Skip to main content

Trio Kenwood KD-1033 turntable main bearing service

  One of my first posts in this blog was regarding the servicing of the Pioneer PL12D turntable, and that has proven to be the most popular by a significant margin. The Pioneer PL12D had its competitors, and probably the most popular alternative was the Trio Kenwood KD-1033 turntable. I use both names (Trio and Kenwood) as the company operated under different names in different markets. In the UK they were Trio, possibly because the brand Kenwood was most famous here for food blenders. 95% of a KD-1033 is similar to  Pioneer PL12D, and servicing them is very much the same process. Both are belt drive , have an AC synchronous motor,  mechanical speed change , a main bearing, sprung top deck and rubber motor mounts. the KD-1033 uses a different type of anti skate mechanism, employing a thread and weight. The plinth is shallower with an internal cross brace. One aspect that is different is the design of the main bearing, and servicing it is a little harder than a PL12D. The ...

Reducing your electricity bills

I have been monitoring my electricity consumptions for a number of years on the basis that, in order to reduce it, i need to understand it first, i.e. where does it all go ?

Initially I took a reading from the meter once a week , then subtracted the past reading from the current reading to get the weekly usage. I did this in a spreadsheet. Now I use The imeasure which is a web site run by Oxford University. It does this and many more things, including gas consumption and factoring in weather conditions. I also monitor my real  time using a current cost device, monitoring the whole house, plus a couple of individual appliance monitors (IAM) which provide me data about individual appliances. I can publish this data to the Internet via the current cost NetSmart unit. All these methods give me a better idea of what I'm using and where it's going.

I should explain that my household uses gas central heating as the primary source of heat and hot water. My weekly electricity usage averages 20 units a day, lower in summer , higher in winter. That is too high, I want to reduce it, but most importantly I do understand where it is going. The other thing I have come to understand is that there is no magic gadget or solution to save electricity. Many of the energy saving gadgets only affect the devices which already probably use the least electricity .




I find it useful to break down the electrical demands in my house into 3 broad groups in descending order of their. Consumption of electricity:




  1. Things that make things hot.
  2. Things that make things move
  3. Everything else
Things that make things hot means devices that have a primary function to heat, and  includes  immersion heaters, cookers, kettles, washing machines , dishwashers, hair dryers, microwave ovens. All these units , and others, consume the most amount of electricity in a typical household. Some devices consume a lot but for a short period of time (kettles, microwaves), most are thermostatically controlled , for example an electric oven , once up to temperature regulates the temperature through the thermostat. It does not continuously use large amounts of electricity, rather it's use is regulated . A washing machine heats water internally for part of the cycle, similarly a dish washer does the same.


Things that make things move are devices with motors, pumps or compressors including vacuum cleaners, mowers, fridges, freezers, air conditioning units, sewing machines, blenders etc


Everything else includes, TVs, audio, computers, mobile phones, games consoles.


The biggest savings to be had are by changing the way you use the items in 1. , and once that is done , look at group 2, finally group 3.


Of course many items in the house are in more than one group. 


A washing machine , has a heating element (group 1) and a motor to turn the drum (group 2) and a pump (group 2) and some electronics to manage the programmes (group 3). These composite devices go in the highest group they include I.e. group 1 in the example above.


As with all rules there are a couple of caveats :


1) somethings get hot as a by product of something else. For example fridges and computers generate waste heat, but it is not their primary function and I do not include them in 1. 


2) conventional filament lighting, while primarily designed to create light, actually creates a great deal more heat. Most of the energy consumed is generating heat rather than light. In my model filament lighting goes in group 1


So how does this help ?


Well when considering any energy saving measure , I look to the groups and use this to decide where to spend the money. With heating items it's a question of considering programmes that use lower temperatures for shorter periods, Eco programmes etc. A tumble drier is a very heavy user of electricity. Cutting these out by hanging clothes on racks or on the line could save a lot of electricity - afterall , its in category 1 & 2 !

When considering replacing goods, paying some extra for more control in this area may be worth it. Change filament lighting to low energy CFL or LED equivalents.


Similarly in group 2. Rather than buy a gadget that , say, defeats standby mode, (group 3) It might be better  to save that money and use it toward newer more efficient fridge ( group 2 )


Finally measure that save energy in group 3 are only really worth considering when you believe that groups 1 and 2 are as efficient as you can make them .

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Restoring a Pioneer PL-12D Turntable

 I got back into vinyl records about 18 months ago, and have collected a few hundred albums, mostly second hand. I have a number of turntables (NAD 5120, Ariston QDeck, Pioneer PL12D ) which I got also second hand. I keep a few, some end up passed onto friends, some that are too far gone are kept for spares. In most cases they have required a little work to get them running again. Last week I was lucky enough to get a Pioneer PL-12D turntable from freecycle. The lady who offered it, said that she in turn had received it from freecycle , and had replaced the belt but couldn't get on with the springiness of it, and had got a modern USB turntable. I have previously worked on one of these decks, and know what she means about the suspension system used. While this blog is specifically about this particular model of deck, many of the concepts are similar to others from this vintage. Many Japanese belt drive decks throughout the  1970's shared very similar construction, so this m...

Bracing IKEA EXPEDIT or KALLAX cabinets for greater rigidity when used with a turntable

The inevitable problem, too many records. Turntable and amplifier on top Like many record collectors around the world, I have a number of IKEA cube cabinets from both their EXPEDIT (older) and KALLAX (newer) ranges. These are easy to make, cheap to buy and perfect for record storage. The system comes flat packed and uses bolts and dowels to hold the system together. If you follow the instructions  the system is strong and should not collapse. You can augment the joints with PVA wood glue for extra strength. My turntable sits on top of an EXPEDIT 2x4 cabinet, laid along the long side, with some felt feet to support it from the floor, and you can use KALLAX in the same way. It's been great but has two problems I wanted to address : 1) Because the system has no back panel, the records  can be pushed too far back. 2) While the structure is strong and fairly rigid, there was some lateral movement. With heavy equipment on top, I found that if I nudged or knocked either top side, thi...

Replacing MR16 Halogen bulbs with LED equivalents

If you have read my other blogs about GU10 mains voltage halogen lighting, you will know that I have mostly replaced these bulbs with LED equivalents. they cost more, but last longer, are cooler and use a fraction of the energy. a halogen bulb is typically either 35 or 50 watts. most LED bulbs are 3 watts. While the bulbs in my house are predominantly GU10 mains halogens, I do have a couple of MR16 bulbs. These are a different type of halogen that operate from a 12volt supply. I should mention at this point that I don't have any dimmer switches in my house. Now some mains voltage GU10 LED bulbs are dimable (always check first). MR16 bulbs have two pin connectors rather than the lugs found on GU10 bulbs. GU10's use a push and twist method of connecting to the socket. the MR16 simply push in place with metal clips also gripping the edge of the bin base. They use a separate power supply , either a transformer (old type ) or a switch mode power supply(newer) to convert 250v ...