymous said…
Where did you pick up the plastic bracing and L brackets?
Mr Ives said…
Thanks for stopping by. I got the metal brackets from my nearest hardware/diy store (B&Q in the UK). The plastic sheets were left by builders from some roofing work, but again can be purchased from hardware stores. Plywood or hardboard could work equally as well.

Popular posts from this blog

Restoring a Pioneer PL-12D Turntable

 I got back into vinyl records about 18 months ago, and have collected a few hundred albums, mostly second hand. I have a number of turntables (NAD 5120, Ariston QDeck, Pioneer PL12D ) which I got also second hand. I keep a few, some end up passed onto friends, some that are too far gone are kept for spares. In most cases they have required a little work to get them running again. Last week I was lucky enough to get a Pioneer PL-12D turntable from freecycle. The lady who offered it, said that she in turn had received it from freecycle , and had replaced the belt but couldn't get on with the springiness of it, and had got a modern USB turntable. I have previously worked on one of these decks, and know what she means about the suspension system used. While this blog is specifically about this particular model of deck, many of the concepts are similar to others from this vintage. Many Japanese belt drive decks throughout the  1970's shared very similar construction, so this m...

Replacing MR16 Halogen bulbs with LED equivalents

If you have read my other blogs about GU10 mains voltage halogen lighting, you will know that I have mostly replaced these bulbs with LED equivalents. they cost more, but last longer, are cooler and use a fraction of the energy. a halogen bulb is typically either 35 or 50 watts. most LED bulbs are 3 watts. While the bulbs in my house are predominantly GU10 mains halogens, I do have a couple of MR16 bulbs. These are a different type of halogen that operate from a 12volt supply. I should mention at this point that I don't have any dimmer switches in my house. Now some mains voltage GU10 LED bulbs are dimable (always check first). MR16 bulbs have two pin connectors rather than the lugs found on GU10 bulbs. GU10's use a push and twist method of connecting to the socket. the MR16 simply push in place with metal clips also gripping the edge of the bin base. They use a separate power supply , either a transformer (old type ) or a switch mode power supply(newer) to convert 250v ...