Skip to main content

Trio Kenwood KD-1033 turntable main bearing service

  One of my first posts in this blog was regarding the servicing of the Pioneer PL12D turntable, and that has proven to be the most popular by a significant margin. The Pioneer PL12D had its competitors, and probably the most popular alternative was the Trio Kenwood KD-1033 turntable. I use both names (Trio and Kenwood) as the company operated under different names in different markets. In the UK they were Trio, possibly because the brand Kenwood was most famous here for food blenders. 95% of a KD-1033 is similar to  Pioneer PL12D, and servicing them is very much the same process. Both are belt drive , have an AC synchronous motor,  mechanical speed change , a main bearing, sprung top deck and rubber motor mounts. the KD-1033 uses a different type of anti skate mechanism, employing a thread and weight. The plinth is shallower with an internal cross brace. One aspect that is different is the design of the main bearing, and servicing it is a little harder than a PL12D. The Pioneer main b

Fixing a Karcher pressure cleaner that no longer dispenses detergent




I decided to clean some bikes during this unprecedented period of isolation, and got out a Karcher pressure cleaner we purchased some years ago for cleaning our decking. We have had it for 4 years, it works fine and creates a powerful spray which blasts the dirt off, and has a mode which dispenses detergent at a lower pressure first to fully soap the item, be it car or bike or garden furniture etc.

However while the pressure hose worked fine I could not get any detergent to dispense. I checked the bottle which inverts onto a connector with a rubber seal. All appeared fine.

I looked online via google and  remembered that the detergent only dispenses when the nozzle dial on the gun part is turned down to the 'Mix' setting. However I tried this and it made no difference.


There are clear pipes which deliver the detergent from the bottle dispenser via a dial which sets the amount. I could see no movement through these pipes

I decided to open the Karcher which involved first disconnecting the Kercher from both the Mains electricity and from the water .  You will need a Phillips screwdriver, a T10 torx screwdriver and a tray to collect the parts.

WARNING: Only attempt this if you are capable with electrical items and dismantling things in an orderly and careful fashion. If in doubt get a qualified repairer to undertake this

Then removing  two phillips screws from where the main handle fixes to the body. The green hose from the main body unclips from the drum winder mechanism by remove a clip around the neck from the handle


Then removing 8 T10 torx screws that secure the black and yellow sections of the main shell. Please use the correct driver , you dont want to foul the heads

Carefully separate the two halves of the case. Its heavy and care is needed but you should be able to see the main pump

There are two internal clear pipes to pump detergent. I pulled the hoses from their connectors and examined  them . I noticed that they use a form of stent a black plastic semi-plug. I think these are to either reduce the flow of detergent and maybe also prevent kinking of the pipes.

However I also noticed that old detergent had turned to a kind of jelly in the pipes. This was the problem, I washed all the pipes in warm soapy water , squeezed out the stents and the solidified detergent so that I could run warm water through the pipes. I then put the stents back and then reconnected the pipes to the pump as before. It's a good idea to take a few pictures as you go, your machine may differ






Once reassembled the detergent flowed freely through the pipes and machine works fine again.

I think the issue is that the Karcher had had little use for 12-18 months including hot and cold weather where it had been stored in an outside shed. Residual detergent had remained in the pipes and solidified. if you believe you will be storing it for a while it may be good to disconnect the detergent bottle and run the machine until all detergent has been pumped through. In fairness it may suggest this in the documentation, I just couldnt find what I'd done with it

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Restoring a Pioneer PL-12D Turntable

 I got back into vinyl records about 18 months ago, and have collected a few hundred albums, mostly second hand. I have a number of turntables (NAD 5120, Ariston QDeck, Pioneer PL12D ) which I got also second hand. I keep a few, some end up passed onto friends, some that are too far gone are kept for spares. In most cases they have required a little work to get them running again. Last week I was lucky enough to get a Pioneer PL-12D turntable from freecycle. The lady who offered it, said that she in turn had received it from freecycle , and had replaced the belt but couldn't get on with the springiness of it, and had got a modern USB turntable. I have previously worked on one of these decks, and know what she means about the suspension system used. While this blog is specifically about this particular model of deck, many of the concepts are similar to others from this vintage. Many Japanese belt drive decks throughout the  1970's shared very similar construction, so this ma

Bracing IKEA EXPEDIT or KALLAX cabinets for greater rigidity when used with a turntable

The inevitable problem, too many records. Turntable and amplifier on top Like many record collectors around the world, I have a number of IKEA cube cabinets from both their EXPEDIT (older) and KALLAX (newer) ranges. These are easy to make, cheap to buy and perfect for record storage. The system comes flat packed and uses bolts and dowels to hold the system together. If you follow the instructions  the system is strong and should not collapse. You can augment the joints with PVA wood glue for extra strength. My turntable sits on top of an EXPEDIT 2x4 cabinet, laid along the long side, with some felt feet to support it from the floor, and you can use KALLAX in the same way. It's been great but has two problems I wanted to address : 1) Because the system has no back panel, the records  can be pushed too far back. 2) While the structure is strong and fairly rigid, there was some lateral movement. With heavy equipment on top, I found that if I nudged or knocked either top side, this all

Replacing MR16 Halogen bulbs with LED equivalents

If you have read my other blogs about GU10 mains voltage halogen lighting, you will know that I have mostly replaced these bulbs with LED equivalents. they cost more, but last longer, are cooler and use a fraction of the energy. a halogen bulb is typically either 35 or 50 watts. most LED bulbs are 3 watts. While the bulbs in my house are predominantly GU10 mains halogens, I do have a couple of MR16 bulbs. These are a different type of halogen that operate from a 12volt supply. I should mention at this point that I don't have any dimmer switches in my house. Now some mains voltage GU10 LED bulbs are dimable (always check first). MR16 bulbs have two pin connectors rather than the lugs found on GU10 bulbs. GU10's use a push and twist method of connecting to the socket. the MR16 simply push in place with metal clips also gripping the edge of the bin base. They use a separate power supply , either a transformer (old type ) or a switch mode power supply(newer) to convert 250v